Jim Stumpf

Third season with the boat and I have never sailed her under mizzen alone in the 3rd mast position. Works very well, what a well behaved lady this design is. Noticed a slight loss of ability to point as high as cat-ketch rigged and found I was over sheeting and causing some weather helm. Dropping off the wind a bit slacking the sheet a bit and tweaking the centerboard and she balanced right out. The video was shot earlier in the day with winds between 18-20 with the boat sailing herself as I shot cell phone video. Later in days the wind was a pretty constant 20, average speed was just about 5.5 MPH and a couple of 6.5's in a puff. Not bad for the reduced sail and very little heel, never had to jump to the rail. Enjoy the video and don't hesitate to try the single sail set up in a blow. Jim http://youtu.be/tIVk7jEcTPE

Found this one for $100.00 added a new $120.00 axle with hubs added new tires and some misc parts from Harbor Freight like lights and tongue dolly wheel and a ship load of elbow grease. It has been 2 seasons and I am very happy. Looking at the pictures I realize that I have added a few more keel rollers and a winch that are not shown here. Hope that helps, Jim

I built a mast tube and epoxied it into the floor socket. It makes lining the mizzen up a snap and is strong as all get up.

Thought this one was pretty good also. Man will this boat move in a whisper of a breeze.

I spent 4 days at Pymatuning reservoir this weekend. A woman stopped as we were packing up and said she had taken some pictures. I just had to share this one right away. I hope you enjoy this Ohio fall afternoon. Jim

Looking at the picture: notice the arm with the throttle at the end (tiller arm). The arm is made to flip from the front or forward position to the aft and reverse position. For the motor to be operated in forward the tiller arm/throttle arm would be horizontal and facing into the cockpit with the motor oriented as it is in the picture, the prop is pushing water away from the hull and pushing the hull forward. For reverse the motor would be spun 180 degrees so the prop is pushing water under the hull or pulling the boat backwards, the tiller arm pivots so that it can always face the cockpit regardless of the motor facing forward or aft. The centrifugal clutch works as follows: At very low idle the clutch disengages and the prop does not spin giving you neutral as you increase throttle the clutch engages and the prop starts to move and then increases rpms as the throttle is increased. Hope that helps, Jim

You have to spin it around. It also has centrifugal clutch so no forward/neutral selector. But man is she light, everything at a cost.

Just mounted mine today. Here is a vid of ole Joe at the helm with the new Honda 2.3, about 1/8 throttle and cruising at a constant 4.4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=rx3tnCaRSCI New Honda on salvaged bracket, bracket needs clean up and paint/varnish

Hey Lennie, Not really clear as to what your problem is as stated but a few things to think about. If you are backing screws after using for clamping pressure sometimes they become glued in place by the epoxy, applying a little heat (soldering iron) will loosen the epoxy so that you can back the screw out. Be careful also as it is possible to break the screw while installing or removing, this will cause the head to spin and never move the shaft in or out, this can be a bugger when trying to remove clamp blocks. When screwing pieces together through your clamping blocks, pre-drill a hole that is slightly larger than the screw in the block so that the screw does not thread through the clamp block. If the screw threads through your clamp block and then threads through your work stock if there is any gap in between the two pieces the screw threads will keep the pieces form pulling up tight. Spring for a box of screws with a better head than your standard #2 phillips (drywall screw), use torques or square drive all readily available at your local big box store sold as decking or structural screws. Less breakage and less cam out of the heads. Back off the clutch on your driver, over driving short screws into your stringers will cause them to hog out the screw hole and cause spinning. Use a tapered pilot with counter sink for the screws that will stay in place. Trying to set a screw head without a proper counter sink will cause the screw to hog out the hole also. I have used Dewalt 18 v screw guns professionally for years and I am guessing that some fine tuning of your technique will yield better results. Hope this helps and good luck with your new build, Jim

Thanks Wes and Gordy. Hey Wes I have been following your builds since the honeymoon PC nice work to you also. Jim

My first ever youtube video, I hope that it works. Spent the day sailing out of Lorain Ohio. Wind was 10-12 pretty steady and wave 2-3 feet. Had a great day. This is my ole buddy Joe, he turned 74 this week and still singlehands his Ericson 25 on Lake Erie.

Thanks Paul, I like the double ended sheet idea. do you see any drawback to cleating the sheet directly to the sprit to help keep the cockpit free of another line. From the clew through the block then to a cleat a bit further forward on the sprit (almost like an outhaul arrangement) Jim

Hello all, I hope to rig my stay sail this weekend on my CS 17. I found a pretty good recap http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/7443-staysail-rigging/ but am looking for any additional advice or pictures. I am still a little fuzzy regarding the sheet to the mizzen sprit, is this revved through a block and held by hand or cleated to the sprit? How critical is the placement of the pad eyes forward for proper sail shape? Thanks, Jim

Good luck on your build. Here is what I did. My entire build is documented in the link. Hope this helps, Jim

