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Posted

You can just run the jackline straight through two eyelets ( hank in between). That way the hank is in the same alignment as the all the others. After a while the piston part of the hank did cause some wear on my staysail ,so I just changed the jackline hanks to a clip type... 'softer 'edges. :wink:


Posted

My Seaward Fox has a self tacking jib. They set up up by using one line from the cleat on port, up to the eye on the cabin side, up to the pulley on the jib clew and back to the eye on starboard then back to the other cleat on Starboard. The jib did have a batten, but I think it was mostly for maintain shape off wind.

This system worked very well and was cheap.

Fair leads,

Niels

Posted

Niels, the set up on your Seaward Fox sounds similar to my drawing above, but there is a block on the clew of the jib that the line runs through instead of being bent onto the clew. Is that about it? Do you also have a clubfoot on the jib?

Posted

The pulley rides the sheet, so it can automatically tack. Not sure what you mean by club foot? So let me describe it some more. If I remember right the foot of the sail angles up to the clew from the tack.

If I can find a good picture I will post it.

Niels

Posted

P Swan You might want to look at the "Geer Downhaul" system for dousing the jib. Posted one year ago today 5/21/2006. It is simple, easy to install, inexpensive (cheap) and works. Bud.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

When attaching a sheet to a headsail, I don't bother with shackles or other head pounding devices. An anchor bend, Carrick bend, hitched barrel or bow line knot will do, be lighter and save family members hat holders. I have found that both the locked barrel (a barrel knot with a half hitch to finish) and bow line hitches can get shaken sloppy in heavy flogging conditions, but for the average day sailing most do they'll all work, with my preference being the Carrick bend.

A traditional method of making the jib come down and inboard, off the sprit is to rig the tack on a tackle, Slack the tackle, pull the sheet and it comes inboard, no need to man handle it on the sprit. Then ease the halyard from the safely of the foredeck, where you can grab a handful of jib and haul it's stubborn self down, if necessary.

You can cross the jib sheets easily enough, by leading them back to a turning block mounted in a handy location, where it will not foul or chafe anything. The edges of the cabin, coming and side decks all will present opportunities for this turning block. It can then cross the cockpit to a cam cleat.

You could also rig a continuous sheet, which is as it sounds, a loop (big gasket) that runs through a clew mounted sheave, with a blight on each side deck, which runs through turning blocks and cleats. The handy things about this arrangement are the clew can be dragged inboard for better windward work, using the opposite sheet and the jib sheet is fixed, not flopping around the cockpit.

Posted

Thank you PAR.  I've about come to the conclusion that I'm going for the standard jib rig with port & starboard sheets.  If single handed tacking becomes a problem, I can always go back to the clubfoot.  The advise about eliminating the shackle or spring clip is well taken as I've been up there [ulling in the jib and been smacked by the clew clip.  Rope is so much softer...

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