Laid out lines for a Spindrift 10N - in Waterloo, ON

[wayfarer3130]

I picked up my plywood this weekend, ordered the epoxy fibreglass, and laid out the lines for a Spindrift 10N.  I'm trying to get everything in the hull cut out before snow arrives so that I can move things to the basement to assemble over the winter.  This is my first boat I've built, although it will be the fourth or fifth boat (sailboats and kayaks) I've owned.  She, "Wee Dram", will be a tender for an Alberg 30 "Chewan".  Chewan came with an inflating dinghy on it's last legs, and I want something I can sail and row - currently I don't plan on an outboard if I can avoid one - I don't mind rowing or sailing a distance.

Things so far that have worked well:

1. Drywall square - I think I would have gone batty without this - BUY one if you don't have one for laying out all your lines, it makes then easy to draw/manage.

2. Balsa sticks for creating fair curves - just long enough to attach to 3 points at a time, draw the middle 1/2 of the stick, and then continue.

3. Carpenter pencil sharpener - from lee valley or from home depot now - makes it much easier to get a clean point.

Things that surprised me?

The marine plywood I bought is 96 1/2" x 48 1/2" NOT 8' x 4'. 

The instructions say 1' of 1x6, but in fact 9' is needed.

How much enjoyment I'm already getting out of building this boat.  I knew I wanted a hard shell dinghy and I didn't like the commercial options - although the folding options looked very interesting, so building seemed necessary, but I find I'm enjoying it more than I expected.

Things I'm going to try/do?

Cut the gunnel from 2x8 rather than trying to figure out how to edge-cut 1x2 material - besides which, the 2x8 I found was clear, but the 1x2 was all jointed wood 8' maximum length.

Try a thin-kerf ripping blade from Freud.

Cut the gunnel to width,  bulkheads/doublers and stern as assembled/glued components to get exact alignment and clean cuts.  I will leave 1/8-1/4" or so on my cuts to allow the final size to be cut once assembled.

Try Bristol finish for the brightwork.

I haven't yet decided how much brightwork to include - it looks awfully nice, and the 2 part bristol finish is supposed to last quite well, so I might try doing the interior & gunnels to the waterloo, and then paint below the waterline.  Has anyone else tried finishing their boat with Bristol Amber?

Bill

[lbrewer]

I used Bristol for the first time on a spindrift 10N I built earlier this year.  There is a bit of a learning curve in applying it evenly (read that as it is a PITA at first), but it turns out beautiful and hard.  Thinning with acetone helped me.  I had to add a cap full of it about every 3 or 4 minutes to the mixed bristol to keep it viscous enough to work with.  So far it has held up very well, but I don't have long term results first hand.

One thing you should know is that it is very very very volatile.  The fumes are bad even in a well ventilated shop.  If you are applying it in the basement put on your SCUBA gear and make everyone upstairs go visit grandma till it cures.  :pale:  Seriously, applying it outside is a strong recommendation.

[Hirilonde]

  She, "Wee Dram", will be a tender for an Alberg 30 "Chewan".  Chewan came with an inflating dinghy on it's last legs, and I want something I can sail and row - currently I don't plan on an outboard if I can avoid one - I don't mind rowing or sailing a distance.

An Alberg 30 is a sweet classic and I think you will find the Spindrift 10N the perfect tender.  I did exactly what you are about to do for the  very same reasons.  After you have sailed into a harbour on your cruise, have dropped anchor and made all the necessary precautions to feel safe and secure, you have rigged your dinghy, mixed your self a cocktail, and you begin your late afternoon/evening sailing cruise about the harbor in your Spindrift you will know for sure you have made a good decision.  Best of luck to you on your build.

[Clung]

Hi Bill - I should introduce myself.  We are a Canadian family of four, currently in Alaska, been cruising here since 2005 aboard Gentle Wind, an Endurance 35.  I'm new to the forum, but am building a 10N to replace an old, heavy Sorensen dinghy that has served us well but the idea of taking "your late afternoon/evening sailing cruise about the harbor in your Spindrift" with my kids who have just turned 9 is something that has appealed to me for many years.  This winter we have fallen into the good fortune of house sitting for friends we met on the water that are now heading for Mexico and have their house in Anchorage vacant.  His woodshop/garage has given me the opportunity to take on this project, and though I'm only at the filleting/taping stage so far it has been a lot of fun.  I think you will find your build extremely satisfying, and the plans so far have been awesome.  I'm very thrilled with the design, and I'm sure you will be too.  All the best!

Clarence

[lbrewer]

Bill,

My vote is with both Dave and Clarence.  I think you'll find the spindrift is a good choice.

Clarence,

It sounds as though your cruise/build adventure deserves a thread of its own.  I'm sure many of us would love to hear about it. 

Larry

[wayfarer3130]

I folded out the butterfly this last weekend and wired the boat - what a job that is.  I started with wiring with fairly light copper wire and switched to house wire in order to be able to pull the joins tight.  Last night I started putting on the rubrails - that is also harder than I expected as I've had to cut relief cuts to allow the rail to bend enough.  Most of the parts seem to fit fairly well, although I would have liked a slightly higher side near the middle to try to get a straighter rubrail.  The boat seems pretty straight - a center line goes within 2 mm of the marked bulkhead centers and stern center and within the same amount on a diagonal to the stern corners and the dividing bulkhead corners.  Since I have two of the rubrails attached and some of the seams epoxy tacked in place, it doesn't look likely that it will shift much. 

Next task is to glue the last rubrail, finish all the epoxy tacks and then remove the rest of the wires.  After that, adding the fillet and fibreglass to all the seams, turn it over and do the bottom seams and then the scary bit - cut the boat in half.  I need to cut the boat before I do too much trim work as I can't get it out of my basements to do any larger cuts that generate lots of sawdust :-)

I'm debating whether to add an extra doubler to the area under the oarlocks - that always seems to be weak in a boat - alternatively, a fibreglass stiffener or two for 40 cm and 20 cm just under that area but on the outside would likely work.  I prefer to be able to row fairly strongly and that puts a lot of torque on the sides.

Bill.

[Hirilonde]

I'm debating whether to add an extra doubler to the area under the oarlocks - that always seems to be weak in a boat - alternatively, a fibreglass stiffener or two for 40 cm and 20 cm just under that area but on the outside would likely work.  I prefer to be able to row fairly strongly and that puts a lot of torque on the sides.

My oarlocks are mounted to a block attached to the hull inside of the gunwale.  It was required due to the design of the oarlock.  It adds no strength to anything, just the means for installing the oarlock.  I row my Spindrift a lot, to and from my mooring every time I go sailing on my Renegade.  There isn't even the slightest bit of flexing.  Do what makes you comfortable, but I don't think you need to exceed the specs in the plans.