Kudzu Posted January 6, 2012 Posted January 6, 2012 I try to ship the next day. If you place your order in the morning (depending on what you want) I will often ship the same day. Biggest thing with your jig is you need to get rid of all the base on the right side of the saw blade. Run it though the saw and that way it will be flush with the blade. Then the cut off will fall onto the table instad of staying on the sled. It would be very hard, but not impossible, for the cut off to get caught by the back of the saw blade if it is on the table, on the sled if you can pull it right back into the blade and witll be launched at you. Quote
woodman Posted January 7, 2012 Posted January 7, 2012 To have a way to blow the pc. that falls off next to the blade is a good idea...Or shut the saw down after each cut... If the sliding table were to "some way" be left intact on the right side of the blade only beveled away from the blade so as to cause the fall-off pc. to slide away frome the blade would be handy... Quote
Hirilonde Posted January 7, 2012 Posted January 7, 2012 ...Or shut the saw down after each cut... That is a nuisance to do. If the sliding table were to "some way" be left intact on the right side of the blade only beveled away from the blade so as to cause the fall-off pc. to slide away frome the blade would be handy... I doubt you could get any where near enough slope for the cut off to slide. There are several cardinal rules of using a table saw: 1. Use a push stick or such aid whenever fingers would get close to the blade. 2. Never use the rip fence and sliding bevel at the same time to cut through material. (I can elaborate on a safer option if anyone would like) 3. Jig(s) should be on one side or the other, not both, of the blade, unless the piece moves away from one before cutting begins. (Alignment and cutting jigs can be used together safely on seperate sides if the piece moves away from the alignment jig before cutting begins.) 4. Repetitive cuts are often the most dangerous as care is often forgotten in the repetition There are certainly more safety practices, but these are often not understood and therefore not practiced. Quote
Kudzu Posted January 7, 2012 Posted January 7, 2012 If the sliding table were to "some way" be left intact on the right side of the blade only beveled away from the blade so as to cause the fall-off pc. to slide away frome the blade would be handy... I can see no reason to leave the table on both sides of the blade. It's just asking to get hurt. With the sled having zero clearance (being against the blade) it makes it extremly hard for the cut off to behind the blade once it falls down on the saw table. Not impossible, but extremly unlikely. Quote
woodman Posted January 8, 2012 Posted January 8, 2012 Here is a "mock-up" of what I had in-mind...This in where the pc. automatically falls away from the blade. Quote
Lombard Posted January 8, 2012 Author Posted January 8, 2012 2. Never use the rip fence and sliding bevel at the same time to cut through material. (I can elaborate on a safer option if anyone would like) I for one would like. Thank you. Quote
Hirilonde Posted January 8, 2012 Posted January 8, 2012 Many people are tempted to use the rip fence as a measuring jig when cutting multiple pieces to the same size with the sliding bevel. They put the stock along the sliding bevel then up to the rip fence and then cut. The cut off piece is now between the blade and the fence and will quite likely be thrown. It is also posslble that any slips in pressure while making the cut will bind the stock between the fence and the blade and throw the whole thing back at you. If you need to use a guide for multiple cuts clamp a piece of wood to the rip fence such that the stock can be slid onto the sliding bevel, then up to this piece of wood (thus measuring it for you) but such that in the process of making the cut the stock moves past and off the measuring jig before it reaches the blade of the saw. This way your cut off is never physically constrained by the fence and blade at the same time. Quote
Kudzu Posted January 8, 2012 Posted January 8, 2012 Yea, I am going to harp on this. You need to clamp your peice your cutting and you need to run the base all the way through the saw and get rid of that material on the side of the blade. It serves NO puprose being there. Plus what the other said too. Quote
Lombard Posted January 9, 2012 Author Posted January 9, 2012 Got a couple steps closer last weekend. Built the two saw horses, finished laying out the frames, and got them cut out. Need to purchase a 1/4 round over bit, and the material to build the strong back next time to the lumber yard. Didn't cut the arcs bettween stringers because I figureed the sixty grit belt on the stationary sander will make quick work of sanding to the line. That is all the progress for now. Quote
Lombard Posted January 9, 2012 Author Posted January 9, 2012 Meant to post this photo, but forgot to add it. Quote
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