I'm going to do it!--a Weekender: Your advice is invited.

[RussMartin]

I'm a 54-year-old (next Monday) electronics engineer in Omaha, Nebraska, twice-divorced and a grandfather last year. Hobbies include amateur radio (licensed since 1965) and genealogy.

I learned to sail as a kid in California--12 years old, on Bowman Lake near Emigrant Gap--and have been back to it several times for a few years each. The largest craft I've owned was a Capri 16; the largest ever handled (not alone) was a 42-footer on Canyon Lake near San Antonio.

Anyway, the build-it bug bit--hard--when I met a fellow at Lake Cunningham (the marina and ramp are about four minutes from my new house) who's built several, most recently a Meadowbird. He suggested the Weekender as a first project, and I'm not unhandy (my Indian name is Dances With Power Tools).

I've browsed here, and at BYYB, at a few individuals' websites, and at the old MSN forum, but I'd like to solicit any opinions from those of you who have done this. If you care to share your thoughts, I'd like to know:

1. If you did it again, what, if anything, would you do differently?

2. What modifications, if any, did you make, either during construction or after shakedown?

3. If it's not too personal, about how much did the entire project cost?

If there are other tips you'd like to pass along, or prior discussions you'd like me to look at, I will be sincerely grateful.

Russ

[Frank Hagan]

What would I do differently? I wouldn't be as worried about getting the hull very, very smooth, and then put the glass on it ... which is when I hurried way too much, and have the "character" in the finish to show for it. I would not have spent so much time on the companionway hatch re-design. And I would have used an oil based paint instead of latex.

But those are minor quibbles ... if i could only do it that way again, I would jump at the chance. There are few things I've done in life that are as rewarding as building my boat. My wife, my kids, some other things I won't mention, and then building the boat. Its about 5th on the list.

Using construction grade materials, but buying sails ($500), my total cost was just under $2500.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Welcome Russ,

1. If you did it again, what, if anything, would you do differently?

I wouldn't have waited until I was divorced twice and semi-retired. I also would have done it when I was about 54 instead of 60 something. :roll:

I would have stayed with the choice of Marine Plywood, but gone to Okoume instead of Douglas Fir Marine. It was about $150 more for the Okoume than the Doug Fir Marine. I'm not so sure that there is that much difference in price now. I was undecided on material for the keel and chose clear Hemlock rather than a softer wood. I would do that again even though the material is not 3/4", it is 11/16" dressed. I used Urea resin glue and would do it again with Stainless steel screws and hardware thru out. I have a problem with epoxy and my Dr. suggests that I not get anymore exposure than necessary to it. I've built a number of small boats with Dap/Weldwood Urea Resin glue and never had a failure of a glue joint in nearly 40 years of using the product. Wish I could say the same for the epoxy joints I've repaired and redone after they failed.

2. What modifications, if any, did you make, either during construction or after shakedown?

I raised the cabin roof 3" because both my son and myself are over 6'1" and head room is on the extremely tight side. I would raise it 4" if I were to do it over. I would also widen the transom about 9-12" and re-loft the entire rear of the boat to reflect the change. The cockpit is quite narrow for long legs and camping out is going to be a challenge. I'd like to be able to put the port-a-potty in the cockpit as far back as possible when camping out. And that should also have some benefits as far as stability and handling goes. As laid out, it is too narrow to do that. I modified the stem inside the forepeak so that I could install a battery shelf and have a sturdier mount for the bits to hold the bowsprit.

I am installing a longer bowsprit so I can use a large headsail on a roller furling system as well as a jib on a clubfoot. To enable me to get forward, I'm installing two bow grates as a "pulpit" on ether side of the bow sprit to allow me to have somewhere to kneel or stand when I go forward.

I will place two marine batteries in the forepeak to keep the bow down and allow the keel/chines to work as designed and be more efficient. It also keeps the bottom from pounding. The standard jib will be used along with a somewhat larger "lapper" on the furling system. The jib and main have two sets of reef points. This gives me some versatility and options for varying wind conditions.

I'm varying from the design a little in that I'm putting the clubfoot on a traveler as well as the main. The traveler on the clubfoot allows it to be completely self-tending with easier control and sail shaping. The main boom on a traveler is to help control the boom and help keep the boom down instead of a boom vang. I'm also putting the gooseneck on a track that will allow me to raise it or lower it about 6-9", primarily for camping and getting the boom raised for a boom tent.