I haven't weighed the kayak but I would guess it to be about 60 lbs or so with the floor and seat in. The canvas is what adds weight, I could have used a lighter weight synthetic but it would have not been the same kayak as the designer had designed. The rub rails add some structure as well as a cap for the fabric seams. Many SOF boats have a sewn seam the length of the deck, this is designed with the hull and deck fabrics lapping at the gunwale and then covered with the rubrail. Jim

Hey Mike, I am a bit shorter than you at 5'7 but scale in at about 215# I find my 15 footer (designed as a double in the 1940's) to be quite stable and I sit almost all the way aft. Megan has a 13 footer which feels a bit small to me. Very minor changes in the height of the seat make large changes in the stability of the boat. I sit in a kayak seat directly attached to the floor boards, tried sitting on a throwable float cushion and it was to high. Same kayak ,several years apart. Hope this helps.

I find that in heavy wind the mizzen will tell you right away if you are over sheeted. Try slacking the mizzen a bit and see if that helps. Jim

I am looking for a slick way to transport my rudder and leave it with the boat when stored. I have crutches for the mast and sprits, had the sails made with vertical battens so that I can leave the sails on the mast and have simplified everything as much as possible but still find myself looking for somewhere to carry the rudder assembly. Now I just wrap it in a movers blanket and shlep it around, not very elegant and I am bound to leave it somewhere some day. What works for you? Thanks, Jim

Hey Dave, The Lowes near my home carries rafter grade lumber in southern yellow pine which works really well. I am in a metro area with access to at least 3 other Lowes and none of the others carry it. If you are trekking to a far off store try calling to see if they have structural grade framing material in doug fir or southern yellow. Any old school lumber yard should have something suitable. The pic below is my CS 17 center board made from a 2*10*18 that I ripped up for all of my stringers and structural parts. Jim

Here in the midwest we see hem-fir which would be hard to work with. It is very brittle and does not hold fasteners. As a general contractor we frown when the stuff shows up on site because you can be sure that every time you nail a stud to a plate the bottom of the stud is going to break off in big shards. The hem fir shows up as 2*4 and other dimension construction grade lumber and is stamped as Hem-Fir. If it is the same stuff I would avoid it. Check with your local lumber yard for structural grade framing (like for long roof rafters) that tends to be fir, at least here in NE Ohio. If you have the ability to rip it you could buy 2*8 or some other rafter grade size then cut all of your frame parts and possibly even your gunwales, knees and other parts from the same stock. Jim

After hijacking Mikes post asking about skin materials I figured I should post my own thread. The boat is the BK 22 15 ft double touring kayak, designed in the late 40's by dutch designer P.W.Blanford. The hull is poplar stringers and marine ply frames with mahogany trim and merranti coamings. Megan also built a 13 footer (3 years ago) with cedar frames and trims. Joe and I built a pair of sister boats for the CABBS (www.cabbs.org) display at the MidAmerica boat show in 2003. After several years of great service I tore a hole in the bottom about 3 years ago while moving it on a canoe dolly and it has been sitting behind my garage in a storage tent ever since. With spring ahead of me and the Core Sound covered for the winter I decide to put the old girl back together. This morning I touched up paint around the stem bands and re-varnished some of the rub rail. An another hour of misc touch ups over the next day or two and she will be ready for service again. I am very pleased with the color scheme this time around, the circuit breaker green was OK on the original boat but I think these colors look very retro. I dreaded starting the project and almost cut the frame up but it turned into one of the most enjoyable projects I have worked on in awhile, easy to work on for only an hour or two and it was a small project without a long commitment of time and not at the last minute trying to meet some event or deadline. I look forward to enjoying her on the water again this spring. Link to the project on Picassa https://plus.google.com/photos/106668203767680037177/albums/5851234630766107153?banner=pwa Thanks for looking , Jim

Not to hijack Mikes post, but I got the coaming on this evening

Hey Mike, Very funny I am currently recovering my Planford Bell Kayak also. I went back with the canvas. Link to my project, hope this works Picassa has changed its format. https://plus.google.com/photos/106668203767680037177/albums/5851234630766107153?banner=pwa

Hey Dave, I think that both sets of plans were purchased by prospective builders who in turn purchased Rudunyet second hand, I am guessing the partial set is my builders set that went with Rudunyet when I sold her to Ken back in 2007 and have been transferred to Jim W and now to Larry as the boat has changed hands. First set already used but the second and third sets are un-built from if I understand correctly. Larry I may have the missing pieces of the original set if you want them. I ran across them recently but do not remember if I saved them or tossed them. Larry let me know how the rebuild goes. Jim

Hey Alan, I have a street address for John from a recent Small Craft Advisor magazine ad as John Pruitt, 1346 Sycamore Street, Stockbridge GA, 30281. I will have to look and see if I have a current Email address for John. Good luck with your build and feel free to contact me any time. Jamesjstumpf@gmail.com Thanks for the kind words regarding Primrose, she has been great fun. To many boats and so little time. Jim Stumpf Had to go all the way back to 2007 to find this email, not sure if it is current jpnofrills@charter.net