DURRETTD

When I carry a kayak on the roof I run a line across the roof at a slight diagonal, under the rooftop crossbar, put the kayak on the carrier, then toss each end of the line over the top of the kayak and tie it to the end of the crossbar - using what I've always heard referred to as a "truckers' hitch" (the line goes through an eye - or hole - then back through a loop in the line between the load and the hole, then it is pulled tight and tied off with whatever knot you trust). The kayak ends up inside a loop held down on the rack. Since the loops are ahead of and behind the widest part of the boat they resist movement either forward or backward. Then I use the bow and stern painters to tie the boat to web loops like the ones in Jeff's photo. I've never had a boat show any noticeable movement since I started using this system. I prefer not to discuss what prompted me to start using this system. It is possible to damage a kayak by overtightening any of the lines, I so just get the lines snug and rely on the redundancy of the loops around the hull along with the bow and stern lines to hold the boat in place. I also check the lines frequently during transport - nylon stretches. Because I'm a cheap old man, I don't cut the rope to eliminate any excess; I toss it in the back and slam the hatch.

I've owned a tandem kayak (18' x 29", 85 pounds - I think) and it worked fairly well with two people. It was a pig when paddled solo: One person didn't sink the boat enough to get the intended stability, with so much boat above the waterline it got blown around badly, it was heavier than a single, tandems REQUIRE a rudder, and if I loaded it enough to compensate for the absence of a partner it was difficult to paddle due to the weight and the wide beam. If you want a tandem, you'll also need a single for the times you don't have a partner. I'd recommend having two singles instead of a tandem. It's easier (for me) to tow the other person's single than to paddle a tandem solo while the other person rests. On the other hand, Jeff's boats are so quick, inexpensive, and easy to build that if you build a tandem and it spends most of its time hanging in the carport it's not a tragedy - as it would be if you spent $4,000 on it. Dan

Great idea, Jeff! For years I would pull a Mohawk Pack Canoe (instead of a Poly kayak) off the rack about half the time just because it was so light and easy to carry to the creek. Stability was marginal until I learned to sit on the bottom; with me on the bottom it handled some pretty rough water. Dan

Look at some commercial kayak cockpits. Their thigh braces vary widely: Some are semi-circles that project a couple of inches into the cockpit. Others project into the cockpit to form a "keyhole" opening. The keyhole looks like the most versatile shape because it can accommodate a greater variety of leg positions and leg lengths. Whatever shape the braces appear to have when viewed from above, they need to have a "lip" on the inner edge so your thighs can hold onto them. My 1989 Hydra "Solo" has no braces projecting into the egg-shape of the cockpit, but because the bottom edge of the cockpit rim is set slightly below the level of the deck, I can get a good grip on the underside of the deck. I wedge my knees under the deck by flexing my feet slightly on the peddles and my knees are forced OUT away from the center. It works very well for holding myself in the boat - unless I get sand between my knees and the under side of the deck. When that happens it becomes evident that comfort is very important. I suspect that a flat piece of plywood would make a good brace, IF it is padded with some foam that includes a bit of a lip along the inner AND outer edges. Dan

I built a SOF using screws and epoxy. Yes, the epoxy is a pain, but it works. I pre-drilled and used thin screws. I did not split any frames. I also coated the frames and stringers with epoxy before assembly. After two coats of epoxy, I assembled the whole frame with zip ties, made any adjustments necessary, marked positions with a Sharpie, and drilled for the screws - pilot hole and countersink. Mix small amounts of the epoxy paste, assemble from the center toward alternating ends, and spread the epoxy on the frame before putting the stringers/chines in place and driving the screws. Don't over-drive the screws. Once the frame is fully assembled, I apply another coat of epoxy. The time between coats must be brief (sorry, forgot what WEST Systems specifies). Epoxying the components before assembly prevents the wood from absorbing all the epoxy out of the paste/glue in the frame-to-stringer joints; you could just pre-coat the joint area You will get a very rigid frame; I prefer that, some like more flexibility. I've been warned that epoxy-coating does not ensure freedom from dry rot. Yep, I agree. But if the process is done carefully, and if you follow WEST System's instructions, epoxy encapsulation works exceptionally well. To repeat, yes the epoxy is messy. It's also expensive. But, I prefer the finished product. I assume the epoxy adds a little time to the assembly. Epoxy encapsulating the frame may be over the top when you could just pre-coat the joint area where the epoxy paste will be applied. Lots of people will disagree with the idea of using screws and epoxy. No matter how you assemble the boat, you'll get a great, light-weight boat. Your boat, your choice.

Of course! But, I don't see the problem. The software guy blames the hardware guy and the hardware guy blames the software guy! That's why so many people have jobs as help desk technicians! It's all about job security. Dan

Jeff, I found one link that took me to the wrong design: the link at http://www.kudzucraft.com/web/boat-designs/boats (Slingshot) leads to http://www.kudzucraft.com/web/boat-designs/firefly. Looks great! It looks a little more modern and loads quickly. As an IT hardware guy, I feel compelled to advise you that you should always blame any problems on the software. It may not always be true, but it's a good policy and most people will believe you. Dan

Jeff, Is that the redesigned Short Shot?