I installed a built-in foam insulated cooler in one seat with a lift lid and a large open storage compartment under the other. I've installed foam behind the seat backs and in the lazarette for positive flotation and will place some in the forepeak underside of the deck and against the forward side of the bulkhead.

My mast base has been lengthened by 4" and my mast by 6". The boom is fabricated from a 2X3 length of vertical grain Doug Fir for weight as well as keeping it from either twisting or bending over time. I used

vertical grain Doug fir for my mast as well as my rails. I could have just ripped out some 1X2 from 2X4 stock but I wanted them to be finished brite and they're part of the package.

I selected clear/straight grain, quarter sawn Hemlock for my stringer stock as well as keel material rather than plain or riff sawn lumber.

I'm glassing with vinylester, I'm familiar with it, have used it before and don't have the epoxy to deal with. So I will fill with Bondo equivalent and then prime with a high build alkyd primer. Then paint the hull with System Three LPU polyurethane. Two coats and then a clear coat for additional UV protection and durability. The topsides will have a Spantex self vulcanizing membrane for deck and non-skid. The rest of the topsides are painted with Exterior Gloss Latex Porch and Deck Enamel. Bright work is varnished with Varathane Classic oil based urethane. High UV protection and long lasting.

I'm deviating in that I'm also making rope stropped blocks for the Weekender and using a very traditional looking polyester low stretch and soft touch lines for the rigging.

I'm not going with dead eyes, but using the turnbuckles for positive adjustments and ease of use.

I've used a lot of "found wood", recycled old growth Doug Fir and Western Red Cedar for trim pieces that will be non-structural and bright finished. I would do more of that if I were doing it over again.

I deviated from the plans and fabricated a thicker "airfoil" cross section High aspect rudder. Same dimensions and shape except for thickness. I am comparing the stock design with this to see if it improves performance and handling. I'll give them both an extensive workout in various conditions and take a lot of notes.

The roller furling system is a home design. A spool the line and the luff wire sewn into the luff of the lapper. A swivel on top and on the bottom and tension via the halyard to raise and lower it. A separate forestay just forward of the furling system and provisions for a second halyard with forestay for the jib.

3. If it's not too personal, about how much did the entire project cost?

I have $1876 in materials at this point. I'm ready for glass and finishing. Glass and finishing materials for hull and deck/cockpit will add approx. $450 more. The marine batteries are gel types and fairly expensive ($325). The electric trolling motor is a 55# thrust @ $220 and I also have a 3 hp gas outboard. Add approx. $900 more for trailer, Approx. $250 in poly sail materials and $450 for standing/running rigging and I'll come in just about $4,000 ready to go. I already have the outboard from a few boats back. I could have done it for about $600 less by cutting back on the materials to lower grades and it would still look and handle the same. But I'm building this to last a good number of years and to be used in Salt water as well as fresh. So I didn't cut corners with materials to any extent. I did haunt the wood recycling dealers as well as shopping the sales and comparing prices a lot. For instance, I purchase all the stainless steel fittings etc from ACE Hardware, they gave me a nice discount and I saved shipping and handling. They also had no questions on exchanges or returns. Good people, I just got them involved in the project.

I didn't need to add any tools to my shop to do this. I have a table saw, band saw, planer, several routers, drill press, precision sanding equipment, several hand held sanders and biscuit joiner, Circular saws, large dual stage compressor and air tools and a full complement of wood and metal working tools including lathes. So other than a couple new thin kerf saw blades, sandpaper and some odds and ends, I was ready to build. I also had much of the finishing materials that I would need prior to beginning. Otherwise I probably would have added a bunch more.

I built the Weekender in my boat shed, a double garage to the finishing point in about 6 months by myself for the most part. Then it went into storage for nearly two years. Now I'm in a large well lit, spacious shop for finishing it.

A number of the decisions on my Weekender were made with a couple things in mind. I would be using it in both salt and fresh water. I wanted a boat that I could single hand and that my grown kids might use and enjoy as well. If so, then we will probably build a Vacationer as well for camping and sailing with the Weekender if we want to go together.

If there are other tips you'd like to pass along, or prior discussions you'd like me to look at, I will be sincerely grateful.

