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inboil

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    sanford nc

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  1. Ken-- I knew they were closing Dorothea Dix,but didn't realize they were giving all the patients Lasers! Hope you switched from beer to brandy-yesterday was one of several days lately that began colder here than Dixfield Maine( somewhat north of Ray), although that turned back normal today. Wish that I got 1/10 the use and joy from my boats that you get with Old Yaller.
  2. Yah the hoophouse is probably best suited as a seasonal solution to the boat cover dilema.But here in central NC that's apretty long season. I noticed that Garry,Jim Stumpf,Tom and of course Norm had a short hoophouse discussion some time ago.But that seemed more as a boatbuilding shed which really pushes the envelope of hoophousedom(to the breaking point in Norm's case). I believe the concept to be variable enough for harsher climes,but those variations bring extra money and more time. When the real winds blow and that white crap falls from the sky my boats will find a hard shell .My little hoop has endured short bursts of 40 mph winds in severe t-storms and two bigtime hailstorms (quarter size hail and lots of trashed automobiles). That's all I ask of this structure. That and make my boat more easily accessible. Mine is made up of 1" plastic conduit (cheaper than schedule 40but perhaps not as good) on about 4' centers,laced on gables, 3 horizontal purlins of 5/4x2 leftover treated wood attached to hoops by conduit straps- held down with 1/4" line and a 12x20 silver tarp over top. Build time was less than a day. Head scratching time ( I believe some call this planning or maybe even thinking) was most of late winter. Interesting info: U of New Mexico hoophouse site bends 2" pipe and claims to be good for 50 mph and a whopping 8" of white crap. In my mind the skin is the limiting factor--- anybody knows a better semi-reasonable material please let me know. $75 did not include some junk I had lying around (wood, screws,chunks of 4x4) so if you don't have junk cost might be a tad more.
  3. I have been pleased with a hoop house I made for my Laughing Gull ( granted a much smaller boat than Core Sound at 16'x about 4'6'') . Cost about $75 for 8x6x20 open ended with silver tarp. Good air circulation, back right up to hook up trailer,hang oars from hoops,etc. Wish I had done a story and a half (longer hoops/same width) and hung my Birder from the hoops. Thought about it, but went minimal as first experiment in hoophousedom.
  4. oops- that's supposed to be january snot FREEZES in Louieston
  5. I found the WR LPU a little finicky to apply with hvlp( not the gravy like all water based laquers that I have used.)It dries faster than January snot in Louieston (that's pretty dadgum fast mistah), which will lead to a pebbly finish. The primer sprays pretty well, some orange peel which you sand out any way. You need a fairly fine tip and I had to reduce it considerably more than was recomended. Their sugestion to use an extra length of hose dunked in a bucket of ice would probably help( turbine produces hot air which dries paint even faster).I couldn't make my cheapskate alter ego buy that hose so I'm only guessing here. That said; the lack of toxicity and the hardness/durability of the finish will make WR LPU my choice again next time. Maybe I can hide the fancy-pants spray gun and try it Ray's hand-method. But then the gun might be lost in the ether along with some other "hidden" tools.
  6. Thanks for pleasant ride on a great boat with good people. (and a nut thrown in). Even in the light wind its obvious how well mannered the boat is. The rig would take a little getting used to, but it seems to have a lot of patience. Also seems that it would never be boring - always little things to master. Now if only I can convince myself that food and shelter come first- oh yeah that's Martha's job and she's good at it. Thanks again and just hollar if you 're in need of that ballast -- although it sounds like ballast won't be in short supply. My advantage is that I'm more flexible and sorrier than most of them ballasts out there.
  7. A few miles south of the chatham county line off 15/501. can be at vista point in twenty minutes. Feel free to call me off if I'm intruding. Might be a good opportunity to throw the Birder in the truck and take a chance on seeing your boat-- "work" isn't progressing much today anyway!
  8. this is probably too late,but what time is after work? Sure would love to watch / help in any way possible. I've seen Graham's boat in Beaufort, but that was before I really appreciated the extent of his sailing and designing skills.
