trailer bunk pads

[Scott H.]

Does anyone have a good idea for covering boat trailer bunk pads so they do not rub through the bottom paint?  I just finished my Spindrift 10 and after trailering it on a towel padded bunk had major abrasions through the paint.  I think carpet would also sand throught the finish.  The trailer is a hand-me-down and home made.  The bunks are made of 2x6 boards.  Would foam pipe insulation work? 

I am very happy with the spindrift. What a fun boat to sail.  We had a wonderful weekend at Lake Tahoe for the maiden voyage.  I will post pictures later. Thanks, Scott

[Greg Luckett]

I think Ray may be right.  I have trailered a variety of boats and not had that problem, even with the anti-fouling paints.  I have used the material made for bunks as well as indoor/outdoor carpet, and rollers too.  Please keep us informed of what you discover caused it?

Thanks,

Greg

[Scott Dufour]

I use UHMW plastic strips on my bunks, and they're very, very, slick.  Highly recommended.

[Greg Luckett]

Scott,

I do not know what those are.  Where do you get them?

Thanks,

Greg.

[Hirilonde]

Scott,

I do not know what those are.  Where do you get them?

Thanks,

Greg.

The most popular brand of UHMW plastic is King Starboard.  Hear is a web site I found just now.  http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/king_starboard.htm  Its really expensive stuff, but does have some great applications.  Don't believe a lot of the hype the manufacturer or distributors give out.  It is not "the marine lumber" as Kellogg Marine Supply touts it.  I can see where strips of it rounded over on all exposed corners might work really well as skids for trailer bunkers.  You won't get a cushioning like carpet etc., but it sure is slick and resilient.

[Gordy Hill]

When I had my CS17 we often launched off a causeway into about a foot of water. With a tilting trailer it took two of us with each putting a sholder under the chines to get the boat off the trailer when the bunks were covered with carpet. Loading with the winch appeared to put a lot of strain on the hull where it contacted the bunks.

My friend's shop occasionally uses large sheets of plastic about 5/8 inch thick that look a lot like the matrial used for cutting boards. I covered my bunks with it and rounded the edges with a router. The boat could be launched with one person and usually one-handed. It slid right back onto the trailer with very little strain.

I think you should consider buying a couple large kitchen cutting boards, cut them up, round the corners and counter sink the screw holes, and put them on the bunks.

[Scott Dufour]

Woodcraft has some 1/4" thick pieces about the right width.  Check out http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=897.  I don't recommend the king starboard because it often has anti-slip properties, the opposite of what you're looking for.  The sheets from woodcraft are generic Ultra Hight Molecular Weight (UHMW) plastic, 4 inches wide, 4 feet long, 1/4" thick for $15.  Similar to the cutting-board sheets Gordy mentioned.  Easy to work with, cuts nice, flexes well.

[JeffM]

My trailer came with bunks covered with some sort of plastic.  No complaints.  I wonder, Scott H., about your paint or application.  I put porch & floor oil paint on mine, and it seems to chip off at the least excuse.  My only hypothesis is that I didn't do preparation as well as I should: used 100 grit sandpaper for almost all my sanding, instead of the fine stuff specified.  Has anyone got any ideas?

Scott D, good to hear from you!  Do I understand you have your cs17 in the water?  How about an update?

PS: I didn't even paint my bottom much past the chines, reasoning that epoxy is at least as tough as any paint, and uv light wouldn't have much access down there.

[Scott Dufour]

Hey Jeff,

Nope, Hull #110 isn't in the water yet - I'm finishing painting the deck this weekend and I ordered the sails from Carla a few weeks ago.  I'd like to get her wet before the water freezes this winter.