Jeff, Tell us about that coaming! Dan

Wow! I'm not a fan of dark-colored boats, but I'm thinking one of those would look good on my white sand! Best Kudzu Craft ad I've seen so far. I'll take one!

Jeff, I was browsing the Kudzu Craft web site and noticed that you have changed the paddling resistance chart format. I was disappointed that it was difficult to tell the difference in the resistance of the boats at low speeds. Then, I realized that the reason it was difficult to tell the difference was because there isn't much difference! The graph is a great improvement. Thanks! Dan

Appropriate or not, you have my sympathies.

His location is listed as "Tennessee River". There's the river. Seems appropriate for a kayak and canoe guy.

For those keeping score, here are the average ratings to date: AVERAGE 3.5 1.78 2.6 2.3 2 3 speed resistance/ stability weight rolling storage potential ease of paddling 1 2 3 4 4 2 3 1 3 1 4 2 4 3 2 1 3 1 4 5 2 4 2 1 3 4 1 3 2 4 1 3 2 4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1 Readers threw in two new categories: Rolling and Storage, each of which got one mention. So far it looks like ease of paddling is most highly valued, followed by light weight, then stability. Most of us are least concerned with speed potential. Unfortunately, these numbers don't mean a lot. As I recall from a stats class, "average" is an imaginary representation of a group of numbers. Looks like Jeff needs to design a boat for each of us, each with a difference sequence of priorities. Or, maybe Ravenswood/Curlew cover the ease of paddling niche and Vardo covers the stability niche. I'll run the numbers again after ten more responses - no fair voting twice! Sorry about the formatting. I can't seem to outwit this site's aversion to spaces.

3 Resistance/ ease of paddling 1. Ease and speed of construction Weight of the boat. 4. Speed potential. 2. Stability

Boats designed to play in the surf generally have lots of rocker so they can turn rapidly to catch and stay on a wave. They are also generally a little wider and have fuller bows above the waterline. I see a lot of tourists who come to the beach to use their whitewater boats in the surf. To rephrase Hirilonde, they're specialized, but you can paddle many of them about as well as any open water boat if they have a skeg. Boats designed for the ocean (or other open water) are generally narrower than surf boats and have less rocker; they're generally designed to go straight. It's hard work taking them up a narrow, winding creek. If you're not intending to spend all your time playing in the surf, most any boat will get you through the surf. Most any boat can also be fun for occasional surfing. As Jeff said, it's about the skill of the paddler. I've surfed long, skinny boats - sometimes with more success than others - and short, wide ones - sometimes with more success than others. All were fun. All were wet.

Always the contrarian, I prefer epoxy with stainless screws. I dislike epoxy, but it works and lasts well. I'm not that big a fan of a flexible frame and the epoxy with screws produces a very rigid structure that hold its shape very well. I've heard the flexible frame will resist damage, but my boat survived without damage when it fell off a rack and landed on an air conditioner; the boat was unscathed, but the A/C didn't. Your boat, your choice.

Regarding removing the frame brace, I was wondering the same thing. Perhaps the two frames behind the seat could be built with 3/4" ply and slightly wider webbing? Or, maybe two 1/2" plywood frames laminated together? Of course this would add a few more ounces to the boat. What do you think Jeff? Would that be over-kill? Consider gluing reinforcement across the top of the frames. It could be a scrap from a stringer or plywood.

Yep, paddle blades are painter bright, international green.

I use Rustolium oil-based paint. It's cheap and it works. It's also available in BRIGHT colors - I paddle Choctawhatchee Bay (Northwest FL); we have lots of tourists consuming lots of alcohol while operating lots of jet skis, so I like to be highly visible while I'm on the water. Subdued colors look great, but they blend into the background too easily.

Jeff, are the plans ready yet? Jeff, are the plans ready yet? Jeff, are the plans ready yet?

JA, my complements on an outstanding project! I was especially impressed by the comment that the students abandoned a tracking system because it would add complexity and weight. For those who think the younger generation is going to Hell in a handcart, it isn't as bad as it may appear. I taught IT/Networking at a high school in Northwest Fl and helped with a robotics team; I saw that there are a lot of bright, hard-working kids out there. Don't let the knuckleheads you hear about on the evening news disillusion you.

Jeff, Where were you?

Hobie builds a kayak-based trimaran - the Adventure Island single and double - that sails very well. The drawbacks to the boat are that it's HEAVY for a kayak. Most of the weight is in the basic polyethylene hull, but there's also a lot of stiffening and rigging. The sail alone is EXPENSIVE! The main hull is expensive. The research and engineering that went into the design and development is EXPENSIVE! It's possible you could engineer a similar boat, but I'm afraid Hirilonde is right. It would be a far bigger undertaking than it appears to be and you might not have what you want when you finish.

I used the 8 ounce fabric on my boat and it worked very well. I pulled it very tight and it required no ironing - although I ironed it anyway, just to be certain. I thinned my first coat (Rustoleum gloss) about 10% - 20% and it penetrated sufficiently to stick to the stringers. I don't think I'd care for the fuzzy finish from the recycled fabric.