Fairing Questions

[TexasPhil]

I started fairing the outside curves on the deck and hull bottom, where the sides meet.

After going through 3 belts on the belt sander in the area between the stem and the first bulkhead, I have realized that this might not be the best way to accomplish it. This area is about 85% complete, but only represents a 3 foot length.

I went to the big orange store to get a power planer, but at $175, I am not sure if I want to purchase such a tool and abuse it. I have noticed that I am sanding down some of the screws in the stringers.

So, I also looked at grinders, as I recall someone used one for this purpose and built a jig to keep it lined up with the other stringer. The're not bad, starting at $50. But I I noticed that they only have pads for "metal" and "masonry"

So, I wondered over to the Air Tools, since I just purchased a compressor. The only thing I could find there was an orbital sander with a 6" pad. This was angled, like the grinders. The pad is large enough to fair well.. I think.

So, my questions: What have you found to be the best solution for fairing the area in question? Do you have any tips?

One of the concerns I have is getting both stringers parallel. I am checking it with the edge (3/4") of a a straight board. It makes it vary apparent where to sand and to adjust the angle, but so far I have been doing that, "by hand".

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Ah the fun begins.

I find that a 50 grit belt on the belt sander works just fine. It removes material quickly and leaves a good contact surface. Anythng finer than that in my mind just takes too long and you are not looking for a fine finish here but a good fair contact surfacr.

I also have a die grinder that I use for knocking off screw tips and metal surfaces.

As I recall it took me about 12 hours or more with the sander to get ready to place the side panels. It is slow work. Using an extension guide to set the parallels on the sander (a stick bolted to the side extending back 3 feet made it go quicker). But I had jsut about finished one side before that dawned on me.

Don't get to paranoid about being perfect, you just need good contact area. If you overwork it the odds are that you will create a wavy edge rather than a fair curve.

[Frank Hagan]

I used a surform shaper after destroying my old belt sander. Didn't want to buy a new one "just for the stringers" (I ended up buying one later on and have used it extensively since then!)

It took three hours for the starboard side, then two hours for the port. The first 30" of the starboard side took the longest; then I got the hang of using the surform. You get into a kind of rhythm with a hand tool that you don't with the power tools. The lack of dust from the surform was a definate plus too. The surform I used was the one that's about a foot long; it also came in handy for trimming up rough edges on the glass and epoxy.

Warning: Musings about cheap tools!

Power planers are fantastic for hogging things down to a certain level. They are nothing like a hand plane, which can do fine work. I bought a Hatachi on sale for $89, and then saw its virtual twin (with orange plastic instead of green) at Harbor Freight tools:

Click Here for Harbor Freight's page on this one.

Its normally about $50, but I have seen it on sale for as low as $29.

For tools I know I'm going to use a lot, I buy pretty good, medium quality tools. Brands like Porter Cable, Jet, Delta, etc. I'm not afraid to experiment with cheap tools for ones I don't think I'm going to use a lot ... and this power plane is an example of that. Its lasted three years now; when it finally dies, I'll probably buy a better one because I do like it.

My cheap Skillsaw only lasted 25 years before the switch broke. The new one I bought cost an amount equal to about 2 weeks of my salary "back then". Will it last 25 years? Probably not.

[P Doug (WA)]

Gee, in the video it didn't take anytime to do the fairing before putting the sides on. What happened? :shock:

[Barry Pyeatt]

How many times can you say, "Well, that isn't going to take that long at all!" or, "That isn't going to be so bad!"

[TexasPhil]

I Got some more belts for the belt sander... I think the other ones were not very good. Both made by Norton, I guess QA was distracted that day.

Anywhat.... Where I went through 3 belts in a 3 foot section, and was only 85% complete, I am now 100% on about 10 or 12 feet. Both sides, top and bottom between the stem and the first bulkhead. I am still on the first belt.

Thanks for your help and suggestions... I think I will try out one of the power planers, when they go on sale next. $30 is hard to pass up. Probably get a couple extra blades. But gotta wait for the sale.

In the mean time, the belt sander seems to be doing a good job, now. I did find that it helps to go perpendicular to the stringers to get "close", then go parallel to fair it out. Seems to work well. My orbital sander does OK on the areas that the belt sander cant reach.

Thanks again

[Barry Pyeatt]

I got a factory reconditioned Makita and love it. Full warranty and other than a little ding or two on the casing, it looks and performs like new. I paid $49 for it at a tool liquidation store in Columbus. Get several extra blades if you are working on other than new wood. They will get dinged quickly and one touch on a screw or nail and they are gone. My dad used to sharpen them for me, but I don't have the patience to do that. I'll send them out instead.

[High C]

I used a handheld power plane to taper and round my mast. It starts out square at the base. Then above the tabernacle it transitions to 8 sides, then gradually to full round (with 36 grit sandpaper by hand) as it gets near the top. It took about a half hour. That would've been a ton of work with a hand plane. Looks cool. 8)