DGW Posted October 20, 2017 Posted October 20, 2017 Hi to you all from Oz. I am half way through lashing the frame of my Shad and have found myself thinking ahead and needing some advice. 1. I will be skinning my Shad with Jeff's 8oz polyethylene and have in mind to finish it with Cabot's turps based marine grade polyurethane gloss finish. I figure that if I get sick of the translucent finish I will be able to later coat it with an opaque finish. Your thoughts about this approach would be appreciated. 2. I am familiar with bungy cord but I want to use the Inuit type of deck tie-down on my Shad, the type where two cords run across the deck and are tightened by sliding a toggle towards the outside (I presume). I have no knowledge of the design of these and so I am looking for suggestions on diameter of the cord, distance apart of the two lines, distance apart of the holes in the toggles, amount of initial slack you leave in the lines, and anything else you think I should understand. 3. I paddle mostly on salt water and am in the habit of washing my other kayaks (one plastic, one fibreglass, one Kevlar) with fresh water at the finish of each paddle. The Shad is my first SOF - do I wash it in fresh water or leave it salty? 4. Has anyone undertaken a successful temporary repair of their SOF by applying duct tape to the inside and to the outside of a tear in the skin? 5. Most other members of the forum have a photo of themselves next to their contribution to discussions. I think I should have a photo but I can't see how I do that. Cheers, Denis Quote
Kudzu Posted October 20, 2017 Posted October 20, 2017 1. Not found anything that will not stick to Polyester (not polyethene BTW). So it should adhere but the best thing is just test it on some scrap first and make sure there is not issues. I doubt there will be though. 2. I think there are photos in the manual of this. I have used nylon cord and made toggles from scrap wood in the shop. There is not real secret, it's just a little trial and error getting the cord lengths correct. 3. Not sure that it matters but when I go the coast I rinse mine at the end of the week. 4. Does stuffing a plastic bag in the hole count?? It worked too. Problem with tape is you need to get the area dry to apply it but it is the standard for repairs. But odds are great you will never need it. If you search on here I don't think you will find anyone that has holed a boat. There have been a couple that beached repeatedly and ground a hole in the bow, but I can't remember anyone actually putting a hole in the boat from hitting anything. I think I am the only one that has done that? 5. Don't remember but I am pretty sure you go into your Profile Settings. Quote
andy00 Posted October 20, 2017 Posted October 20, 2017 Denis: Item 2: Pics of the deck rigging on my Ravenswood are attached. Bow rigging consists of 3/16" polypropylene cord in the center portion, which I use to hold my wood Greenland paddle perpendicular to the boat while attaching my spray skirt. Outer portions are 1/4" bungee, used to stow bilge pump, water bottle, etc. Spacing of lines is 6" based on accomodating the width of the paddle. All rigging is attached with nylon strap and stainless steel screws and finish washers. Stern rigging is 3/16" poly with wood sliders, which are used to stow a paddle float and to hold the paddle for self rescue. Line spacing is 6" and holes in the slider are at 4". Slack is adjusted by attaching the ends of line with a bowline and two half hitches. For a traditional approach to deck rigging, see Building the Greenland Kayak by Chris Cunningham. Chris uses leather, wood, and caribou antler. Item 3: Salt water affects metals, but has little or no effect on plastic or wood. In fact, salt prevents wood rot. I paddle the Hudson River where it is salty (actually an estuary, not a river). I notice that during humid weather the salt on the boat while it is stored in the garage does take water from the air and make the surface damp. I rinse the boat inside and out once in a while. Item 4: Never had need for repair. Fair winds, Andy Quote
ttkayaker Posted October 20, 2017 Posted October 20, 2017 Here is a photo of my leather rigging. I used 5/16" strips cut from a latigo strap sold by Tanty Leather. For toggles I used Deer antlers cut and drilled. I finished my kayak so it would be transparent, then a year later I painted it white. 1 Quote
DGW Posted October 22, 2017 Author Posted October 22, 2017 Many thanks Jeff, Andy and ttkayaker for your advice supported by great photos. I have managed to add a dodgy photo to my profile but I will see if I am able to improve on it. The photo shows me working on the Shad in my garage. You will notice that there is a door at the rear that was a necessary addition to the garage prior to the build so as to allow about 100 mm (4") of the stern of Shad to stick out. Cheers, Denis Quote
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