Yes, read all the FAQ's in the various websites for good solid factual information on material selection and plan clarification. If you have questions about wood selection, go to Glen-l.com and read the entire section on wood selection and appropriate woods for boat building. Also plywood choices and differences. Consider one main thing with Marine plywood, edge glued veneers and no voids. Also 3/8" has 5 veneers rather than 3. Much better product.

Read back on this forum thru a number of posts over the last couple years about the construction techniques, materials, issues with adhesives and working with epoxy or urea-resin glues. Both will do the job. Both will last longer than you will probably have the boat. But application of either is a world apart in how you build. Same with finishing. Lots of differing opinions, most valid. But consider maintenance and repairs as a part of ownership. Read up on the issues and maintenance problems that builders have talked about before you purchase the wood and begin. You'll probably have a different spin on things.

You can build it on the cheep and it will float and work. You can spend a small fortune and finish it to the highest levels and it will float and work. I'm into just a little bit better finish work than the Stevenson's do in their video and plan on it lasting a long time. But I also know it will take upkeep to make it last. I've been there, done that and understand the challenges in keeping a wooden boat.

So...consider that most all the builders are first time builders and for many this would be their first boat and sail boat as well. So they not only are learning how to build, how to sail and how to enjoy it. Lots of ideas and opinions out there, some good, some not so good, most will work, some better than others. Your choice always, and don't be afraid to ask questions. Lots of good information contained here and a willingness to share it with others.

Pull up the Moaning Chair and have at it.

[Craig]

Russ, consider building the boat without the seat compartments. I find on my Vac that they are a waste of space and always seem to get a bit of water in them. There are many photos on the web to consider. Mast caps at the deck are problematic. I finally gave up and went with mast partners and 4200 as a cover seal. These boats have no cockpit drains. Provide for that as you consider mods. The only scuppers are not at the widest point on the hull. Make your modification decisions before you start to build. Every mod effects 10 other things down the line. I retrospect I would shorten the cabin for more cockpit. I day sail only and didn't build in the cabin facilities. The porti pottie was a waste of space for me. Do not use any Southern Yellow Pine less than 2" thick. Use the best keel wood you can afford (you can't afford cheep materials here) and assemble with thickened epoxy and SS screws. Get this part right the first time. DO NOT USE fiberglass matt with epoxy, they are not compatable. Mast tabernacles are another major decision. Check around to the various web sites of the folks on the board for ideas. We put a lot of effort into this issue. See Phil Gowens site for many great ideas. Don't miss the exerpts from the Gaff Rig books so kindly provided on this site by Frank Hagan. This board can also lead you to my site for some photos of the building of the Saralee. Welcome to the maddness. Beware, this is addicting. Happy building.

[Dave R1]

Russ, here are a few things I did that were different than the plans.

1. I left the center layer of the stem toward the back and added some pieces to it to make it the full thickness. (I'll try to find pictures) I did this to give me a better mounting point for the bitts. I'll also see if I can come up with a picture or drawing of that business, too. It's better to do that stuff before you put the sides on.

2. Seats. I went with slatted seats rather than the plywood boxes. They allow me to strecth my long legs out. I did not cut the lower corners out of the cabin bulkhead. The seats are removable although there's not much need to take them out.

3. Cabin. I squared off the front to make it easier to build and for slightly more room in the cabin.

4. Cabin roof. I made the roof from two pieces of plywood rather than three. There is a seam down the middle and no scabbed in pieces at the aft corners. I ran a "ridge beam" down the center of the cabin at the apex of the arches. I used 3/8" luaun ply because I had it. I think if I was going to do it over, I'd go with 1/4" luaun. It would be stiff enough after being glued and screwed to the rafters.

5. Cabin roof, deck and hatch covers are all luaun. It won't check with exposure to UV like fir does. If you sand it a bit and epoxy it or at least varnish it, it looks like mahogany.

6. Increased mast height by 3'. This allowed me to spread out the rigging aloft. It also allowed me to raise the boom a bit so it doesn't smack me in the melon as it goes by. I've already forgotten how high the boom is but I sent Adla the dimensions and maybe she'll chime in. Or I can go out and measure it again.

