lapwing hull #7

[DeanHerring]

I painted Lapwing with eurethane Brightside while trying to get away from the trials of LPU.  I think Brightside is an over priced and under performing paint.  Disappears with any little scratch or rub and mildews worse than any paint I have used.  While covered with a tarp, the outside with Brightside mildewed badly while the interior, painted with Devoe epoxy had narry a sign of any mold.  I hear much better reports from Rustoleum and porch paint.  If the colors are suitable I might try tractor or farm implement paint since it is fairly inexpensive and pretty tough.

Tom, Do you think that "Disappears with any little scratch or rub and mildews" had anything to do with the conditions when you painted the boat = too hot, cold, dry, or humid? OR a bad batch of paint? Dean

[Mike Vacanti]

I used Brightsides on my Bolger Junebug. The primer was Interlux 404/414, an epoxy. I had the same experience as Tom, the Brightsides has very little abrasion resistance. On the other hand the 404/414 is very tough. I have made extensive modifications to the boat and have had to remove paint in several areas so I could glue in pieces of wood or fiberglass cloth. The Brightsides was easy to remove with just a few passes with a carbide scraper. The 404/414 took serious effort with a RO sander loaded with a 40 grit disk.

[Tom Lathrop]

Dean,

I have used Brightside several times.  On the interior of our cruising powerboat it seems tough enough for this job.  However, it does mildew easily and I get tired of cleaning it up each spring.

On the bottom of a small boat, it scrubs off too easily for my tastes but I'v3e seen no mildew there.  Maybe because that color is black.  On lapwing the results are as I have said and there was no issue with environmental conditions in any of the cases.  If I could find an epoxy paint like the Devoe 4508 that gave a nice gloss finish and did not chalk, I would probably never use anything else.  The price is right at ~$30/gal and it is as tough as nails.

[sscoville]

Tom: where do you get Devoe?

[Tom Lathrop]

Tom: where do you get Devoe?

Used to be Glidden which became Devoe and now both are part of ICI.  This is an industrial paint used on water tanks and bridges and very similar to garage floor paint.  I'm sure Sherwin Williams among others have similar paints.  I use it on decks and open boat interiors.  Roll it on with a short-nap roller which leaves a slightly pebbly not so glossy finish.  Since it comes only in a basic white, colors available with added colorant are a little limited.

[herbt]

Tom,  The nights have been so cold i have had to curtail any large scale epoxy work so i have moved on to the center board and rudder.

Based on your experiance, would you weight the center board? how much would you think is needed?

Herb

[/img]

[Tom Lathrop]

It is not necessary to add weight to the CB but I am planing to do thatsince I think it will make it easier to handle.  I got along OK with Loon and Lapwing without the weight but intend to try it.

How much? I don't know but it could be calculated if you know the volume and weight of the finished board.  The easiest way will be to float the CB and see how much weight it takes to sink it.  I'd then add a pound or two and go with that.  You don't need to know the weight of the glass and epoxy sheath since that will add just a wee bit to the sinking weight.

[DeanHerring]

so, do we also want to weight the rudder down as well? I thought I saw something about a line to keep the rudder down. Why would one want such a line if the idea is to have a kick-up rudder. I know I had a line to hold the rudder down in the Precision 185, thoughts?

Dean

[Ken_Potts]

I think bungee cord or one of those kick-up cleats would be preferable to weight in the rudder.  Bungee cord is my first choice.

[DeanHerring]

I think bungee cord or one of those kick-up cleats would be preferable to weight in the rudder.  Bungee cord is my first choice.

oh yeah - right - that's what was on the Precision - a kick up cleat-