Jim Stumpf

Thanks Scott, and thank the lovely Dina for adding some prospective. Really is looking good. Jim

Looks great Scott. A favor; can you throw a person in a pic for scale? The hull looks like 17 ft canoe as there is nothing for scale, it would be fun to see just how big it really is at this point. Jim

I just had all of my sails made by Sobstad Midwest here in Cleveland. Quick and reasonably priced. Call Rich for a quote they already have the sails in their computer. He labeled it a Core Sound 17 Reacher as they do not have a category for staysails. They also built the sails for Primrose and I was very happy with their work. Rich Wilber 1200 Smith Court Cleveland, OH 44116 Phone: 440-331-8300 Fax: 440-331-4810 Email: sobstadmw@aol.com Hope that helps, Jim

Hey Peter, Do you find that the attachment point mid boom adds stress to the boom? We built birdsmouth sprits and am wondering about the forces at work. Thanks for your thoughts, Jim. Should have reread Peters quote, there is no stress mid boom, just a fairlead leading the sheet to the mast. I am a little slow on the uptake...kept picturing a mid boom sheet set up and disregarded the note that the sheet continues on to the mast

Thanks Peter, That makes sense, I missed the mid boom block in my minds eye. Thanks for the pic's Paul. Jim

Thanks for all the input. Question on the mizzen: Is there still a traveler or horse on the aft deck with a traveler block that the sheet runs to before it heads forward to the thwart cleat?

I put together my own rigging package, most of which came from Duckworks. I have a pretty good feel for the set up from the plans, I was just wondering if any one had any upgrades or revisions to the stock plan.JIm

Just kidding, any rigging suggestions or modifications before I start drilling holes. Thanks Jim

Been busy with work this week but did manage to make up some mast crutches for trailering , finished up the deck batten and breast hook. and added the oar lock sockets. Rigging has shipped and is the next project. I will add some holes or eyes to tie down the mast in the crutches, the crutches will be painted and carpet added to the groove. Batten looks darker because of the fresher epoxy it should blend pretty well after cleaned up and all top coated. Thanks for looking, Jim

Hey Steve, The blanks are basically square after band sawing them out. The blocks that are used for clamping are 2*4's with a 90 degree notch cut out of them, 1 top and 1 bottom and then clamped to the work surface sandwiching in the oar. Holds really well for planing and sanding. Look in the last photo on the edge of the table just in front of the yellow radio you can see the bottom block still sitting on the table without the clamp or mated top block. The notch was just cut on the band saw or you could use a jig saw or hand saw. Hope that helps. Jim

Welcome and congratulations on your first cut. When you say 3/4" each side do you mean the bulkhead is 1 1/2" to wide over all? If so I would take a minute and catch your breath and redouble check your layout and dimensions, that being said my forward bulkhead ended up a little wide and Graham did tell me to just go ahead and trim to fit, but an 1 1/2" sounds to me like you may be overlooking something. Good luck on your build Jim

Thanks Chris,although they are prettiest out of the dusty dark shop and on the water basking in the sun. I can't wait. Jim

Thanks Roy, That makes sense. Jim

Not quite done but ready for varnish. FL 120 51 days.

Saturday was fun we had 10 people and I learned a great deal. Here are a couple of pictures. We worked on three different pairs and the last shot is of my set roughed.

How are folks attaching the block at the clew of the sails. I understand the pendant line and the fact that it could be tied or shackled, I guess my questions is to what is it tied to? The sail maker has formed a very nice pocket to receive the sprit tip but there is no clew eye or grommet, should there be or does the block hang from the sprit. It seems to make sense that the pendant should be attached to the sprit so as to not pull the sail away from the sprit. Any preferred methods for this attachment point? As always thanks for the feedback. Jim

Thanks for all the great input. John, cockpit inserts are on the todo list. Dave I have had similar thoughts about the coaming height, I am thinking 1"- 1 1/4" forward and no more than about 3/4" around the sides and transom, I am taking a wait and see position on how much water we are going to see over the deck and possibly add a spray cover at the front of the cockpit, the raised "V" diverter forward of the coaming is also a great thought. Gordy, I am thinking something like this for the cockpit tent, possibly using the two sets of oar lock sockets for some of the tent poles and then maybe a pad eye of some sort for the forward and aft poles. I think I need just enough coaming to divert water and a lip for the tent to skirt with out being attached. With the mizzen in the forward mast step you could hold dances in that tent. I do not know who this boat or this picture belongs to but it caught my eye. Thanks for the feed back it is always helpful.

The Cleveland Amateur Boat Building Society will be presenting a hands on oar making clinic in my shop, in Parma Ohio, this Saturday. If you are close and wish to attend let me know and I will get the details to you. There is no cost and we will have lunch. Jim www.cabbs.org Check my CS 17 link below to see pictures of the birdsmouth sprit clinic that we held last spring .

Thanks Gordy, since I have not sailed the boat yet; where did you find your favorite perch to be? I have seen several folks incorporated the oar lock pedestal into a step/seat. Is that a good location? Thanks Jim

Sobstad 3 weeks early and nicely done. I can't wait. The Reacher bag contains the stay sail. The main bag is very tall as the sail maker engineered the sails for vertical battens so that they can be wrapped around the mast for furling with out dropping the sails.

I have used Brightsides with a foam roller and have had good results. I used the 2 part epoxy primer barrier coat over top of the cured epoxy before applying the Brightsides. Here is Primrose freshly painted in 2007, still looks almost that shiny today.

Spent the day yesterday with the help of Joe getting about 1/2 way complete on the coaming project. No way on earth the 1/4 Merranti was going to yield to the curves. I had some 4 mm Okume set aside for a kayak I was going to build about 10 years ago, the ply supply keeps getting smaller but I have yet to start the kayak (1 sheet ended up in a deck lamination on PRIMROSE). We almost could get the Okume to bend on the forward radius but it was not really working well and the aft radius was out of the question. I thought about setting up the steam box or soaking the stock as some have done but we ended up kerfing the ply and it worked very well. We achieved very fair curves and the two plys will be nice and strong. The outer layer is kerfed towards the boats interior and the inner layer has the kerfs towards kerfs on the outer layer so that they are not visible and will be filled with epoxy. The stock was left very wide on the first lamination as I was not sure how much we would need to get full coverage of the deck camber. the inner layer will be cut much closer to the need size. How tall are folks making their coaming, is yours too tall or do you wish it had been taller? Thanks Jim Kerfs on radial arm saw Aft radius first layer kerf facing into cockpit Forward radius Second layer mocked up with kerf facing center of lamination Interior of forward radius , plywood not trimmed to shape yet Overview

The catspaw dinghy below was built by a friend over 10 years ago from poplar milled from his own yard. He uses it hard every summer. It is traditionally planked and varnished. Keep the wood sealed and you will be fine. If you were building a more substantial boat I might be concerned.

Ever read the lion the witch and the wardrobe? My wife thinks that I am out in the shop but I sneak through that door to "Next boat fantasy land"

Hey John please don't wish the time to go faster, I need time to finish. Jim