Questions on finishing the kayak

[kayak278]

Hi Jeff....

Thanks for the great videos and forum! I'll be ordering some polyester from you in a few weeks as the weather gets warmer and I have a few questions on the finishing process: (would also love to hear advice from the other experienced users here, as this is my first build)

1. What material do you use for sewing the skin on.... sinew? 45lb test fishing line? other?

2. I love the two tone paint on the Sling Shot....did you tape it off in order to get the nice line between the black and red or did you free hand it?

3. What has worked well for you in applying the paint....disposable brushes? rollers?

4. When installing deck line hardware, do you screw directly through the skin or do you use some sort of sealant? Also, when installing bow and stern grab loops... is there a special way to seal where the lines pass through the skin and the gunwales?

Thanks!

Matt S.

[Kudzu]

1. What material do you use for sewing the skin on.... sinew? 45lb test fishing line? other?

I have used sinew and so have lots of other people. Never heard of anyone having a problem but because it is waxed I know a finish is not going to stick to it. So I found a small supply of a braided polyester, probably 50-60 test. I really like sewing with it better than anything else I have used.

I am looking for a good supplier but have not found one yet. But I have a lead on one.

2. I love the two tone paint on the Sling Shot....did you tape it off in order to get the nice line between the black and red or did you free hand it?

I love the looks of that boat too. But if I had free handed it you would know it! I put on the Red first since it was on the bottom, the boat is upside down and paint runs downhill. Once that had a couple of days to dry I tapped of the line with a 3M high adhesion tape. I got it at a Sherwin Williams paint store. The problem is that the skin has a texture so you have to make sure you tape sticks well of you end up with runs under the tape. I learned that on Long Shot. This tape worked extremely well. I just had a couple of small areas to touch up and I have found that fairly easy to do with a disposable foam brush. The foam is stiff enough to run down a edge if you have a steady hand.

Oh, forgot to mention that when I taped it off I used a dowel of some with a round edge and light burnished the edge of the tape to make sure it was fully adhered to he boat.

3. What has worked well for you in applying the paint....disposable brushes? rollers?

What ever you are comfortable with. I often use the larger dia, 3" wide roller and then follow up with a disposable foam brush. I have been a die hard user of bristle brushes but the more I use the foam brushes the more I like them. Rollers will leave some areas with more paint than others and I find the brushes are good for evening it out. Next one I may skip the roller and just use a larger foam brush.

4. When installing deck line hardware, do you screw directly through the skin or do you use some sort of sealant? Also, when installing bow and stern grab loops... is there a special way to seal where the lines pass through the skin and the gunwales?

What I prefer to do is heat up a nail and melt a small hole so the fabric doesn't try to fray on me. I put some Lexel Caulking around the screw to keep water from getting in and drive it in. You do want to seal any openings you make. You don't want water to get trapped.

On the painters I try to keep my hole close to the size of the line and I apply some Lexel around it. I use something (my finger most times) and try to work it into the opening as best as I can.

[KenP]

Jeff,

Do you stick to the "sinew" for lashing?

Ken

[Kudzu]

Jeff,

Do you stick to the "sinew" for lashing?

Ken

Absolutely! I have not found anything better for lashing. I assume it is because of the wax, but once you have 3 or 4 turns around the joint and you let off the tension it doesn't relax, but stays tight. The braided lines will loosen up. I did a few joints with some once and cut them out and replaced it with sinew.

[kayak278]

Tomorrow is skinning day, using some of your polyester and super excited to finally finish my boat. Two more questions:

1. I'm skinning at a different location than where I will be painting and was wondering if any rain will affect the un-coated polyester during transport?

2. What kind of a ratio do you use, or what consistency do you look for when adding acetone to your first coat of oil base paint?

[Kudzu]

1. I'm skinning at a different location than where I will be painting and was wondering if any rain will affect the un-coated polyester during transport?

2. What kind of a ratio do you use, or what consistency do you look for when adding acetone to your first coat of oil base paint?

I am not sure but I wouldn't think that rain would hurt anything. Just make sure the the boat and this included the frame were totally dry before painting. I would just wait till there was no rain to move it. Then you don't have to worry about it. To much in it to mess up now.

As for thinning it is really hard to describe. I just thin it till it looks right to me, it doesn't take a lot. It's not water thin by any means! My best suggestion is add the thinner in small amounts. A little goes a long ways. You could apply a little and then stick you head in the cockpit and see if it looks fairly even on the inside. If the color is really uneven then you probably need to thin it a little more. The main reason I thin the first coat is make it soak in better so it looks good when some looks in the cockpit.

[Hirilonde]

............. or what consistency do you look for when adding acetone to your first coat of oil base paint?

Acetone as a thinner for oil based paints? Are they (the paint mfgs.)recommending this now? I have always used turpentine or mineral spirits based thinners.

[Kudzu]

Acetone as a thinner for oil based paints? Are they (the paint mfgs.)recommending this now? I have always used turpentine or mineral spirits based thinners.

That is what Rustoleum is thinned with. Why? I dunno.

If I remember correctly, it was Rustoleum I thinned some with something else and it gummed and wouldn't mix in. had to dispose of it.

[dbirkmei]

What about the finish on the frame?

I am building a 11 ft Yost Werks Sea Flea for my son and have been using recycled redwood for stringers and mahogany plywood for the frames. The plywood is not marine stock so I have been using epoxy seal them. I see that the frames are typically oil finished and wonder if epoxy sealing instead would yield any issues other than overkill.

My building technique is a little bit of Yost and Kudzu as I have epoxied, pegged and lashed all my joints.

I have built a Guillemot cedar strip and Pygmy Coho SG. I love my other boats but can't wait to put this new one on the water. Your videos are very helpful.

Thanks

Dave.

[Kudzu]

It would really be overkill. Plus it add weight and expense. I have neve done anything but oil and never had a problem. Just don't leave water in the boat.