sjhBT99 Posted October 6, 2014 Posted October 6, 2014 I have recently purchased Ravenswood plans and have a few questions that I am hoping I can have the "experienced" respond to. I am new to boat building and am not a wood worker, but have built several RC aircraft which this appears to have similarities (proper alignment is critical to performance). I have looked through this forum but I did not see an answer for my questions below. Ravenswood plans have a bracket for frame labeled 13' 6" but the actual frame (bow frame with lashing holes) has 13' 5" printed on it. Should the bow frame have 13' 6" printed on it instead, or am I overlooking something in the way it is layed out? Coaming question: I noticed in a blog topic 3 boats in 6 days that there was very a nice looking boat with plywood coaming. After looking at this picture of this boat I am thinking of a Baltic Birch plywood coaming. Is the strength when using Baltic Birch ply comparable to the laminated method? I noticed also that the side supports for the coaming is not there indicating to me that a Baltic Birch Coaming is adequate. In my area (Northwest Ohio) I have found a company that specializes in Plywood. They list a price for Baltic Birch 5'x5' at $24.95 per sheet. My belief is that at this price the it would be the most inexpensive way to go for a coaming even with the amount of scrap. It may not be as visually appealing to the craftsmen out there. Thanks Quote
woodman Posted October 7, 2014 Posted October 7, 2014 If I were to make one out of BB the same dimensions as the ones I laminate from mapel, I'd bet the laminated one would out do any stress test you put the plywood through..... Quote
Hirilonde Posted October 7, 2014 Posted October 7, 2014 I have no doubt about this at all.................... If I were to make one out of BB the same dimensions as the ones I laminate from mapel, I'd bet the laminated one would out do any stress test you put the plywood through..... From a woodworking skill perspective the laminated Maple (or other hardwood) combing is the most difficult part of the build. I would think this is why Jeff offers a more simple solution, plywood. I have no doubt that a plywood combing built from Jeff's patterns or properly drawn from his off-sets is adequate. Quote
bwhip Posted October 7, 2014 Posted October 7, 2014 Ravenswood plans have a bracket for frame labeled 13' 6" but the actual frame (bow frame with lashing holes) has 13' 5" printed on it. Should the bow frame have 13' 6" printed on it instead, or am I overlooking something in the way it is layed out? Does anybody have any input on this? I have the same question on my Ravenswood. Quote
Kudzu Posted October 7, 2014 Posted October 7, 2014 The frame is supposed to be labeled 13' - 6 ". It was a typo that has been caught before but somehow never changed on the plans. I just fixed that. As for the coaming, the plywood coaming is extremely strong! You have roughly 1.5" of plywood stacked and it doesn't bend easy! I like the looks of the laminated coaming and as Dave said it is a lot more work to make one. The boats are designed for the plywood and the one I am making for my wife currently will have a plywood coaming. And so will the next one I build for myself. I think they look OK, just a bitbulky to my eye. But functionally they are fine. I am going to use bronze screws ($$$) on hers instead of stainless because I don't like the 'chrome' look of stainless. They list a price for Baltic Birch 5'x5' at $24.95 per sheet. That is a very good price for that! Typically it is $50 and sheet around here. I buy in bulk through a wholesaler and I don't get that cheap. Quote
sjhBT99 Posted October 7, 2014 Author Posted October 7, 2014 Jeff thank you for the clarification on Ravenswood prints. 13'- 6". Has anyone out there with the plywood coamings considered removing/substituting screws with sinew lashings? That being lashing/lacing sinew through the drilled holes (maybe adding more holes). Just something I was thinking about. Building an entire boat with nearly zero hardware in it, only to being surrounded by a ring of shiny screws has me thinking of trying something like this. I may experiment with some old ply before I get to that stage of the build if I am successful I can report back. Thank you all for your feedback. Quote
Action Tiger Posted October 7, 2014 Posted October 7, 2014 You might could use trunnels (treenails) to fasten the layers of ply together after gluing (they are glued, right?). Put them right through the screw holes after you take out the screws. That would be a dowel with a wedge inserted into a kerf in either end. They get used some in all manner of traditional boats. Like a wooden rivet of sorts. With contrasting colors of dowel and wedge, they look pretty, too. Would be MUCH easier than lashings, and you could ditch the metal bits. Just a thought. Quote
Kudzu Posted October 7, 2014 Posted October 7, 2014 Or run the screws in from the bottom so no one see's them. Quote
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