Charlie Jones

Just a sharp plane. Here's a pic of the keel timber I found for the Princess 22. The taper at the end is only planed- see the glow? The edges of the wood will actually cut. This chunk of heart pine came from an old house, built somewhere around 1900. I counted 118 rings in the end of the 4 x 4 . We did some calcs and the tree probably started growing around the American Revolution :shock: . To bad wood like this is so hard to find today isn't it? [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Hey - I got a scrap wood box too Always cut the biggest piece first- then when you screw up you can make something else out of it You know all the wonderful wood work you see from the oldtimers? Know why you never see any thing NOT good from them from way back then? They heated with wood!!!

having JUST gone through the eye of Claudette, who was a tiny 'cane, I sure hope this one DOES break up a bit beofre she gets to you folks. I sure do have a lot of friends over along the east coast at risk this week, from NC up to NJ. Laura and I are watching and hoping right along with you .

LOL- Yes Johannah- They are all mine Bear in mind that I'm a professional woodworker. I make my living in my wood shop - building boats, repairing, refinishing and restoring antique furniture. That is an accumulation of quite a few years. Wayne - The machines that look like angle grinders are Porter Cable ROS machines (#s 1 and 3)- 5 inch random orbit sanders as is the yellow DeWalt (#2). It's a much lighter duty machine than the PC ones. They have been through the mill for hour after hour for close to 10 years now with only a brush replacement. I love 'em. As for all the rest- there's a 7 inch grinder (#6), a 3 x 21 belt sander (#7)( A Craftsman that I hate but it won't burn up so I can get a new one ), a pair of Rockwell Speedblocks (#8 and 9) (1/4 sheet pad sanders) a 1/2 sheet pad sander(#10), one of those sanders with a pointed nose for getting into corners (#5) Actually number 4 is a power planer and I don't know how it got into the picture. I also have an old 10 inch band saw that has been converted into a 1 inch belt sander, a 12 inch drum sander and an old table saw that has a sanding disc mounted in it -Apart from my regular table saw. And a spindle sander. And then there are the sanding blocks. I use the foam pads sold for wrist pads for computer users- cut into rectangles with sandpaper wrapped around- that's what's in my hand. I also have wooden blocks with pieces of that foam glued to them to be used as sanding blocks. That happens to be a birds mouth built boom for a Weekender laying on the bench, by the way. You'll notice it's on a piece of carpet at each end. Also - bear in mind that my wife worked in the shop with me for 7 years - until she decided to start selling her art work. Now she has her own studio (air conditioned) and I work in the shop by myself (NOT airconditioned) :? .

Ah sanding- like Oyster says, 'tis the difference between "nice boat" and oohs and aahs. And no matter how many machines you have, you're gonna wind up with a chunk of sandpaper wrapped around a block After 7 or 8 boats, you just accept it and do it . [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Black Locust is a good one. So is Bois D'Arc (better known as Bodark in the south). If you can find it Dogwood is a tough wood. Mahogany should do ok also but not Phillipine which is really a cedar- get Honduras. Of course, teak works well too.

He shows it as a rig on the Ohio Pound Net boats. He also advises extreme caution with the rig as it has a lot of sail area. His words are "it carries it's light air sails all the time" His model shows very deep reefs and he says "I expect they were used often"

Looks like nice work Scott. You'll be sailing before you know it

Sure you can scarf rub rails. This pic shows scarfed rails, and shop made hand rails. All the trim on this Weekender is mahogany. The doug fir will do very well for every thing else on the boat. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Frank- I've never run across any that was not compatible, but then I always purchase my cloth from people who deal in the stuff for marine use. Mostly from Defender Industries. Jeez- I've bought miles of cloth from them over the years I suspect that most cloth nowadays will work with either. As far as tape is concerned, I've had the occasional roll that was tough to use, but not reallly from a wet out perspective. Some of the pre made tapes will drive you up a wall with the selvage edge puckering. I always clamp the end in my bench vise (along with a dowel) and stretch the crap out of it before I use it. Seems to help a lot. If you can afford the extra, bi-axial tape is beautiful stuff to use, and I think it's well worth the money. Easy to lay in place, easy to wet out, doesn't crawl on you. Plus it gives you a much stronger join since there are no glass strands running the length of the join- they all cross at a 45. Used 15 oz bi-axial in the Princess chines- two layers. Had NO trouble at all. Of course, I always lay in the fillet, then while it's uncured, lay in both (or all if more than two) layers of tape. I'm lazy - that way I don't have to sand the fillets

A few that I can think of immediately- A- You lose the ability to harden up the gaff- i.e. you would have no peak halyard. Plus all the weight of the sail is then on that peak. B- you cannot lower that same peak off the wind to put a belly in the sail. One of the advantages of a gaff rig. C- your sail area is always higher up than with a regular gaff sail. When you reef the SA would STILL be up higher. For my money a regular topsail would be a better deal. It has been found to not contribute much to the Weekender though it would be fun to play with.

