Noklin

I named my CS20 'Jewel' after my wife's grandmother. I liked the name and you can never have too many points with the wife. I just hope that the actual boat, when finished, does justice to the name and the lady it was named after. I had planned on naming it 'STAR'. It is a term we use at work. It stands for Shit, That An't Right.

I e-mailed Grahan with my question. I will be staying with the wood tabernacle as designed based upon his comments. Part of his reply is shown below: The standard tabernacle out of wood is using the same technology as the rest of the boat (wood, epoxy, glass) and has several advantages like large bonding area to reduce the stresses and fillets to spread the load further and keep the water out. There will be no corrosion between the glass and the aluminum where SS has to be isolated. Because of lack of local stiffness of thin gauge SS plate you would need extra ribbing or gussets so I doubt that you could build it lighter than designed.

The garage is finally cleaned out after the move and the CS 20 is off the trailer and back on the building cradle in the garage. I am building the boat with a mast tabernacle. The tabernacle as designed by Graham is built using

From the orignal post: estimated weight maximum 600#. How close to this did it actually turn out?

In his book, Sam suggest using the carbon rod from a dry cell to help reduce the current flow and give better control.

I am just outside of Southport at the mouth of the Cape Fear River.

Well, there was a mix up with the moving company and we had to use the trailer as a moving van. I had about 400 pounds of stuff in the boat with it on the trailer. After the beating I gave it on the move, I am very impressed with how strong a structure the hull, bulkheads and seats make.

Well, my job in north Alabama ended last week and I had to move the CS 20 I have been working on for the last year back home to North Carolina. The boat is at the point of installing the centerboard case (which is not installed) I spent several days working to make the trailer fit the boat. Just got home today after 685 miles. Checked the boat, no problems. This is a little surprising since I jumped two curbs last night, let one trailer wheel fall into a pot hole the size of a small car and worst yet, cut short into my own driveway and hit that curb. For a second I thought the trailer was going to turn over. Broke the curb and bend the trailer fender, but no damage to the boat. Strong boat!

From their website: Previously, Top Secret Coatings was a brand name wholly owned by North American Trading Company Inc, a holding company, located in Arlington Washington. In July of 2005, to coincide with the release of its remarkable new One Part Epoxy, North American Trading Co. sold its Top Secret Coatings brand name to newly incorporated Top Secret Pant and Coatings Inc located in nearby Marysville Washington, a suburb of Seattle WA.

Charlie, I understand what you are saying, don

The CS 20 plans show a desired cross sectional shape for the centerboard. The plans also show that the lower end of the board is tapered from side to side. The taper prevents the bottom of the board from being shaped to the desired cross sectional shape. Why does the bottom of the board need to be tapered from side to side? Why not shape the board to the desired cross sectional shape to the end of the board and leave it flat on the bottom? Does the flat bottom shape cause additional drag? I realize that the taper only affects the bottom 2 or 3 inches, but I am still curious about the logic. Would the additional thickness at the bottom not reduce the cross flow from side to side and increase the board efficiency?

Some Douglas Fir boards are dark red/brown in color while others are light brown to a cream color. The dark red/brown is almost twice as heavy as the other. I assume that the dark red/brown is heartwood while the other is sapwood. How much difference is there between the two in rot resistance and strength? Again, I assume that the heartwood boards would be the choice for the centerboard.

What is the correct order in which to fair and glass the hull? I can see advantages both ways. Since the fairing compound is soft for easy sanding, it would seem that glassing over the faired hull would provide better protection to the fairing compound and hull. But since any joint in the glass would still have to be faired in, is it better to glass first and then fair the hull once.

I am also a first time builder and not an experienced woodworker. I am currently building a CS 20. I am at the point of installing the centerboard case before rolling the hull over. I figure that I am about 50% completed. I found the plans to be clear and with the knowledge available here, well within the capabilities of a first time builder. The only time I have had problems was either when I assumed that I remembered what the plans said instead of actually looking at the plans OR I got in too big a hurry and took shortcuts. With the advice available here, any problems were easily fixed. I found the builders CD to be well worth the money. As they say, sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. I found none of the steps in the building process were difficult, but more time consuming that I had expected. Buy the plans and go for it.