7. Steering. I used Harken blocks after I had a hardware store pulley fail on launch day. I also used a metal shaft and bronze pillow block bushing for the steering shaft. There's a sprocket on the shaft and an idler on either side. A short piece of No. 60 roller chain goes over these sprockets and connects to the steering cable.

8. To provide access to the steering assembly, I cut an opeing in the stern deck. The hatch is simply a piece of luaun ply with the back veneer planed off. After planing, it naturally took on the curve of the deck. (Amazing how a face veneer can strengthen a piece of plywood.) To the underside of the hatch piece I glued a couple of pieces of 1x1 stock. These pieces fit inside the hatch opening and allow screw eyes to be attached to the hatch. There are a couple of screw eyes down in the bottom of the laz to which bungee cords are hooked. They are pulled up and hooked to the hatch cover screw eyes. This holds the cover down with no exposed hardware.

9. Forehatch. I used one of those magnetic child proofing latches to latch the forehatch closed. There's a magnetic key used to unlock it. This was done so there's no exposed hardware for a jib sheet to catch on.

10. Rudder. I routed a recess on both sides near the bottom. The recesses were about 1/3 of the rudder thickness and the edges were finished with a dovetail bit. I laid strips of lead sold as decoy weights into the recesses and filled the space with epoxy. The rudder stays down on its own but will pop up when I hit something or drag the rudder.

There are some pictures of construction here:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4292389401

I'll find the pictures of the stem and post them.

Dave

[Dave R1]

Pictures

Stem top after the recess was cut for the deck.

I attached some 2x2 oak blocks to the stem near the back. These have holes bored for 1/4" bolts. the bitts install just in front of these blocks and there are tee nuts in their forward faces. This allowed me to install the bitts without getting stuck head first in the forepeak and then dropping my cell phone on my head while trying to call for help.*

I drove the bolts in with my cordless drill. This made fitting them with the sides off very easy and then they could be removed for painting the deck.

Cabin rafters.

Again, I think with all that structure and the curvature of the plywood, 1/4" ply would be just fine here.

[tomstock]

I've been working on my weekender for almost a year now. I just started glassing the hull today. I only work on my boat one day a week if I'm lucky enough to find time. So far the project has cost me about $1000 (slightly more or less). This is my first boat, but I took sailing lessons 3 years ago so I know the basics of sailing and know what I want from the boat.

Modifications: Tiller (dont care for the wheel), and square cabin front (so I could use my scraps instead of buying more wood on that particular day). There are at least a dozen other minor modifications which are unavoidable when you are building a boat... mostl to solve other problems you encountered along the way. Each day you build it gets easier and harder at the same time.

I built mine with Kimberly pine and douglas fir ACX plywood.

If I could do something differently, I would spend a little more time on the details (if I could, but I cant) and use some nicer wood so I could have more brightwork. Unfortunately, that wasn't an option since I was on a budget when I started the boat. Some minor flaws with the ACX have made an appearance, but otherwise the boat is turning out just fine. Luaun sounds like a nice alternative to plywood.

Overall it's been a vary pleasurable experience and I will probably do it again. I still haven't sailed the boat and I'm already happy with it.

Dont forget to budget in tools... So far I've needed two skillsaws (killed one), two jigsaws (killed one), one 5" orbital sander, one router (not needed but nice for the keel rounding), a surform (used 4 blades), and two electric drills (one for holes and one for screws used together to be quick). That's it!

http://www.flopped.org/~mykrowyre/weekender

Tom

[Dave R1]

I did a quick drawing of the way I did the stem and bitts. I didn't put in the cross bar on the bitts but that's the way they are in the plans.

The bitts bolt in with two bolts in each upright. The bolts come in through the rear face and are anchored in tee nuts on the front face.

[tomstock]

Also forgot to mention, I highly recommend using epoxy for construction instead of the resin glue. The recommended weldwood works ok and is cheap, but won't fill gaps like epoxy because it shrinks as it cures. If I had used epoxy it would have solved a lot of headaches, such as gaps between the planks in my keel.

To avoid the keel gaps, use nails to assemble the keel, not screws.

The gaps were my fault, but if I had used the thickened epoxy to glue it up, the gaps wouldn't have been an issue because the epoxy would have filled them when I assembled the keel. Instead, the weldwood dried up and shrunk.

Also epoxy will give you more time to work, or less depending on how you mix it.

