Richard Whitney CS#70

Stuck working at the computer rather then in the garage (boatshed as it is referred to by the rest of the family). Someone told me about a web site (www.wordle.net) where you put in text and based on frequency of words it draws a word cloud. I took the text from the description of Lapwing on Graham's site and words from Tom's original description of what he was looking for from the design and it produced the image below. Lapwing 2.tiff

The one thing I learned (having anchored my CS17 in waist deep water - when I returned it was way over my head with the tide having come in) is that when you are a bit tired and the water is very cold unless you have a rope loop or a ladder to help you it can be very difficult to get back into the boat. Each try saps more energy - not a good look. I now always have a rope loop attached to the boat that I can easily reach from when in the water next to the boat.

Welcome Bill I built CS12 #70 and am currently building Lapwing #4 - once you get started you get addicted. Will keep an eye out for any questions. I found the forum a great source of information and support. Often doing a search turns up some good information.

Looking fantastic John. Have you done much filling of the strake joins (fillets)? What sort of fibreglassing have you done around the bow? I have had other things going on. Have No. 5 cut out and ready to go. Looks like they are going to fit OK. I have also been cutting some strips to laminate up a tiller.

Hi Gary I built and sailed a CS 17 for about three years (currently building a Lapwing). Like Dale I changed over from sleeve sails to sail track for the reefing (cheaper to do it right first time) I have sailed with one mast in the third mast step, been out under full sail both with and without outboard (which I always left on the stern - just have to watch out for the mizzen sheet getting caught) and left the sails and masts on shore and headed out with the outboard to go fishing. It is a very versatile boat. Like some others I went for the 17 vs 20 because it is a bit easier to rig and launch single hand. You can not go wrong with one of these boats.

Hi Corky I am part way through building a Lapwing. If you search 'Lapwing 4' and look at page 2 and 3 you will see some pictures of mast. Also if you look at John's photo (Lapwing 5) and Tom's who built the original (Lapwing) - there is useful information. Having done masts for both a CS17 and Lapwing the key thing is getting as close as you can to the right alloy and thickness of tubing for the bottom two sections. If you get stuck you can order from Graham. Also worth touching base with Ray who is in Maine http://www.greatfallsboatworks.com/contact/

Thanks Tom - thats what mine look like too - that is reassuring. I will spread the joins around when I get to the last three strakes.

Just interested to get some comments. I am building a Lapwing which calls for 8 strakes each side. Most of the strakes are involving one scarf of two pieces 8 ft each. This means that all the joins are in roughly the same area - midships. Is this a problem and if so should I be making some of the strakes in thirds to spread the area where the scarfs are landing. I imagine that if basically the scarfs are as strong as the ply it should be OK. Comments appreciated.

Well Done John!!

Finally have the glue drying on Strake 4. This one required 'custom fitting'. I think the next one should go more easily (I hope).

Hope you all have a great weekend - and there is a good wind to allow the sail boats to do their thing. Looking forward to seeing some photos.

If anyone asked you can say you went 8 rounds (one for each strake) with a Lapwing. I might hunt out one of those ice hockey goalie masks before I get to that bit. I am just redoing Strake four. I assume with your spiling truss you are laying one of the battens sitting on top of the previous strake (overlapping 3/4 inch). For what I am learning (by eating ply) is that will give you a more realistic shape them just laying a single batten against each bulkhead - but not contacting the edge of the previous strake. Keep up the good work. As it is warming up here and feeling like early summer - it must be cooling down up there - and taking awhile for epoxy to cure. It will feel good to have met your target of being planked up before winter kicks in (project management skills)

Thanks for the idea Dale. I have a sheet of cheap thin ply - I will try it out for the strake I am stuck on.

Thanks Tom I am going back on checking everything on strake 4 measurement. Looking at what I have cut out - both don't quite fit - so the difference may not be as big as I thought. String line still looks pretty good. I have remeasured and think I have figured out what I have done wrong. I had my spiling batten sitting flush on each bulkhead allowing it to form a natural curve. Doing this does not allow for the 'extra' shape that results from one edge of the new stake needing to be defined by the existing curve of the previous one it will be attached to. When I allow my spiling batten to lay along the 3/4 in overlap on the previous strake and pull the measurements off that way I get a different result that I think will be closer to what it should be. I will look carefully before wasting more wood. Would I be best to make each strake to fit the side they are on - even if they are a little different in shape?

Help - looking for some suggestions. I have cut two mirror image strakes for strake 4. One fits well - the other doesn't. Looks like for some reason I am getting some small differences setting in one either side of the boat. On one side I have to twist and get what I think people are referring to as 'edge set'- on that one side (not the one I took measurements off) I have to bend the stem side of the strake up a bit to get it to fit. This shift the strake at the mid section so it has 1 1/4 inch overlap on strake 3 rather then 3/4 in. Should I just make strakes a different shape on each side - or will this just be compounding the problem. Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks John, Tom and Graham for clarifying that bit before I got to it. I am just heading down to the garage to prepare the lands and gains for strake 4

Go John! I have No. 4 cut and nearly ready to glue up (this weekend). Let me know the details on how you end up doing the sheer strake. Do you glue up the inner gunwale first and then glue the strake to it or the other way around? Tom - you might have a comment here if you are reading this. Obviously on this last strake both sides need to be as fair as possible.

Thanks Lance I am doing the measurements one at a time. I am also overlapping the batten I am using on the previous strake about the middle of the boat to help get the 'curve' as accurate as possible. So far other then the tight twist on strake one I have not had to force anything into position too much.

Didn't win Loto again this year - so I will have to send my apologies. Would love to make it some year. We might have to start a OZ/NZ Messabout - maybe 2010 at Lord Howe Island.

I have completed strake 3 (John T and his boys are pulling away from me like a Southern Skimmer on a broad reach). Good to do the learning on the strakes that will be under the boat. Now I am 'turning the corner' I will need to be tidier on my glueing etc. So far the 'spiling stick' method where I am pulling off the measurements for the strake shapes base on a measurement at the transom, rear, mid and forward bulkheads and the stem seems to be working out well. On to No. 4 (half way is in sight)

John - you are pulling away from me like a Southern Skimmer on a broad reach!! Would you sons like to skip winter and come down to work for 'Team New Zealand'. Any hints or tips for strakes 4, 5, or 6. I have just finished glueing up No. 3.

Looking good John - looks like you will be all planked up before the cold sets in.

Finally got up the nerve to cut out stake 3 - fits well. I just need to plane the land and cut the gain to be ready to glue them on. The spiling stick method worked well enough to give me confidence to move onto the next one.

Well done John - I have just scarfed up panels for strake 3

Hi John Do I see the strake reversing the curve a bit at the stem. If you get a chance to take a photo from the stem end that would be useful. Good to see this method in action.