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sjhBT99

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  1. I started out using the jewelers twine Jeff sells it worked ok but I had a lot of thread snapping, Then I tried the sinew, I thought this broke easier than the jewelers twine. I finished my first Kayak with the jewelers twine doubled and it was better, but I still had some snapping. On my second Kayak tried the mason's twine and even though it appears heavier, I was still snapping as easy as the the jewelers thread when tugging the fabric tight. Then I tried some 65 lb spiderwire braided fish line, and decided it is the the way to go. I had zero breaks and found I was drawing the fabric really really tight. This stuff is thin and strong I use it doubled. over. This stuff is so strong I noticed that my gunwales were slightly bowed in between the frames because of pulling the double corded method. (It made for a nice tight finish) attached is a picture of ny cheapskate's thimble, It works really really well. (A 12 ga. shotshell hull cut down)
  2. When stitching up my boat(s). I discovered that a thimble is quite handy for pushing the needle through the four layers of heavy fabric. I just used what I had a 12 gauge shotgun shell cut down with a small piece of paper towel stuffed in the bottom. Fit my fingers just fine and works great. This helps me make real progress without having to reach for a dowel or other devise to push that needle.
  3. I started out using the jewelers twine Jeff sells it worked ok but I had a lot of thread snapping, Then I tried the sinew, I thought this broke easier than the jewelers twine. I finished my first Kayak with the jewelers twine doubled and it was better, but I still had some snapping. On my second Kayak tried the mason's twine and even though it appears heavier, I was still snapping as easy as the the jewelers thread when tugging the fabric tight. Then I tried some 65 lb spiderwire braided fish line, and decided it is the the way to go. I had zero breaks and found I was drawing the fabric really really tight. This stuff is thin and strong I use it doubled. over. attached is a picture of ny cheapskate's thimble, It works really really well. (A 12 ga. shotshell hull cut down)
  4. They are intended to be identical Ravenswood kayaks, although with the way the wood behaved one may have more sinew ties at bow and stern and perhaps a measuring error here or there. So from ten feet away they are identical in appearance. However, Up close lets just say they are unique in their own way.
  5. 1. 2. 3. 4. I have read on this forum that you can't build just one......................THEY ARE RIGHT! With a family of four, I thought there might be a chance I would want to build one for everyone, So I bought enough ply for Four boats just in case. After I started cutting the first boat's frames, I decided I would go for 4 frames while all the tools are out and the router set up. I tied boat #1 last fall. then #2,#3 and #4 this Summer with the help of a 15 year old son who wanted a project over summer break. (He was a huge help!) Benefits/Lessons learned so far: -It is nice to have a finished frame to look at when tying the next boat.- One time mess when oiling tied frames. ZIP TIES using zip ties to secure frames/stringers/gunwales when tying. We found it very beneficial to locate the proper location of the frames bungee'd together, then use Harbor freight (cheap) zip ties to hold all joints together before tying with sinew. We just cut off one zip tie at the joint you are tying at that time. You end up just throwing them all away but they are really cheap. and you don't have bungees in your way. TWO YEARS LATER: 10/01/16
  6. I will be using Boiled Linseed Oil to protect my frames and stringers. (no need to get into theories and benefits of one oil or another) My question are directed to those who have been using Boiled Linseed Oil on these skin on frame kayaks. The container of boiled Linseed oil suggests thinning it up to 2:1 with mineral spirits to ensure penetration into the wood. I have diluted 1:1 and brushed on small scraps of the plywood and it would appears to need several coats at this strength to be of much benefit (my opinion). 1. Do you experienced kayak builders reduce/thin the Boiled linseed oil with Mineral Spirits when brushing it on to the frames? 2. If you do reduce/thin it, how many coats are typically applied? 3. If you don't reduce/thin it with mineral spirits how many coats do you apply? 4. What is the yield (how many quarts of BOL per kayak) Thanks
  7. Woodman, do you have your foot peg dimensions or sketches you can share? These look very nice. Thanks Woodman, do you have your foot peg dimensions or sketches you can share? These look very nice. Thanks
  8. Jeff - I looked at the most recent post on your blog regarding lashing being complete. There were a few photos. Could you provide a couple more close-up photos of how you lashed several consecutive joint/stringers without tying off on this forum topic? How did it look on each side of the frame. Very interested in this method.
  9. Jeff thank you for the clarification on Ravenswood prints. 13'- 6". Has anyone out there with the plywood coamings considered removing/substituting screws with sinew lashings? That being lashing/lacing sinew through the drilled holes (maybe adding more holes). Just something I was thinking about. Building an entire boat with nearly zero hardware in it, only to being surrounded by a ring of shiny screws has me thinking of trying something like this. I may experiment with some old ply before I get to that stage of the build if I am successful I can report back. Thank you all for your feedback.
  10. I have recently purchased Ravenswood plans and have a few questions that I am hoping I can have the "experienced" respond to. I am new to boat building and am not a wood worker, but have built several RC aircraft which this appears to have similarities (proper alignment is critical to performance). I have looked through this forum but I did not see an answer for my questions below. Ravenswood plans have a bracket for frame labeled 13' 6" but the actual frame (bow frame with lashing holes) has 13' 5" printed on it. Should the bow frame have 13' 6" printed on it instead, or am I overlooking something in the way it is layed out? Coaming question: I noticed in a blog topic 3 boats in 6 days that there was very a nice looking boat with plywood coaming. After looking at this picture of this boat I am thinking of a Baltic Birch plywood coaming. Is the strength when using Baltic Birch ply comparable to the laminated method? I noticed also that the side supports for the coaming is not there indicating to me that a Baltic Birch Coaming is adequate. In my area (Northwest Ohio) I have found a company that specializes in Plywood. They list a price for Baltic Birch 5'x5' at $24.95 per sheet. My belief is that at this price the it would be the most inexpensive way to go for a coaming even with the amount of scrap. It may not be as visually appealing to the craftsmen out there. Thanks
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