JeffM Posted August 21, 2004 Posted August 21, 2004 I'm trying to think my way through my options for accessing storage in my future CS20. On the one hand, I'm a lazy non-woodworker and want to keep things simple. I was thinking of a 13" by 24" opening in the rear bulkhead (big enough to put tents, portable stove, etc, through, and also a good opening for inspection/repair), maybe small openings in the side tanks, all with flap coverings if needed to keep out spray. Graham points out that water will get in, neccesitating limbers holes, and that bilge water will slosh INTO open tanks due to heeling. I'd figured that drainage would be important anyway, as I am worried about dampness in a wooden boat. On the other hand, I'm reading more posts from people who let the storage spaces double as floatation chambers. Does that mean the hatches are tight must be pretty tight and there's no drainage? I like the double-duty idea (I'f figured to install a little foam), but does that mean my worries about dampness are exagerated? What options did you all choose, and how are they working out? Quote
mustangermatt Posted August 22, 2004 Posted August 22, 2004 Since all the wood in a coresound is sealed with epoxy, yes your worries about dampness are unfounded (mostly). If you don't want to do wood work then you could buy the manufactured hatches from a marine supplier. Quote
Scott Dunsworth Posted August 22, 2004 Posted August 22, 2004 You can buy new hatchs for about 1/2 price of marine catalogs price on ebay. I just bought a bomar cabin hatch with tinted lens and screen for $122. Also $120 worth of bomar hatchs for $70. I bought a new fulton motor mount that sells for $139-159 for $52. So if you want to save some cash Do a search for hatch on ebay. Scott Quote
Designer Posted August 23, 2004 Posted August 23, 2004 These are the best hatches that I can find for small boats. They are absolutely watertight and installation consists of cutting a hole in your boat. The only extra work required is if the ply is not stiff enough and can distort. This is usual in 1/4" ply so I add a 1/4" doubler and it is done. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote
JeffM Posted August 23, 2004 Author Posted August 23, 2004 Thanks, all! I am going to check out Graham's Armstrong deckplates first. If too pricey, I'll look into Scott's suggestion. Jeff Quote
Garry Posted August 23, 2004 Posted August 23, 2004 Check out these hatches from So-Pac. They are sturdy and seal with an O-ring. They should be at least fairly watertight. I have four medium size rectangular ones (see second link) that I will be using on my Spindrift. They are not cheap but sometimes you can catch a sale from Imtra (the importer). http://www.imtra.com/index.cfm?fa=brand&categoryId=6&brandId=22 http://www.imtra.com/index.cfm?fa=product&categoryId=6&brandId=22&subcategoryId=105&modelId=352&productId=1869 Quote
JeffM Posted August 24, 2004 Author Posted August 24, 2004 Thanks, Garry! Can you tell me what the installation's like? Jeff Quote
Garry Posted August 24, 2004 Posted August 24, 2004 Installation is very simple. They provide a template for the frame to layout the position and cut out the opening. The frame has a number of chamfered screw holes (10 or 12?) for screws or bolts. The frame should be sealed with the appropriate sealant. They even provide a set of plastic plugs to cover the screw heads if you want a very clean appearance. I'm not sure I would recommend using the plugs since they would trap moisture against the SS screws which I think should be left exposed. The quarter-turn latch is a fairly heavy plastic construction. The latch turn ring snaps into a recess for a flush surface. You lift it up and then turn it to open. The hatch itself is reinforced and heavy enough to sit or stand on. I'm not sure I would rely on the hatch O-ring to be waterproof but it would definitely be water resistant. I'm sure it would keep water out long enough to act as a flotation chamber while you bail out a swamped boat. I hope to give the boat a swamp test in the next week or two and I will post something here about it. Quote
JeffM Posted August 25, 2004 Author Posted August 25, 2004 Thanks for all the details, Garry! The only thing you didn't give me was test results -- and it sounds like you might post those too! I emailed Armstrong about there deck plates but haven't heard back (don't know what they cost or where to get them). The So-Pac hatches come in very useful sizes. If they're reasonably water-tight, I'll likely go with them. I wonder how they'd work on the cambered foredeck? Quote
bd5194 Posted August 29, 2004 Posted August 29, 2004 This is for Graham I guess since he recommended them, those Armstrong deckplates look real nice, I plan on building without the aft deck so I like the fact that there completely watertight, want all the bouyancy you can get right, can you give me an idea of price? been in touch with them with no response. Thanks, Brad Quote
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