Tom

[Dave R1]

Tom has a good point if you use bronze hold fast nails. Screws work fine if you drill a proper shank hole so the top part isn't jacked away from the lower one. You probably know that already, though.

[tdrown]

I would have gone with higher grade woods in some cases and I would have spent less in other areas (ie, buying screws in bulk would have saved me A LOT).

I would have strengthened the bowspirit bits as show.

I would have used epoxy

I would have had more questions on this forum (I would have had problems solved quicker)

I woulld have modified the cabin maybe 2" higher and perhaps with a squared front and different bulkhead (although changing the cabin does drastically change the looks of the boat).

I would have set up steering much earlier and have easy access to it (and not wait until launch day)

I would run the sheets in the cockpit and have easy to operate cleats for them

Here's what I did do differently:

I made the mast higher, and the mast tabernackle higher

I made my bowspirit longer (which has allowed me to add a headsail)

I used the wheel steering (I like it better in terms of looks, but am still having troubles getting it tight)

I added an electrical system

I added a headsail

I have a hatch to a locker on the top of the starboard bench (shown here http://tyler.drown.org/97seat9.jpg, it leaks like a sive and mold grows. It used to leak into the cabin until I pour epoxy into the locker to prevent it . I will eventually convert it to something similar to what Phil Gowans did to his http://www.pragdata.com/philboat/PlanSeat.html

I added a beefier toe rail

I too also would have liked to build younger but the idea never struck me until last year

happy building!

[tomstock]

Tom has a good point if you use bronze hold fast nails. Screws work fine if you drill a proper shank hole so the top part isn't jacked away from the lower one. You probably know that already' date=' though.[/quote']

BTW: I did drill shank holes. The problem was that I used 1.5" screws which went through the 1st and 2nd plank into the 3rd one. The 1st was tight, but it pushed the 2nd one out from the 3rd one. Didn't notice until after the glue set. (Profanity removed).

Tom

[Craig]

I had the same problem with boat nails, and the Weldwood glue. I suspect the trick is to do two laminations and follow the next day with the third. That way any abnormalities can be dealt with before the epoxy sets. I do remember that the keel building day was a very long one.and my helper kept whining about when we were going to be done.

[Tim Diebert]

My chosen mods are here:

http://www.timtone.com/tt/ttphotos/PhotosSailing2.htm

[RussMartin]

The number and quality of responses is wonderful! Thanks for taking the time.

I'm going to have to work with all of the information you folks have offered off-line for a few days, sort it into workable groups, then get back here with specific questions either in the forum or by private message.

I suppose I'm going to need to settle the plywood issue first. Given: (A) It's my first attempt, ( it's a dunker, and © during the really bad-weather part of the year, it will be garaged (I have a 20x20 storage unit, only 10x20 filled since I finished moving). And I probably will have to factor in genealogy: I'm predominantly Scots as well as Jewish. (Don't ask how that happened . . . )

ACX: I've looked at three local sources and was surprised at the range of quality (based on appearance) within the grade. The best-looking was also the most reasonably priced, at Menard's. I haven't found a local source for the others.

If I can save enough to justify a trip with my pickup, I'm an easy 7-hour drive from the Twin Cities in Minnesota. Duluth isn't out of the question.

Here's what I have for numbers, assuming all 11 sheets are from the same grade and type of lumber. (Would mix-and-match be worth trying? If so, where would I put the "best" wood?)

ACX: $299

Meranti BS6566: $355

Marine Fir: $497

Meranti BS1088: $682

Okume BS1088: $861

On anything except the ACX, I'll probably have to pay freight.

[Fintan Murphy]

Russ,

you've had some great replies from the knowledgeable members of the board.

One further point, don't get caught up in the idea of modifications as that can be the road to ruin.

I spent a lot of time thinking about various mods, some I did and some I didn't, but in each case you could lose a weeks building time by mulling it over and trying various angles, before falling back on the plans.

Depending on your budget, in both time and materials, it may be better at times to go with the standard. After all, as the Stephensons say, it works.

We all have the itch to modify as we're building, sometimes this has to be tempered with the fact that the boat has to be built and put in the water.

To paraphrase an old saying "Boats are safe in the building shed, or on the dolly, but that's not what boats are for".

