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Posted

The plans show the peak halyard coming down through a cheek block on the bottom of the mast and than ran to a cleat at the cockpit. This just shows one cheek block. I assum that the peak halyard runs down around the cabin. Would it work better putting another cheek block out away from the cabin and than running back to the cockpit. Using 2 instead of one to re-route the halyard toward the outside of the boat.

Chad


Posted

I screwed an eye bolt into the port side of my mast, about the same height as the cabin roof, and attached a double block to it. Then I attached a second double block to the aft port chainplate. This routes both main halyards back to the cockpit.

I also made sure each halyard ran through the same number of blocks at the top of the mast. I don't recall how many blocks the throat halyard is supposed to use, but I made it match the peak halyard, so that both lines move at the same rate while raising and lowering the sail.

That way I can pull both lines at the same rate until the throat of the gaff is fully raised, cleat that line off and keep pulling the peak hayard until it is where I want it.

Noel.

Posted

Instead of cheek blocks on the mast for the main halyards I have stand up blocks on the front edge of the cabin roof. They are placed so the lines run nicely to fairleads on the cabin roof and back to cam cleats at the aft edge of the roof.

There's not a lot of real estate on the side decks and with the jib sheets and furling line, I decided not to run more lines down there.

Here's a picture showing the main halyards. I'll see if I can find a shot showing the standup turning blocks.

tm16.JPG

Posted

You may find that it is more convenient to run the halyards back along the cabin roof and cleat them off at the bulkhead. Then get a couple of the nice clothespin bags from Wal-Mart and hang them on the bulkhead and keep your lines coiled and stowed out of the way in the bags. (A great idea from Frank.) The bags also make convenient places to put tanning lotion, small gear, etc. Handy but out of the way and not slipping around.

From a line management perspective, you might want to place the peak halyard outboard and the throat halyard inboard adjacent to it. You will be adjusting the peak but not the throat. On the opposite side the jib halyard and if using a clubfoot the jib sheet outboard from that. This way everything is convenient and close at hand. Cleat off the main sail halyard at the mast and stow the extra line between the mast and the cabin front. Out of the way and still easy to get to.

If using seperate jib sheets you might consider running them thru a couple fairleads or bullseyes and along the inner side of the rail and cleating them off next to the cockpit on the side decks. A couple cam cleats cost a bit but make adjustments easy and quick.

Posted

Here's a couple more pictures. Sorry the quality of these is so poor.

roof.jpg

jkfront.jpg

The green line is the jib halyard. It comes down to a standup block on the foredeck just in front of the mast, up to a cheek block on the mast and then back to a cam cleat at the rear of the cabin.

Posted

Thanks. I'll study these photos and your post more this afternoon.

I know I may ask stupid questions, but this really clears up a lot of things for me.

Chad

Posted

Like Dave said, I did mine on the cabin top ... here's a blurry picture:

hal2pit1.jpg

and another showing them running back to the bulkhead:

hal2pit2.jpg

Funny that I chose the starboard side to run mine, and Dave chose the port side ... just preference I guess, but I ended up with the main halyard on my production boat on the starboard side. I wonder if there's a "salty" reason to put it on one side or the other. I can't see how it would matter which way you go with it, but the top of the cabin at the bulkhead is a very convenient place to cleat them off!

Posted

Running them across the cabin top looks interesting. I do wonder though if someone else is in the boat with you and you need to adjust, would they be in the way? I'll keep your ideas in mind as I start to rig, which is still a little way off, but getting closer.

Chad

Posted

Ray, I've wondered whether or not there is some common way to lead halyards. I originally had my peak and throat halyards lead on opposite sides of the companionway hatch because it seemed like a cleaner run from the top of the mast down to the cabin top. It also seemed to make sense to me to split those two halyards but that was prior to sailing the boat and I'd never had experience with a gaff rig before that.

With the original setup of those two halyards, the next line I thought about was the topping lift. I wanted that on the port side because I seem to always board the boat while rigging on that side. that left the starboard side as the location for the jib halyard.

After getting sick up and fed with the split mains'l halyard arrangement, I decided to put them on the same side. Again since I spend most of my setting up time on the port side, it made sense to put them both over there.

Now my jib halyard and topping lift are on the starboard side and it doesn't give me any problems.

Chad, I've never had any problems with gaining access to the halyards on the cabin top even with several others in the cockpit. One thing I have been considering is whether or not I should add some horn cleats especially for the Peak, throat and jib halyards. I'm mostly worried about a certain one year old who likes to pull on strings. :shock:

It has occurred to me several times, especially while thumbing through the Harken catalog that it could be neater to run the halyards through the cabin roof with through deck blocks. You could run the lines through holes in the rafters and aft to the cabin bulkhead. I just haven't figured out what to do after that.

Posted

I have mine coming off the block up on the mast to a block that is shackled to my stbd chainplate then to a cleat near the cockpit on the deck. I've had not problem with it and the line is not in the way because it basically in the same place as the two shrouds. It's easy, it works, and you can hoist it from the mast, because I'm going to be there anyway hoisting the throat.

Posted

Andrew, you could do that and make a sort of rail out it. With my flat cabin front, I have a rafter right there anyway. the curved front cabins might need something, though.

You could also make a rail from hardwood; sort of a pin rail without the pins. Or maybe there's be a pin or two for flag halyards.

Posted

Hey Frank, I was wondering where I was going to put my bell. :? My brother gave me a nice bell and I'm not sure what to do with it. Does the bell rope go all the way back to the cockpit? Very nice.

Posted

Steve, good eye. I hadn't noticed Frank's bell. I've got one of those, too but hadn't figured out where to put it. Now I know. My brother gave me a bronze door sign that says, "HEAD". I haven't figure a location for that one either.

Posted

I picked up one of those bells in Rochester MN when my wife had to go to Mayo. Paid 18 bucks for it. I no longer have to find a place to mount it. Thanks Frank. I plan on a mount or cross piece on the Tabernackle (sp) for the main halyards, then back to the cabin rear edge. The jib halyard will be there also. I made a set of six, three to a side, balaying pins to hang line on while the sails are up. should keep some sort of order.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

To Dave R1;  This is a pretty old topic but I have a question concerning the set up you have pictured for routing the peak and throat halyards via the blocks located on the forward part of the cabin roof.  It looks to me that when going downwind with the mainsail let pretty far out that the boom would be impeded by the halyards.  Is this a problem?

  I appreciate all the help I have received from you and others in building my Weekender as I come close, I think, to the finish line.  Thanks!

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