Ken Thanks, I will do that. I try to get home about every 3 months. This time the wife is coming over here, so I will not be in the area until after the first of the year. I just purchased a used 19 foot trailer for the CS 20. It is rated for a 3000 lb boat, but the price was right and it has brakes. Since I will be towing with a small truck I like having brakes on the trailer. I am currently replacing and adjusting the supports to fit the CS 20.

Ken Nice looking boat. I live in Boiling Spring Lakes and am building a CS 20. I am currently working and building the boat in north alabama. Hoping to have it finished next spring. When finished I will be taking it home. Nice to know that there will be another CS 20 in the Southport area. Maybe we can sail together next year.

I know that the less weight hanging on the transom of a sailboat the better, so I am planning on using a light weight 5 HP motor on my CS 20. In an earlier post, it was stated that a CS 20 could not handle a 35 HP outboard (more motor that I would buy, but in this case it was free). This made me wonder how the recommended motor size for a boat was determined. If there is only a 5 pounds weight difference between a 15 HP and a 25 HP motor, why is the 15 HP recommended? Assuming the transom is strong enough to support the weight and force of an outboard, what other factors determine how large a motor can be used on a boat? How much difference is there between what is legal and what is reasonably possible to use?

As you indicated, Jeff would be the best person to answer your questions since he has been living with it for some time now. I saw his installation and decided to put the hatch in the bulkhead of the CS20 that I am building. I doubted my ability to make water proof hatches, so I purchased after market hatches. My reasoning for installing it in the bulkhead was that I could get a larger after market hatch into the bulkhead that I could in the deck, I personally think it looks better and it should be easier to install and make water proof on a flat mounting surface.

I see people using epoxy with different additives such as copper or graphite on the hull bottom. With an epoxy hull joint exposed to sunlight (southeastern US) without any form of UV protection, how long before the joint is damaged to the point of concern. Are we talking weeks or years? Can you tell by looking if the joint has been damaged or would you have to do some form of strength testing?

I need some help in sizing a mast tabernacle for my CS 20. Would someone tell me how far the main mast extends down into the mast tube. From measuring my own boat, it looks to be about 21 inches. I also need to know how far above the forward deck the main sail is at the main mast. This will tell me how high above the deck I can let the tabernacle extend without interfering with the sail. I figure to give the mast the same support with the tabernacle as it has in the mast tube. Since the center of the main mast is located 22 inches back from the bow and the foot of the 3 inch mast has to be 4

I really like the notion of the tabernacle. I assume that the picture you posted is of the CS 15 footer. I searched and found a post of a tabernacle drawing that you had done for a CS but it does not have any dimensions. Is a drawing with dimensions for a CS 20 available? If so, I would be very interested in purchasing a set. Could a similar tabernacle, sized appropriately, be used for the after mast?

I for one would be very interested in a tabernacle for the CS 20. I have not reached the point of installing the deck beams or decking so I assume that it would not require me to rip out any thing that is already installed. How much more money would be involved? Would it affect the sailing performance of the boat? How much would it reduce the storage capacity of the forward compartment? Could the forward compartment still be made water tight?

Thanks Jeff I had shown my co-workers the B & B web site and some of the other B & B designs. The actual question was why the CS 20 did not have a mast tabernacle. I explained that the mast to too far forward, which brought up the question of how close the mast was to the bow. The last several months I have been working 60 hours/week. With only 2 days off each weekend instead of 3 progress on CS 20 #67 has slowed down considerable.

At work today I was showing several of my co-workers the pictures of the finished CS boats on the CD. Several expressed interest in someday building a boat themself. They had several questions, most of which I could answer off the top of my head. One asked me how far back from the bow the main mast was located. Without the plans, I could not answer his question. Could someone look at the plans and provide the answer.

I have a 5.5 HP outboard and I agree that it is enough for an auxiliary motor on a sailboat like the CS 20. I have used it for years on a Catalina 22. But one of the things that attracted me to the Core Sound boats was their versatile. With the capability to sail, motor or row and with a draft of only 8 inches with the board up, they hit me as a boat that could be used for many things. If used as a fishing boat for 3 men with all of their tackle, coolers and other stuff for an all day fishing trip on the Tennessee River, a larger motor with better performance would be desirable, especially if the larger motor could be had for little to no extra cost.