makenmend

I pondered this, I wanted access to all areas for airing out while not in use. So 8'' deck plates are installed,as further insurance I have enough 5 ltr wine bladders that can be inserted then inflated. havn't done the acid test yet (capsize)but have same set up in my decked kayaks and trimaran and it definitly works. MM

Pussers Rum, the closest to the Royal Navy rum ration iv'e yet to taste. There were grown seamen crying on that last day!! MM

If it would be possible to retro fit my CS 17 I surely would, I have added a similar set up to post#6 and it really helps but that final transition whilst having the mast partialy raised and trying to step up onto the foredeck is dicey for this Ol fart. MM

hokeyhydro, I used Graham's plan for the stave diametions and when rounded it was to the stipulated size. That fir is heavy. makenmend - with doug fir you should have reduced the scantlings. Opinions vary but one should be able to reduce stave thickness by 15% to 20% with fir since it is stiffer.

Alex I made a birdsmouth mast for my CS 17, couldn't source Spruce at resonable cost so went with Fir. Long story short mast came in at nearly 30 lb, able to manauver horizontaly but trying to step ordered the Aluminium items from Carla/Graham, came in at 12.7 lb before any hardware. At an advanced age still somewhat difficult to step main (wish there was tabernacle design) but doable. MM

OK now in possession of a new Large Bailer, being in the midst of moving all my tools and equipment are now in East TX so install will not happen until early next month with moving behind me. Question this item comes with cut out template but no instructions, outside mounting is stipulated but what's best gasket sealing or sealant ?? and once again cutting a hole in the bottom just goes against the grain MM

Very nice, and to have such an adept helper to, lucky man. MM

Folks many thanks for your input, making desitions such as this, is far more comfortable with expierenced input. MM

I'm assuming that when you refer to making sure the bailer is closed before backing boat off trailer that would be due to fouling/hitting parts of the trailer, with my set up there will be no such interference. If left open will the boat backfill or does it have a one way system. Have gone ahead with ordering the new large bailer, after advise from Phil Garland. MM

what if any bailer to install in the core sound?? the Anderson if shown in the plans, what are the alternatives in cost and effectiveness?? MM

I made this set up for my 17' Core sound build. very worthwhile to be able to move boat around during the build proccess dificult to see the wheels, steerable one end only,4'' dia from Harbout freight,platform is 1/2" ply and 2x6 pretty much able to reach most area's inside the boat exept the bow which with some trepidation I got inside to work on with no problems. MM

I'm using 1/8" X 7/32" rubber weather seal purchased at Lowes,worked out good for my flush fit kayak hatches. Just put on my Core sound seat hatches (built per plan)but until I do capsize tests not sure how well they'll seal. ]

Couldn't agree more, nice job. MM

I opened the fwd bulkhead so I have access all the way to the main mast step.This allows me almost 8' and I'm only 5'7'' Not sure yet if that will means that the incline afloat will have my head lower than my feet,i.e not comfortable !!

On the KISS principle, using what is already in the boat (exept tarp).lashing the main spirit to the masts at head height with run off angled to the bow, then secure front through bow eye and the sides bungied or lashed to suction cups attached to hull. Both ends can close,as required, Now this won't keep bugs out, but with the hose pipe test it worked. MM

Dnjost many thanks, playing wih similar right now,trying different configurations.

Tom , this dufus isn't able to find any pics using the search function with anything to do with loon or rip stop.? MM

quote '' One big problem with having a boom tent over the front cockpit is that it makes the boat sail around wildly at anchor owing to the excess windage up front. I nearly got whiplash during a thunderstorm last year!'' these are reasons for my inquirey, hadn't considered this aspect good to know!! I will be carrying regular camping gear but for those occasions when it;s not convienient to camp onshore, I want something I can set up from inside the boat. still playing with ideas' now have a couple more I can try, thanks. I wasn't able to delete my double post in the edit mode sorry. MM

anyone care to share their onboard camping setup, ( canvas/tarp ) with masts stepped or not, playing with idea's now. Before I waste time and materials ,I feel sure others have tried this before, and all or any thoughts would be welcome. MM

Anyone care to share their ideas for onboard camping setup (primarily canvas/tarp setup) for CS 17, with masts stepped or not. Playing with idea's now, but I'm surely not the only person to consider this. MM

Thanks Lance, doing really well, just resticted from any heavy lifting,pulling,pushing till sternum has mended.Expect to be fully funtional by spring. Until then playing with lite weight stuff like oars dodger tent set up ect. Hurry up and wait time is getting old !! MM

''You must be using a hook and loop sander. Probably the hooks on the sander pad are worn. Time to buy a new pad'' always keep a couple spares handy but the backing on the Mirka pads is superior, IMO MM

been out of commision for a little while (bypass surgery again !!) but almost ready to get back into things.On the ROS sander it was frustrating when a seemingly good disc would fly across the shop,tried a few different brands until I came across Mirka, way more durable absolutly no comparison to the stuff I was getting from the big box stores.<br />My belt sander see's more duty as a shaper these days.<br /><br />On the boat front until I'm able to launch and rig,I'm looking at making a boom tent type affair with a dodger for those less than ideal weather days.Still in the idea stage right now.<br /><br />MaxH used to agree on the phone thing, but my new smart phone with all the boating apps is becoming a great tool, even if it's to smart for me !!<br /><br />MM

On my boat the rear of the opening for the mizzen is 2" from the rear of the thwart, that is given 2.5" for mast diameter 3.25" to the centre.I think your doing as I did, overthinking , all of this instead of just "doing it" I would pour over the plans to obsesive amounts,you may be off a fraction here and there but you'd have to be way off to make a difference(measure twice cut once). Grahams plans if followed will get you where you need to be. Many times I just had to say to myself "just do it" and I got there, eventually.. Bending ply or most any wood with heat application not my idea,just borrowed from the more expierienced folks in the boat building arena MM

Neil, the mizzen diamentions are from the bow to the centre line of the mast at the thwart, with that established and the boat levelled fore and aft then as you summized you can set your mast rake at 3 deg or 1" in 20". As for the coaming width that is a personal preference, but 1/4" is plenty strong when bonded to the carlin. I found it quite easy to bend the 1/4" ply to fit the deck radius simply boiling water in a large baking pan on a camp stove plus a small towel. MM