SeaEagle

Hi - I'm currently working in India for the next three weeks and have been doing some sightseeing in the weekends etc, and keep seeing brass ornaments etc - which raised the question in my mind regarding bronze fittings for my Weekender. I like the look of Bronze fittings etc, but to be honest the exchange rate cost of shipping to Australia makes them prohibitive based on a couple of quotes I've had from both the UK and USA. I'm thinking that while I'm in India I may be able to source some reasonable quality bronze boat bits - but am having problems locating any suppliers here that do this sort of thing. Does anybody within the forum here know of any suppliers etc. Many thanks for any help in advance SE

Hi Guys - I've been offline for a a fair while - I was half way through building a Weekender two years ago and then got a new position at work. This meant putting everything (including a half built weekender) into storage. I've spent the last two years in Paris, Amsterdam, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Bangalore (India). I was living in Canberra, (Australia), but on my return will be setting up in Sydney. I'm returning after Easter, and will be setting up in an Apartment which comes with a Weekender sized workshop / garage. I'm really looking forward to getting back into the project - and anticipate bugging you guy's a lot over the next couple of months! I've been keeping an irregular eye on the site and its good to see that most of the old regulars are still contributing! Catch you all later

Frank, I never knew my father but I am blessed with four Uncles who all incredibly special to me. I really can't imagine what you are going through. I can only reiterate the thoughts of everyone else - my thoughts are with you and your family.

Capt Jake, Thanks for the sentiment However, I think the whole Thanksgiving thing with a vocabulary including 'Mayflower','Pilgrims','Turkey' and 'Yams' is lost on your average Antipodean! :wink: We struggle with the whole concept of a modern Christmas, (i.e. snow, roast meals - in 30+ deg C). I'll make you a deal though - I am prepared to give it a try, if you promise to celebrate ANZAC day with us! Regards

I'm hoping for a Feb / March Launch - Everytime I think I'm making good progress work gets in the way. I've travelled interstate (Australia) 9 times in the last 2 weeks, (usually means hitting the road around 6am and not returning until 9-10pm (this includes flying time). Unfortunately this doesn't leave much time for boatbuilding. I'm all 3D, and hoping to sand, prime and paint all the internals this weekend, then planning to close-up in the following 2-3 weeks. I haven't done the cabin sides/top yet either, but have made the rafters. I'm trying to get some small jobs done in the evenings (it's now warm enough with a couple of days hitting 28deg C in the last week). We went from 10-15 deg C to high twenties almost overnight. I'll try and post some pictures in the next few days - something to keep you northern hemisphere builders enthused with the approaching winter !

Thanks Guys, I found the stuff I wanted on the Link that Mike posted!

Hi there, Did anyone happen to save a copy of the webpage(s) from the link below e.g. http://www.widgetsailor.com/sbjournal/sculling/scull1.html I was planning on making a sculling oar from the plans that were listed - but have found that this site is now longer hosted . Regards SE

thanks for the help I saw your responses in time to make an offer. The seller has some advertisements listed in the paper this coming saturday - and so wants to wait until then b4 accepting my offer. With any luck no-one else will be interested! Thanks again for your quick responses

I'd appreciate it if somebody could help me with the width of the weekender. I'm currently out of town, and have just seen a galvanised boat trailer that looks ideal. The max width between the wheel guards is 1500 mm. Will a weekender fit? Many thanks

I kind of think of the weekend as a dingy The idea of a 12' tender for a 17'ish with 6+" yacht draught strikes me as funny!

Wayne, Looks good! Your artwork beats mine anyday I think you've got the right idea - although I would make the following design 'observations'. I would mount the mount level with the top of the transom (then when you tilt you won't have to worry about hitting the deck). If you leave the pivot point as drawn in your diagram, you would then design the movable section of your mount at a downward angle (i.e. ensuring the motor is in the water ) Between a mix of your design and mine - I think you are onto a winner! Another option I have seen is as per the drawing attached (take 2). This option allows the mount to be raised and then the motor tilted. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Wayne, With this type of bracket the bracket tips up not the motor, (i.e. you don't use the tip mechanism on the motor mount), you achieve the same result however. I've attempted to detail this in the attached drawing (forgive the artwork :wink: ) [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Chaps, Have a look at the attached picture - it is from Bristol Bronzes catalogue, and I believe it is exactly what you are after. You may not need to go to the full expense of a bronze mount - I intend to fabricate one from aluminum. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

I'll second Johannah - Take it back to good stock and mix up a fresh batch (using epoxy that hasn't been sitting on a shelf for a couple of years! Different brands of Epoxy Resin age more gracefully than others - having said that I always try to apply the 'fresh is best' rule - (cooking and boat building )

