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Posted

The plans for a the bowsprit on the weekender call for it to be 2-1/2" square. Now If got an octagonally shaped piece of clear Doug Fir that is 2-1/2". I was thinking about rounding this off for the bowsprit. Can anyone tell me why this wouldn't work.

Chad


Posted

Chad, That should work just fine. Round it off or leave it octagnal. Is it one piece or a lamination. One piece could warp in the future, but it would be easy to make a new one.

Posted

Its a solid piece of clear Doug Fir. It was a tent pole for an US Army GP Medium tent. I would think if it was going to warp it would have by now. The only issue that I see with it being rounded is having to make the partner (?) where it ties to the deck match the profile of the bowsprit.

Chad

Posted

I'd leave it octagonal except for the leading end which I would round for about 7" and then just take a hair off either side at the aft end so it will fit between the bitts. They should be 2-1/4" apart, right?

My bowsprit is larger but it's longer, too. It is round back to where the stem of the boat starts. From there it has a flat bottom and is round ed on the sides and top. There's a tenon cut to fit between the bitts.

Posted

Charlie...

I'm just wondering..it "seems" that a solid bowsprit would be a heck of a lot easier to cut/build/sand etc. Is it just a matter of personal craftmanship and needs that you bother (with the birdsmouth technique)? or is there a reason for this I am missing. The weight can't be that different on this item is it? Please do not get me wrong, your work is excellent and greatly appreciated to see, I'm just asking, theory-wise (if thats a word)... I can understand it on larger items (masts)....

Just wondering...

Bill

ps. Having spent many nights in a "GP Medium" , wouldn't it be great to lug home the ridge pole for a bowsprit...I'd probably find use for some of that heavy canvas too...

Posted

Okay, sounds like I should leave it octagonal. I may go ahead and round it every where but the bits.

Charlie, yours looks great. .

Bill, most of the ridge beam on a GP medium is done up in short sections with metal sleaves. I think the longest part is about 6' +/-. Got some of them also.

Chad

Posted

Chad, you might want to leave the portion of the bowsprit where it lays on the stem octagonal so that there are two flat surfaces mating. It will make for easier mounting and a stronger join between the two.

Posted

:D Yeah- a solid one should take a lot less time I guess. I was playing with birds mouth when I did that.

From my notes I find that it took me 3 working hours to build the bowsprit, from the time I picked up the wood to cut it to length to the time I had it rounded and sanded smooth. I don't think that included boring the holes in the ends with a forstner bit and glueing in the dowel plugs and spacer where the sprit is bolted to the boat.

Eight siding would be a traditional look also by the way.

I'm planning to further explore the Birds-mouth technique when I have some extra time. There are many possibilities there, including oar and paddle shafts, etc. It's even relatively easy to do a double taper.

Posted

Keep in mind: The original Weekender plans called for 2" full round handrail material for the mast and bowsprit. We went to the heavier style for looks and as the handrail stock doesn't give much safety factor.

I'm sure the solid tent pole will work great. If it doesn't, make a new bowsprit later!

Mike

Posted

Thanks Mike. The question had come up at the Wooden Boat forum about the loss of strength from a 2-1/2 square to a 2-1/2" round and you have answered that question.

Chad

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