capt jake Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Just playing around with stuff tonight. Trying to decide how to rig it. Dead eyes are more work, but they look pretty cool. What do you think?? how to rig the shrouds??? Quote
buck Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Lovely job, they look great, I just used the bolt at the bottom (as in the photo) and bolted them straight on to the chain plates, alternatively use a small shackle (this turns them the right way). I had no trouble with mine and I think they are even more practical than a turnbuckle. Its one of those things that work really well. Quote
capt jake Posted February 21, 2003 Author Posted February 21, 2003 More practical than a turnbuckle, I like that!! I guess I will continue with them. I had a mountain of dust on them last night when I found them. Hey Buck, I can't quite make out the details in the Avatar of the Weekender. Can you post a larger photo so's we can take a gander at it??? Please???? Quote
Knut Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Jake, they look fantastic!! I have never considered how to rig with deadeyes because I took the short and simple route using swageless Danish turnbuckles and other fittings. Took less than 5 minutes per stay, but they are far from your elegance par excellense. Congratulations on job well done. Quote
capt jake Posted February 21, 2003 Author Posted February 21, 2003 Well, uh...Thanks all! :oops: Ray, how do you adjust the tension if you are using an 8? Shouldn't it be more of a clove hitch or something (sorry, can't think of the other hitch options, though there are many) along that line, as adjustable?? Quote
capt jake Posted February 21, 2003 Author Posted February 21, 2003 So Ray, help me out here, I am trying to read your mind... The final figure eight is tied after averything is tensioned?? You have to untie it every time you want to re-tension?? Is this a reasonable perseption of what you are trying to say?? In other words; no sliding hitches to allow tensioning, correct?? Quote
capt jake Posted February 21, 2003 Author Posted February 21, 2003 Ray, it is hard to read, when you include your response within the quote. If it is a quote, i generally ignore it (if I know wht is or has been said there). Would Polyster 3 strand work, or would a double braid polyester be better?? I don't know of a local supplier of Dacron 3 strand, but I do have a line on 3 strand buf polyester. Quote
Knut Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Jake, you end up with a number of turns between your deadeyes (all of them with some tension) and a free end after going through the last hole. It is possible to tie the free end securely and without any risk of sliding on the tensioned part, using the right simple knot. This one is even very easy to open up after heavy loading. I have attached 4 pictures that should show how to do it. The trick is to get on the left side of the first loop (from the camera's perspective) when you go through with the free end the second time (picture 2 and 3). When there is some tension in the fixed part you may have to use some force to squeeze in and lock the knot. The last hitch around the tensioned part (picture 4) is not actually part of the knot and need not be tightened at all, but should be used to avoid accidental opening of the knot. When you find out how it works, you will also see how easy and quick it is to open. I find this knot extremely practical for a number of such situations. Good luck [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote
Knut Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Last picture (only 3 attachments allowed) [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote
capt jake Posted February 21, 2003 Author Posted February 21, 2003 looks like a simple half hitch on top of (what I asume to be) the dead eye. Is this right? I guess I am looking at too many traditional pictures, where they are tied if to the standing part of the line (tensioned). Maybe this is a mute point also, who knows??? Quote
capt jake Posted February 21, 2003 Author Posted February 21, 2003 Yes it is better. I think you were putting your responses within hte 'quoted' area, thus it looks like 'I' said it. I guess I could mail order, are you saying that poly is not good for this. I know it stretched more than Dacron.... How about double braid poly?? Still no good?? Quote
Tim Diebert Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Hey I recognise that knot. I never had a name for it. I use it all the time. Damn...and I thought I invented it. :cry: Works great for lots of stuff, but I use it for my topping lift mostly. Jake. Those deadeyes look great. Nice job. The brass work is cool. I always thought those things looked a little silly on these boats...but they seem very practical. You all seem to think they work great. It would sure beat those lumber yard turnbuckles for looks. Another thing too...I have had my turnbuckles work loose more than once. Once came right apart one time...while sailing. Of course it was on the lee side...and there are two stays after all. But still. Those deadeye jobbies would not vibrate loose. Sitting here...having not set foot in my boat since October....talking about sailing...I'm getting a little misty eyed. :cry: But it could be the Crown Royal kicking in too? :shock: Do you have to grease those things up a bit? Quote
Frank Hagan Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Beautiful Jake! Are those stainless hoops on the deadeyes? They look great. Quote
T. Nelson Surbrook Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 John, Very simple here, take out your copy of The Marlinspike Sailor by Hervey Garrrett Smith and look on page 71. This is the triditional way to do it and it works very well. I used this method with 100% success. Quote
Gordy Hill Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Wow, If I HAD rigging, I think I'd consider deadeyes. That knot looks like the one used for tying down airplanes. ...........................(Is it legalto use an 'airplane knot' on a sailboat?) Quote
Knut Posted February 21, 2003 Posted February 21, 2003 Wow' date=' If I HAD rigging, I think I'd consider deadeyes.That knot looks like the one used for tying down airplanes. ...........................(Is it [i']legal[/i]to use an 'airplane knot' on a sailboat?) Gordy, I am willing to bet that this "airplane knot" was in use on sailing ships long before Orville and Wright tried to fight gravity. Of course, that would not prevent the start of a legal battle amongst highly paid lawyers over the legality question you mention. Quote
Guest buckblake Posted February 22, 2003 Posted February 22, 2003 Jake, you can see the picture of my avatar by clicking " My Gallery" above, I've got a few more to put on, next time I'm near a scanner. I used some of that thickish multibraid and leave them quite slack. They tighten up to windward however. Quote
Bill Posted February 22, 2003 Posted February 22, 2003 Jake, How did you route out the outside of those...Jig? I tried playing with a few a while back and never came up with a good solution. I had more than one fly apart dangerously around the shop...Nice job...Did the brass come from a long strip and you hacked it up? Details man, details.... Bill Quote
capt jake Posted February 22, 2003 Author Posted February 22, 2003 Bill, I turned the slots and grooves on my wood lathe, though it can easily be done on a drill press. i will take a shot of the setup here in a bit to show you. It realy works slick!! The bronze is a door kick plate I found at a salvage yard. It is 1/8" thck and solid Bronze. I cut the strips on the band saw, dressed the edges with a sanding disk and then used a polishing wheel with a polishing compound. It cuts really easy. I also have portlight rings made out of the same material. The steel vertical rod is your tool rest. Chuck the disks into the press with a bolt and nylock locking washer. Make sure to clap the tool rest firmly in place This is the same setup that got me started in lathe work. I turned over 35 wooden pens this way (with some other simple midifications and mandrels). Does this answer the question?? I also turned some UHMW bearing for the rudder box and goose neck this way. Oh, use a scraper for this if you have never done turning before. They are a LOT more forgiving!! Matter of fact, I wouldn't use anything but a scraper in this setup, as the bolt will be too soft to take any 'hits' if the gouge grabs it. Quote
Tim Diebert Posted February 22, 2003 Posted February 22, 2003 Excellent Jake. Nice work for sure. For a person without a lathe or drill press I would suggest this: Make the round...or not so round block. (this way you could made your block oval or eliptical shaped) Finish sand the edges. Don't radius the edges yet. You can let in the groove with a straight bit with a correct sized o.d bearing and keeper on the shank of the bit. The bearing od, in relation to the cutter od, will determine your depth of cut. Chuck that in a table router and just go slow, take light passes and be careful. Don't do the whole length of cut at once, use a shorter (cutting surface) bit and go from both faces. Quote
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