Oarlocks

[Howard]

Is the position of oar sockets a function of the boat, or person rowing it? As in would you position them differenly for a tall or short rower, or are they given an "average" position that really doesn't fit anyone in partular but everyone in general?

[Charlie Jones]

There is a definite relationship between height of the rower and the position of the rowlocks. There is a formula for figuring it, but durned if I can find it.

[Charlie Jones]

in the Mini I had to install two sets of row locks since with a passenger you have to sit well forward, particularly if that person is large.. The guy in the stern in this pic goes 255

[brian watkins]

Current issue of WoodenBoat has an article about this. Basic guesstimates I've heard if you don't have a preference yet: the oarlocks should be at least 7" above the thwart, and try 12" aft of the after edge of the thwart to start with. There's probably a LOT of other opinions.

[Designer]

The 10" is an average for different size rowers on a Spindrift 10. Without an adjustable arrangement you have to find the best average. In practice it is not that critical especially on an S10 because it has a fairly large footprint on the water as compared to Charlie's Mini which has to be trimmed more carefully. A person with longer arms can sit more forward on the seat and a smaller person vice-versa to be comfortable without upsetting the fore and aft trim.

As an example - my own working Catspaw: Carla and I are very different heights, leg length and arm length. I sat about amid-seat solo, and Carla sat well aft, but both using the same position oarlock position.

[capt jake]

Hey, while we are talking oarlocks; Charlie, it appears as though your placement of the locks are different than the plans. Since I am at that 'point' of construction, well it's time for me to place them 'rights'! ;)

I have a lot of rounding/fairing of the gunwales but need to left a flat for the locks.

Thanks,

Jake

[Charlie Jones]

Jake- we launched the boat, put some wooden screw clamps on the gunwale to hold the locks in place and both of us got into the boat. I adjusted the forward rowlocks to were I was most comfortable rowing from the forward postiion, with Laura in the boat.

Then she got out and I set the after ones up for me rowing by myself.

We set them up for me because Laura doesn't REALLY like to row, although she can do so. Of course we DID adjust them a mite so she COULD use them.

[Howard]

Moving forward and aft on the seat does sound like an easy way to make adjustments for height.

I tried rowing a 6'9" pram last fall, and couldn't do it. There was not enough leg room for me to stretch out, so I was forced to sit cross legged and take little strokes, while the oars knocked me in the knees. At 6', it's a concern I would also have with the Mini, but with the Spindrift, that should not be a problem.

[Guest]

Any of you guys remember the small boston whaler launches? The seats used a strip of mahogany along the sides with notches in them. Why don't you use this principle to place a seat thwart in the middle, when needed, if you are single handed?

[capt jake]

Charlie, you appear to be about 6', as am I. I may have to take it out and do as you said, though I would line to have most of the Fairing done prior to getting it wet. It is surprising the visual difference between your placement and the plans (not that this is a bad thing).

Mike, the seats in the Mini (at least) are a fixed commodity.

[Charlie Jones]

I'm 5'8" and the boat was all done except for painting- and rowlocks of course.

Laura is 5'2" by the way

[Guest]

You can't add a continuous seat batten for and aft, even though you seats are built in the corner, and use an insert seat when leaving the dock? OH thats right, you are building from plans.

[Howard]

Interesting that you folks are looking at this from a standpoint of boat trim. I thought it was a function of how long your arms are and where to position them to give you the most comfortable and powerful stroke. Not unlike the position of a bicycle seat to give you a full stroke. But now that I think about it, that does clearly come second to having the boat trimmed right before you start.

How big should the pads be? 3" x 5" about right?

[capt jake]

While we are at it; are there any plans out there to make your own oars? Namely the shape and size of the paddle portion. Or am I better off buying andf or going and tracing the shape from a retailer?

[Charlie Jones]

here's a couple of links to oar making-

http://www.bateau.com/free/simple_oars.html

http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/2001/0215/index.htm#ROWING%202001B

http://www.instantboats.com/oarmaking.htm

[capt jake]

Thanks Charlie! Now I have another question; the size of the shaft (at the oralock) seems to vary from one mfg to another. Most of the plans call for 1 1/2" while some of the comercials are 1 3/4" Now I also assume that you have to get the correct size oarlock to match.

Now here is the main question; if you get #0 locks, which are 2" ID, do you get an oar that is 1 3/4"?? Will teh addition of the leathera also affect this decision?

I am down to the dreaded sanding of the Mini. Both transoms turned out fine, they will be bright. Not bad for starting at 0530. :shock:

[Stump]

heres another link from Bob.

http://byyb.org/gaffrig/jas05/table%20of%20contents.htm