acreew Posted March 30, 2013 Posted March 30, 2013 Hello. Just starting...had plans for 1 year. Have attempted to search forum for answers without success. 1. How to scarf different thicknesses of ply? 2. Bought fiberglass cloth that is 12 inches wide. Any problem with cutting this to get the 3 inch width called for taping the seams? Thanks. Have loved reading the posts. Appreciate any help. Will Quote
PAR Posted March 30, 2013 Posted March 30, 2013 If you're referring to the bottom panel transition, in the forefoot, then why make a scarf? Use the Payson butt joint and skip all the careful machining stuff. This joint is covered in the plans. If insisting on a scarf, it's the same as any scarf, except you'll have a thinner portion at one end. Use a scarf angle, developed from the thinner piece, not the thicker. Quote
acreew Posted March 31, 2013 Author Posted March 31, 2013 Thanks PAR...will look into butt joint. With any joint wont it result in a "lip"/uneven area on one side? Is this a problem? Quote
PeterP Posted March 31, 2013 Posted March 31, 2013 Just make sure the step ends up INSIDE the boat then no one will notice. Good luck PeterP Quote
acreew Posted April 1, 2013 Author Posted April 1, 2013 Will do...thanks to all for the responses....I apologize in advance for simple questions... Quote
PAR Posted April 1, 2013 Posted April 1, 2013 Never apologize for asking about something you need an answer for. You'll never get what you don't ask for. If this is the joint you're referring to (the bottom panels in the forefoot), then as mentioned, leave the notched portion facing inboard. You can smooth this over with a pool of thickened goo and some tape later. Boat building is about problem solving, often on the fly as the goo's wet and waiting on your decisions. You will have solved many problems and issues, in the course of this project. Fortunately, there are many here that have stumbled over the exact problems you will, previously on their own builds. Many will have a different approach, some better then others, but ultimately, you'll have to make the decision. As a rule, the simplest way is usually the better one, unless you're English and/or like to tinker with Jaguar V12's. Quote
Designer Posted April 1, 2013 Posted April 1, 2013 PAR is correct about putting the smooth side out and the step in thickness on the inside. What I show in the plans is to plane off about 1/2 the step thickness and fill the rest with thickened epoxy before glassing the inside. Another quick tip, I prefer to glass both sides of a butt tape joint at the same time as it is quicker to do and it is strong as soon as the epoxy has cured. When one side is glassed and cured, the joint is only half strong. What I mean is that when you turn that large floppy panel over, if the panel is bent away from the glassed side, it is just as about as strong as if both sides were glassed, but if the joint is bent the other way (with the unglassed side in tension) it is very weak and could break. If you glass one side at a time, be very careful not to stress the unglassed side when turning the panel over. Quote
acreew Posted April 2, 2013 Author Posted April 2, 2013 Thanks much for the replies and encouragement. Scarfed the side panels today will hopefully get to bottoms and forefoot tomorrow. Definitely a learning process and very glad for this forum. Glad you mentioned glassing both sides simultaneously... Was going to go the long way but will attempt it. Thanks again for the support. Talk soon. Btw how do you attach pictures? Quote
ecgossett Posted April 2, 2013 Posted April 2, 2013 Make sure you read Wes's http://www.roguepaddler.com/coresound20.htm there was another good article on building a CS17 up here in WA that I can't find. I built mine in almost the same order as Wes's using his site as reference for some spots where the plans needed more description. My favorite two tools where the Japanese Hand Saw, and Dremel Multi-Max (buy the warranty). My favorite instrument was the yellow angle finder from Lowes that can be used in a variety of positions. Quote
acreew Posted April 2, 2013 Author Posted April 2, 2013 Yeah, I have read Wes' detailed account multiple times and have it downloaded in a separate document for quick reference. Its funny though, now that I am starting to build.....I often cant put 2 thoughts together and just want to move forward. Trying hard to slow down and think things through, but not easy. Thanks much for the tool tips. Will Quote
acreew Posted April 15, 2013 Author Posted April 15, 2013 Ok. Update with hope for reassurance. 1. side and bottom panels scarfed and cut out. Did not cut out panels together. Bottom panels are mirror images...whew! Side panels however are a different story. All stations on both panels are correct within 1-2 16ths and general shape appears consistent with plans for both. However, when placed on top of each other, the edges vary from 1/16 up to nearly 8/16. Panels were cut with mini circular saw (battery.....awesome tool) and brought to the lines with jack/block plane. The variance appears alternatively on both sides. BTW....I had to scarf an addition on one of the sides as the first one snapped in my hands near the middle joint when I attempted to rotate it (wood...not epoxy)....appeared secondary to excessive sanding with a &*^%)* orbital sander. Is this a big cause for concern.....does this require redoing a side panel before attaching to bottoms? 2. Transom and aft bulkhead also cut out. Enjoying build very much at this point. Scarfs were definitely a learning experience, but satisfying....mostly. Thank you. Will be attaching panels this weekend hopefully and whatever else I can think to do. Any recommendations, comments, etc. are very much appreciated. Will Quote
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