  9. for what its worth- System three lpu is the only "marine finish" I have used, so I have nothing to compare it to. As with concrete,epoxy and most other goops I have a love/hate relationship. The end result is a film that is tougher than any in my experience. But getting there seems like a constant battle. Have only sprayed with hvlp, never rolled and tipped this product. Tip selection and correct thinning ( way more than recomended) seem very important. Their epoxy primer does sand well ( good thing cause that gets rid of my inevitible orange peel). Overspray and milder orange peel are my concerns with topcoat. If i used Ray's topcoat with clear gloss method my results would not look satisfactory to me. I have taken to using their satin clear coat on final topsides coat which hides a multitude of sins and makes ME happy with the results. Also reduces glare from the sun. What is intrinsically great about a gloss finish?? Old style varnishes and urethanes were much harder in gloss forms due to waxes etc added to satin forms, but i find no mention of less hardness in the lpu satin. I suppose the gloss will show off a job well done, and one day I may get there. Seems like,for the price, it ought to jump out of the can and perfectly onto the boat---- but even with my struggles I do keep using it. Keep in mind that i am a boatbuilding idiot( or perhaps an idiot trying to build boats )
  10. any opinions? on wet sanding spooge (technical term for any ooey-gooey material applied with gun or knife that always ends up on your shirt and pants--- in this case epoxy) Seems to cut well, no clog ,lasts forever and no dust.Must be a drawback besides not using a power tool. I have a nearly infinite supply(sleeve upon sleeve) and no place else to use it.
  11. b-2 weighs about 43 pounds--seemed like more. Also had to take it out without paint and very conservatively so as not to worry my lady/mate. Perfect first run. Finally something to pattern-- paddle-- might make 20 . There seems to be no attachment of seat to boat, or did I overlook something?
  12. 1-- my rant is really directed at the lack of time and energy to search out local small mills,see lumber through the drying process,then use it . Not practical. but possible. In the same vein as P Doug's comment. 2-- If you don't seal the end grain you ain't got much of an experiment. 3--although i do lament its scarcity, longleaf yellow pine is not what i was referring to. Even I don't go back that far. 4-- my experience is almost totally with the world of straight,square,plumb and level (and only occasionally wet) 5--for wood to rot it must be in the presence of both air and water( hence the value of wood reclaimed from river bottoms etc) . Exactly how impervious epoxy is to either i wish i knew. But i suspect the answer to be pretty damned impervious. 6-- I admire Ray's quest for a better product even though it means less for an already stingey bottom line. 5A-- I did things in my one previous boat which my woodworking experience told me not to (glueing long grain to cross grain- long, long miter butts in seat boards) which have so far not been a problem. And this was with cypress-- epoxy coated of course. OK? OK. o k
  13. Ah, good opening for wood rant#53--- First of all, its nearly impossible to generalize these days when talking about wood species and where to use them. Too little care is taken in the cutting, milling drying in most commercially available stuff. Just knock it down and maximize yield, then find away to grow it back faster. Wallyworld in wood-Big mac lumber.. Many bad experiences with cypress myself (mostly springing-- some vitually flew off a house I did and had to replace all). Never had any rot, but who cares. By the same token, have a cabinetmaker friend from Fla. who thinks its the greatest; says I've not gotten decent stuff. i do keep trying. I hate working with doug fir and haven't found any with less than 3/16 growth rings in years except what i've taken off 60's/70's houses. Somewhere I've had a minor rot issuebut its in the fog somewhere. I do keep trying. My own experience with Western red cedar is that its not as rot resistant as most people think. Better than some, but not even in the ballpark with juniper. It boils down to getting the best lumber available in your area (tight straight grain) And make sure the end grain has the peepee sealed out of it. If the epoxy doesn't do its job, then we're all pretty well screwed(at least as far as the longevity of our boats). I've always been partial to southern yellow pine,but for heavens sake here in NC most sold as SYP is Arkansas pine- all of ours probably goes to arkansas!!!
  14. second try(computer not happy) Idid put keel on mine. Started because I have embedded tracking issues from previous boat, but final decision was for bottom protection . If it was important for boats performance Grahame wouldn't make it optional.Not to mention Charlies test run assessment. If you must, use plywood straightedge to connect "football" end points. If you can't seem them then extend keel ends enough to establish two points to start from.
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