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Posted

Cool, thanks for posting! I know I want to do this for the next, and curious how others have executed. My first hack at a laminated coaming sucked rocks because the strips wet with glue start warping between clamps, so I think I'm going to make a male/female jig out of particle board to ensure full width clamping force this time.

Posted

But you don't put you knee down the center of the boat getting it. Even if you do. it is only 5/8" wide and at most 3/4" tall so you are not really loosing any room.  But you are raising the coaming and that could cause you bang you knuckles as you paddle.

Posted

I appreciate Jeff's voice of experience, which I greatly respect.  Before I made this frame, I measured the front floor-to-coaming height of my other SOF boats and my Hurricane Sojourn.  Finding the ideal height for me, directed the way I built and beamed my masik, and a smooth inside curve was more appealing to me personally.  Also, it seemed the front of the coaming would rest better on the flat center beam.   I don't think there will be any downside.  Once I paddle this boat I will give a follow up report.  Keep in mind I am not as limber as a lot of you younger guys, and every little bit to ease entry and exit helps!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Lower deck height and/or more knee room.  Plus I can give the boat a much better looking deck line. Both of these are things I was never happy with on a couple of boats.  I have converted three boats to include a laminated beam as standard. I will probably change them all eventually.

Posted

Should I consider it on the two Ravenswoods I'm building?

Laminating a masik isn't difficult, neither is cutting a new bulkhead if the current one can't be modified.

I'd be interested in any opinions you have for putting one in the RW.

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