Kennneee

Good advice! I will try that technique on the next boat. Better get another bottle to have on hand. Well, maybe not. This is the last boat I will ever build. Just like the last three.

Could that have anything to do with the design? How did you do the glue up? Syringe?

Hi Guys- Got the last plank on Lula this week. I haven’t been able to get long days in so progress has been slower than expected. The kit is a great time saver. The accuracy is really amazing to me. Alan thought it could be planked in a day but that would have to be done by someone more talented the me. I tried several techniques to streamline the process and by last one I think I got a good rhythm. Filling the laps with epoxy can done a number of different ways. Slathering both planks before assembly, using a syringe after assembly or a combination of both. In any case, it can get a bit messy and more time consuming than I imagined. I tried staples, screws, and strapping tape to hold the planks in place. The best solution seemed to be using plywood pads and screws. The planks are quite thin so the screws have to be fine tuned to get the correct pressure. The strapping tape works well to hold the end of the plank to the transom while the epoxy kicks. The end result is a beautiful hull. Cutting the gains in the bow turned out to be a simple operation and I was able to get them done on under 10 minutes each. I don’t have my rebate plane here in San Diego so I simply put the bottom plank in place temporarily, used it as a guide for my pull saw to score the plank above. Removed to bottom plank and cheated with my Festool RO90 detail sander to do most of the work. I then use a quality rasp to finish it off. Worked great. Murray made a really cool jig to cut the gains with his router. My method is a bit more Neanderthal. Alan indicated that future kits may have the gains pre-cut. Now I am on to fileting the seams and doing some fairing, sanding, etc. I had to have a bit of a dram to celebrate the last plank. Carter, HighDesert, visited me on Salt Spring a few years ago and brought a bottle of Rye Whisky when he came. Carter, this is not the same bottle. The other evaporated.

I have used Express Air which is located at the Victoria airport for importing things into Canada. They have a terminal in Blaine, Washington to receive the item then they truck/ferry it to Victoria. You go to the airport and walk the paper work through customs. They are quite reasonable cost wise. Last year I imported a vintage motorcycle in a crate and they charged me $50. I think I got a “good customer” deal on that but using this service has saved me a lot of money over the years.

Where in Canada are you located?

Mike- Thanks for the tip on the Microwave. I have never owned one if you can believe that. I am still back in the middle of the 20th century. Don’t even have a leisure suit yet! This place in SD has one so I might try that trick. How does epoxy go with Pop Tarts? Always appreciate the input from people that are in the know! Ken

The 575lb crate arrived this week here in San Diego. A lot of strange looking parts that will someday be a boat. Not quite as easy as adding water and stirring but certainly a lot of work saved with so many pieces of plywood already cut perfectly to size. Alan sent a preliminary video showing me the 3D modelling he and Graham have done to facilitate the building of this new kit. Looks like black magic to me but it certainly seems to work. Alan will have a final video and the rest of the plans to go with the kit done shortly if anyone out there is thinking of a Lapwing kit. I unpacked the crate and set up the building jig in about an hour. I used some of the crating parts to build a glueing table for the cockpit sides and the planks which are joined together with finger style joints. Even though the joints are cut very precisely, it is important to have measurements where the ends and center of the planks are in relation to each other. A small bit of misalignment when doing the glue-up could lead to problems down the line. I have a couple of the planks done but am stymied waiting for the epoxy to kick since I can only do one set at a time in the space I have to work. Fast hardener would be the way to go on this for me but my kit came with the slow. For more patient builders the slow hardener might be better since it gives more open time. I usually only use slow when doing cloth lay-ups. Of course it depends what the climate is like where you are doing your build. Surprisingly it has been a bit cool her in San Diego the last week or so only one set per day. Forced me to go out paddling yesterday and a bike ride today. At this rate I will be much fitter but the Lula will come together a bit slower. A reasonable trade-off.

I have no interest in getting into an argument over which epoxy is better or wether you drive a Chevy or a Ford. I don’t footnote everything I share but like to believe it could have some value. Dave, I find your posts some of the most interesting and informative that I read here and wilI do say this will all due respect. I believe that this is a great place to share knowledge, opinions and to inspire. I can say for instance, that I never had System 3 Silver Tip blush and West System has blushed for me. Is that a big deal? You decide. Does mean it is the gosepel truth for all? Obviously there are many variables. To put out our personal experience is part of why where are sharing this space. Everybody should do their own research, but chiming in with what we have seen or heard gives us all food for thought. I would hate to have people hold back for fear that they may need a bit of course correction. As long as it doesn’t get personel or nasty, have at it. Partake at your own risk. For some more food for thought here is an old, well researched epoxy comparison. http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxresl.htm Ken

That is what I have understood as well.

Alan- Do you have any bracket or mounting set up for wood masts? I am sure I can come up with something that would work on my wooden Lapwing mast to fit one of these to it but don’t need to reinvent the wheel.

Dave and Steve- Your homework saves me a lot of time. I appreciate it. Dave, do you remember the make and model of your trailer? Ken

Looking forward to seeing it come together. Keep the pics and comments coming.

