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Bolt through nose


kydocfrog

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This comes at a timely time. One of my next jobs is to install my bow eye. I was going to simply push it through...using both plates and nuts for the backing. I have the holes drilled (oversized and back filled with epoxy). The idea was I could remove it if I wanted to. Maybe I never want to????

Anyway, I was trying to follow Charlies instructions and this is what I came up with. If it's something else...feel free to comment.

If I've got this right, I'd drill some bigger holes from the inside, install the bolt...no plate outside.....tape around the holes so the epoxy drains to the hull line and stops.....slide a nut on...or no nut even......when the epoxy cures....put on the plate and nuts?

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Works for me! You got it. :D Only challenge will be if you want to remove it. It ain't goin' nowhere. :shock: The advantge to a threaded rod is that it can be unscrewed if it was coated with wax, vaseline, etc. The "U" bolts are going to be there until the boat is no longer useable. :lol: This type of installation is stronger than the wood surrounding it.

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This is a very interesting thread. I through bolted the Saralee using 1/2" ready rod, backing washers, jam nuts, and one of those big Galv eyebolts. It has served me well these 6 years; however the rod is badly bent from the trailer winch, the bob stay stresses, or the combination of both. One of this winters mods is to replace the bolt with side straps that will mount the bow eye and the bob stay chain. I am going to a cutter rig with top sail and I doubt the rod will be up to the task. I have not observed any delamination with the hole but it has been recaulked at least every two years. The redrilled epoxy holes for the strapping will preclude the need for this step. I am beginning to see delamination in the stem now due to the number of holes for the sprit and it's extension. I have the new spars but never finished the mounting this season. A little water goes a long way with riff sawn SYP. I suspect from this thread and my own observations that drilling slightly oversize holes and filling the holes around the rod with epoxy is the way to go with any rework at this stage. The drier you can keep the wood the longer it lasts and the less requirement for rework there is. I wish I had used epoxy on the keel. The urea glue is OK but epoxy is fool proof if used correctly! IF wishes were horses.....

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Howard- pretty close, but I didn't through drill. I overbored from the outside, put the nuts on the U-bolt and pushed that in from the outside.

And yes- if you REALLY want it back out you can get it out. Just put a propane torch onto the U-bolt and heat it. The epoxy will soften (it does that at higher temps) and the U-bolt would slide out. Not EASILY, but it WOULD come out.

Lemme tell you a tale about bolts set in epoxy. Back in the late 70's I attended an Experimental Yacht Association meeting along with with Meade Gougeon ( and Jim Brown by the way). They had been building wind generator blades for a NASA project. The ones that had been in use were aluminum and were only holding up for about 3 months. These were 60 foot long blades, set two to a hub, for an over all length of something over 120 feet. The blades that Gougeon built had 10 bolts epoxied into the hub, in a circle. NASA laughed at them when they saw the "glued in bolts"

The Gougeons told them to pull test 'em. NASA did so-- and broke their machine!!!

The wooden blades outlasted the aluminum ones by huge margins by the way. The aluminum couldn't take the flexing, metal fatigued and cracked. Wood has a much better flex factor.

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I love it Charlie! One of my sons worked for NASA. They always go with the most complicated and expensive solution. One of my old professors was a full time EE building exotic weapons fusees for penatrator bombs. He said that what ever you were building to KISS and complicate only as required to make it work. Then quit and leave it alone! Good advise.

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How about this way? My guess is the U bolt you are talking about does not go all the way through. Mine does, and I don't intend to buy another one.

Normally, I like to plug the side I want finished smooth with tape and pour from the other side, as the bubbles float to the top, You get "froth" to deal with...which can be sanded off if left proud, but in this pour...they would accumulate around the bolt edges. You could get it out this way though. The first way I drew it would never come out if you left those nuts on down inside the hole.

I suspect that with three inches of thread and backing plate and nuts, I don't really need the nut inside the hole. It's a dinghy and should never weigh more than a couple hundred pounds, even when loaded. This should hold a thousand or more...blowing the plywood out before the holes give out.

BTW...on my 17 footer, which weighs in around 1,500 pounds, the yard lifted it off the trailer with a sling under the stern and a line tied to the bow eye. It held. They say they can lift some really big boats from just the eye.

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