I dunno either- but it not really a gaff. The "gaff" is actually two pieces of 3/4 x 2 inch stuff, bolted together through the sail. At least that's what I can read from that photo. In that rig the "gaff" is really more of a full length batten. I suppose it could still be called a gaff sail with permanent topsail.

I can tell you for sure that epoxy will wet out 16 oz cloth . I've wet out stuff much heavier than that -VERY heavy roving- and I DO NOT thin epoxy. It just takes a bit longer to get the glass fibers all wet, so you have to work slower. As far as amine blush- it's SO easy to get rid of that it just doesn't make sense to take a chance. As long as you are hot coating you needn't worry, but if you allow a cure you should wash the boat down. Doesn't take long. I washed the hull of a Princess 22 just the other day- took me about 30 minutes to do the entire thing. And Oyster is certainly correct- I often see suggestions that make me cringe. One of the reasons I stick around here is to try to be of some small bit of help with people and their projects, as I'm sure is part of the reason he stays. And Oyster has a ton of boatbuilding experience. Plus I like the place

I agree totally with Oyster here. Especially with cherry cause you'll never match the color as it darkens from the UV. Put in cherry wood patches, then do the varnishing. And cherry isn't THAT unconventional as a trim wood on boats. Been used off and on for many years. Nowadays there are many high dollar yachts being sold with cherry interiors.

I also would do what Frank suggested.

C'm'on over- but bring a dust mask cause I'll be sanding hull in the morning

The owner has decided on a white hull, deck and cabin, with some bright trim. I'll most likely shoot it with a 2 part polyurethane, which is my favorite paint for boats.

If you are gonna be in warm salt water, and Slidell pretty much fits that, DO NOT USE Zamack. We call it "monkey metal" and it'll corrode on you in 6 months time. What I did on the Weekender I built was use a regular 1/4 stainless U-bolt bow eye. Drilled the 2 holes just oversized for the nuts, then set the two legs, with nuts down at the bottom end of the threads, into thickened epoxy. It AIN'T coming out I put the plate that comes with it on when I did it, and then used the second set of nuts to take up the tiny bit of slack. That's exactly what I did on my own Sharpie and what I'll do on the Princess 22 I'm currently building. Once 3 inches of thickened epoxy sets over the nuts, you could pick the boat up with the fitting. By the way, we're hopeful of making the Wooden Boat show in Madisonville this year. If we get to do it, maybe we can hook up to say hello.

if anyone is interested, I just posted a series of pics of glassing the hull of a Princess 22 on the B and B forum. http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2 I don't want to use space unnecessarily so I won't repost here. The subject is "Glassing a Princess Hull"

The end [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

side cloth wet out. On vertical surfaces I use a roller first, then squeegee excess resin out into the dry cloth as I go. I normally work an area about two feet wide, then squeegee. Temps in the shop on both days were right at 100 degrees, so I was working with about 10 ozs of resin at a mix. By the way. on all of this glassing, I started at the stern and worked forward, smoothing any wrinkles as I went. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Cloth hung on side, ready for wetout. The round things that look like screw heads are some lead weights I made long ago. I use them to hold the glass in place, as you can see. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

after wetout. I use a squeegee alone on horizontal surfaces. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

On Thursday of last week I started glassing the hull. Did both sides of the bottom and the starboard side on Thursday, did the other side and transom on Friday, so these pics are from two days. Graham- per our discussion on epoxy usage- I'm right now at 7 gallons used. That includes all filleting and taping inside, coating the interior (one coat) and glassing the hull, with three fill coats rolled on. First picture is second bottom glass laid out. Other side of bottom is already done. I waited till it tacked so I could stick the new glass down along the keel line and not have it move. The cloth has been trimmed roughly to shape. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]