I have used all of the epoxies mentioned over the years. The only one of the above that I had a problem with was MAS. On one of my strip kayaks that was in the sun a lot the epoxy seemed to soften a bit and allow some creep in the strips. I think that is an unusual case so I wouldn’t completely discount using it for most applications. I migrated to System Three Silvertip eventually and it is a great product. Recently I started using BandB epoxy and it is a fine product and reasonably priced. For water clear, super light layups I will still use System 3 Silver Tip. For almost anything else I will use BandB epoxy. I will never go back to the 5:1 and 3:1 products because it is easier to mix a 2:1 batch when doing small batches. I use a scale and my brain has an easier time doing the math with a 2:1 mix. I have also read that the 5:1 mix is more likely to cause a allergic reaction. I can’t verify this but it is worth investigating.

Thanks Don.

Don and Steve- What model trailer did you order? Thanks.

Jay- She is a show stopper!!!!

Hi Guys- My Lapwing kit is getting refined and should be shipped here for me to assemble in the coming weeks. From what I see from Alan and Graham, this boat should jump out of the crate and assemble itself. Well not quite but it looks like they have come up with some creative ways to make this an easy build. Time to start thinking about a trailer for her. I would welcome any input on what to consider for this light weight 16’ boat. Bunks, rollers, tire size, etc. and any other details. Getting a trailer may take longer then building the boat with the supply chain drama we seem to be dealing with. Thanks in advance. Ken

It’s so cute and CLEVER!

Loaded the van with 2 surfskis, 2 inflatable paddle boards and a lot of tools for the trip south from wet and cold BC. Not to mention the 2 masts and sprits for the Lapwing as well as the centerboard. I have the tabernacle parts made but not glued together. I even threw in a folding rocking moaning chair I build some years back. With all of this stuff in the van Luanne had the nerve to want a bag of shoes included as well. What fun is that? Graham and Alan plan to have the parts cut and ready to ship to me in San Diego in the near future. With all of the floating toys I am bringing south I will have to discipline myself to actually do the work to create the next one (Lula). If past is prelude, I should have no trouble finding the desire to get going on the rest of the build. Here is a link to more pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wG9DSjkDfxqUCJUKA

Don- I don’t mind the aesthetics of it. The mast rotation is a price that, for me, will likely be worth it. Since I have cut the mast down to length for the tabernacle I had better like it. The die is cast. Ken

Dave- Any idea what damaged the epoxy? It almost looks like epoxy that has been damaged by UV but with 20 coats of varnish that is unlikely. I wonder if there was some contamination in the epoxy or on the surface of the transom. Does it appear to be lifting off of the wood? Strange. All that said, you are the only one that will really notice (except for anybody reading this post). Anybody that has brightwork on a boat has to be a bit of a masochist. The beauty of bright wood makes the sanest of men do silly things. I am going with a bright transom as well. Ken

Hi Don- Yep, nothing is without more than one way of doing it. I will report back in a couple of years since my masts have already been epoxied. I won’t remember unless the varnish fails early…. My understanding of the concept is that the epoxy stabilizes the wood somewhat and hence less stress on the varnish due to wood movement. Of course wood will always move but the epoxy decreases it. Can’t say I have done any real testing to speak with confidence. I have had good luck on at least a dozen strip kayaks. It is not exactly the same since it is varnish going over epoxy and fiberglass. Thanks for the compliment on the masts. Any other thoughts and opinions welcomed.

Dave- A few years back I had a chat with the owner of Bristol Finishes and he recommended epoxy under Bristol which is a 2 part finish. I used it a lot on my kayak builds and it held up well. I used Bristol on Rosie and the results were not as good. I didn’t apply epoxy under it and I think that was why. Bristol is a tough, hard finish but it is brittle and the epoxy helps with that issue. I know some other varnish manufacturers also recommend epoxy under varnish for more longevity. Certainly the epoxy companies do but they love to sell the stuff. https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/varnish-over-epoxy/ While on the subject, I removed all of the Bristol from my rub rails and tried Cetol teak and Clear. I was surprised how nice it looked over Sapelle. I always associated Cetol with a horrid orange color. It has been improved. Fast forward it is the end of the season and the plugs I put in all of the screw holes are getting dark discolouration indicating water intrusion. I might strip all of the Cetol off, coat with epoxy and then varnish. Not happy about that!

Had some time to work on the masts and got a couple of coats of epoxy on them. I made a crude “lathe” to be able to apply the epoxy evenly. Worked really well to roll and turn them as I went down the length. I glued some AYC scraps together for one of the sprits and have a length that is the correct dimensions for the second one. I am leaving BC in a 3 weeks to head south and should be able to have the masts, centreboard, sprits, tabernacle ready bring with me providing I get all of my other chores done.

Ted- Thanks for posting those pics. I guess there are at least 3 different ways to deal with the mast end of the sprits. A fork, a 7 degree bevel and a cheek block and the way you did it. I think the way you did it is the way I will go with mine. Ken