Progress on CS17

[SUKIE]

Good morning everyone,

I've been trying to post photos of my progress, but to no avail. I hope I have more luck with the boat building!

Anyway, I've stitched up all the seams, inserted the forward and temp bulkheads, and am ready to glue in the inwales which I gather is the next step.

?#1: Do I need to cut an 8:1 scarf joint in the inwales to make a 17+foot piece, then glue in the whole thing at once? Or, can I just make 45degrees joints and glue in the pieces as I go along?

?#2: I've marked a center line on the 2 bulkheads and ran a string from the bow to the CL on the temp bulkhead. The center line mark on the forward bulkhead is about 3/8" from the string, so the hull is not perfectly aligned. Do I need to worry about it at this time, or do I continue with the inwales, seam filets, keelson, and so forth. At what point does it need to be perfect?

I'm learning tons of usefull info on this forum, thanks to all and keep it coming!

[Randy C.]

Sukie,

Don't take my word for it, but my vote would be a 45 degree should be OK.

As far as lining up your CL. I'm just starting on a CS17 and it's my first boat build, but when I get to that point I will try my best to keep it lined up as I go. The more structure you add the harder I would think that it will be to line it back up. For what it's worth, that's my two cents.

[Designer]

Sukie,

45 degree cuts are just butt joins pretending to be scarfs. The object is to keep the sheer line smooth and fair and maintain strength. If you butt or scarf in place  you will lack the stiffness of the inwale at the joint and you are depending on 1/4" ply to keep the sheer fair which it can't do. Cut the 8:1 taper and glue the inwales up flat and straight and when you put them in place you will have uniform stiffness all along the sheer.

Don't be in a hurry to glue the chines and centerline because you get to keep any problems that you did not address. When the inwales are glued in the boat will be fair and the hull will be close to its final shape. before you fillet and tape the seams you need to make sure that the seams are tight and fair and there is no twist in the boat. The 3/8" could be caused by a twist in the hull or the sides at the bow are not even.

Put the inwales in first making sure that the sides are even at the bow. Level the boat by putting a straight edge to support a level across the sheer at the transom, then go to the temporary frame and then to the forward bulkhead. You should be able to get the centerline closer than 3/8" off.

[Randy C.]

Graham,

Thanks for setting me straight on scarfs. After thinking about it, it makes total sense. I would have done it wrong.

[SUKIE]

OK, I'm still making progress. I've gotten the keelson installed and the forward bulkhead. Next I'll attach the deck beams to the transom and rear bulkhead, thus my question: Is it OK to use 3/4" plywood for those deck beams?

I really appreciate all the advise this forum has offered. After all, I was never given the opportunity to take "Shop" in high school! (But oh, can I ever sew a mean skirt.)

[Peter HK]

Hi Sukie

I think it would be better not to use ply for beams. A number of the veneers have the fibres going the wrong way and would would not be as strong as 3/4 inch timber where the grain is in the right direction . Maybe the safety factors designed in would cope but personally I wouldn't do it.

Peter HK

[SUKIE]

Thankyou Ray, it's nice to hear from another "kit builder". I sort of suspected as much, but I'm trying to use up odd bits of lumber I have around and would like to get rid of the plywood. But, can I use clear pine instead?

PS, where are you on your build?