Andrew, A trice allows a loose footed main sail to be gathered up the mast towards the gaff, (this is sometimes called tricing up or sabotaging or scandalising the main). A trice uses a block located either on the bottom of the gaff jaws or above the gaff on the mast. I plan on using a double block above the gaff on the main (one to be used for the trice and one for a topping lift. My (basic) drawing shows the main set normally (using a snatch block at the base of the mast), with the main sabotaged (triced up), and with the boom raised using both the trice and a topping lift. You will notice I'm not an artist Hope this helps. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

I'm going the boom jaws route myself. I plan on having a loose footed main and plan on having a tricing line to sabotage the main sail. This will also allow me to lift the boom when not sailing - good for boom tents etc (with a topinglift aft and the tricing line for'ard the boom tent can be as high as you want!). A tricing line can be setup to act as both a trice and and a downhaul. All you need is an extra snatch-block or open check block at the base or side of the mast. In this configuration you don't need to worry about downhauls etc., (I could draw a diagram if anyone is interested. I understand that this setup benefits from having a heavy boom - provided you ensure that your clews etc are well reinforced (necessary with a loose-footed main anyway). Hope this helps

Andrew, Glad to see how quickly you've been going! Winter hit me pretty hard (and it was too cold for epoxy) - I'm building in my carport and it's only partly enclosed! I've got the bottom on the keel and the deck, transom, bulkhead have all been dry fitted (seems OK). Now that things have warmed up I'm hoping to get it all together before it's too hot Epoxy cure times can't be fun in the mid 30's deg C. I was planning on going fully 3D this long weekend - but family commitments have come up, (my Grandmother in NZ died last month and I've got to go back and help sort things out - she made to 92, so you can't complain at that ) I'm planning on a launch date of Feb / March - depending on work commitments. I've still got your contact details and plan on giving you a call - I'll 'have a go' when I get back from NZ.

I've got the the dry fit stage on my weekender (i.e. have fabricated everything other than the sides), and I am thinking about the location of deck fittings (cleats etc). From my previous boat building / repairing experiences I know that locating fittings is much easier when you can get in behind and locate backing plates etc. So, although I am a fair way off from actually fitting the 'bits' I'm thinking about buying cleats, blocks etc now, (then I can build backing plates etc in the correct location before I close everything up). I'm planning on having a reasonable amount of the boat finished 'bright' and like the idea of having polished bronze cleats etc, however I haven't been able to find a reasonable supply in Australia. I've found one or two suppliers online, but I'd appreciate it if anyone could provide me with the URL's for some online suppliers of this sort of thing to double check . Also, what size cleats has everyone gone with? Thanks in advance for any help

Ummm TexasPhil... It might just depend on how much wind there is

Capt Jake, I recently heard a story about a contractor who had 'done the dirty' with some clients, i.e. took the money and ran. One of his clients who, after loosing patience with the courts etc, decided to take matters into his own hands and made a smoke bomb, which he proceeded to throw under the contractors house - he then called the local fire brigade who came in with axes swinging etc, looking for the fire. I thought you might appreciate the irony in this given your line of work (of course I'm not suggesting anything, but I find it's the little thoughts that get us through the day I hope things start coming together a bit more smoothly for you! Regards,

Great looking boat. Congratulations and thanks for the motivation!

Absolutely no Bananas! I was a flotilla leader for a flotilla around the Greek Islands, my opening speech to new arrivals always included two things - 1, If I yell something - do it, ask questions later! And 2, No Bananas. On one trip we had a Contiki Coach load from the US, Lunches provided by the coach - included bananas. We had 3 engine failures in the one day (only time I every had engine failures) and ripped a mainsail. Absolutely no Bananas!

chris, A work of art - brilliant!

I'm still in the building stages - but based on previous experiance I'm definately planning on running the Jib Halyard and Jib Downhaul aft. On my Elliot 5'9 I had both back to the cockpit, and an additional advantage I found with that boat was that I could clip the Jib Halyard to the Jib Downhaul, cleat off the jib halyard, and winch the mast using the downhaul. I don't know if this will be possible, or even necessary) with the Weekender, but it worked well with the Elliot. I think I remember that Capt. Jake may have set up something similar for his dry boat :wink:

There are a number of locations in New Zealand where the tidal current / flow is 12 -14knots (from memory). I remember trying to motor through a gap between two islands in a 12ft dingy with a 2hp seagull outboard motor (going flat out) and yet bearly moving forward in relation to the shore. In parts of NZ it is not uncommon to get significant tidal flows, (Buck can probably provide some comment here - I understand he lives in the south of the South Island) Regards, SE