On saying that, the list of mods I did are

1. Didn't cut out the holes in the bulkhead between the cabin and forward hold. As has been said above, I thought of the forward locker as extra boyancy.

2. Made her into a cutter rig, with furled headsail. Moved the forestay to the clubfoot eye, and hanked on the staysail. Both sails are controlled by sheets lead back to cleats just in front of the splashcombings.

3. Rigged a lazyjack system that leads from the top of the mast, under the boom, up to a cheekblock on the other side of the top of the mast, down to a cheekblock and to a jamcleat on the cabin top. This also holds up the boom when the sail is down. Remember to position the boom fairlead forwards enough along the boom so that the end of the gaff is behind the two lazyjack lines leading to the top of the mast.

4. Do not cut a hole for the trailer in the stem untill you have loaded the boat on the trailer. People have found that the hole per the plans is normally too high.

5. I rigged a single purchase on the mainsheet. This goes from an eye on the lazerette deck, to a block on the boom, forward to a rachet block as per plans. I did this because a. there is less mainsheet around your feet to foul up, and b. the main will run out faster if you have to dump wind as there is less main to play out. I don't find the pull on the mainsheet too much, with the rachet engaged on the block.

By the way, most of these mods were obtained from the forum, so if in doubt, as questions here.

[tomstock]

ACX: $299

Meranti BS6566: $355

Marine Fir: $497

Meranti BS1088: $682

Okume BS1088: $861

On anything except the ACX' date=' I'll probably have to pay freight.[/quote']

If the Marine Fir really IS marine ply (more layers and better glue) then I'd go for that unless the shipping gets too expensive. I'd just have LOVED to use Okume, but I couldnt afford that... it sure looks great. If you mix and match: If you want brightwork, use good wood on the cabin roof, hatches, and maybe seats, and maybe the deck and cabin sides. You'll be fiberglassing the hull anyway, so better wood there would be a little stronger but not much more to look at (except on the inside of the boat... you could leave it bright if you wanted I guess).

If you're building outside you may want to order the wood a little at a time to keep it from sitting around and possibly getting wet. I worked on my boat outside, and if I had ordered it all at once, I'd have had it sitting outside for almost a year. Granted, I couldnt afford to order it all at once anyway... which was probably a good thing.

-tom

[Frank Hagan]

ACX: $299

Meranti BS6566: $355

Marine Fir: $497

Meranti BS1088: $682

Okume BS1088: $861

On anything except the ACX' date=' I'll probably have to pay freight.[/quote']

Find out what the freight is on the Meranti. There's another option for someone who is Scotts-Jewish ... not glassing the hull. You'll save $300 - $500 or more by not fiberglassing the hull. If you use fir ACX, you have to glass because the plywood will "check" (crack") as the darker wood moves at a different rate from the lighter wood. The meranti will be plain sawn veneers, and won't check.

You will probably want to use fiberglass tape along the chines (where the sides meet the bottom), but nowhere else. Those are the only areas where you really need to seal it up and provide some abrasion resistance, unless you plan to beach her often. A good coat of exterior latex house paint that you touch up periodically will work to seal the other areas.

For all the 1/2" pieces, particularly the bottom, see if Menard's, Lowes or Home Depot in your area has 1/4" Luan underlayment. Its a waterproof-glue luan faced plywood intended to be used under flooring. You can laminate it to make the 1/2" sheets, and use it for the 1/4" ply. It is an inexpensive option ($10 to $15 a sheet), but doesn't bend quite as well as the marine grade ply ... its only 3 plies with a thicker center ply as opposed to 5 equal plies in the marine variety. Still, given your budget, it is a good alternative.

Using the best materials is never a bad thing, but if you enjoy of the challenge of doing things inexpensively like I do (some Scots blood in me!), then the cheaper alternatives will be attractive.

[RussMartin]

Thanks, Frank.

Yep, I'm one of those people who agonize over the balance between cost and quality. The place I rarely compromise is on good tools.

I did notice the luaun at Mendard's. 1/4" was $9.89 per 4x8 panel. The tag also said something about either the inner ply or veneers (I forget which) on some panels may be Meranti "or similar species". It had not occurred to me to try laminating it. It did occur to me to ask here if it could be substituted for any parts of the 1/4 ply called for in the plans. (I also noticed they had 3/4" luaun for underlayment.) What struck me most of all is how nicely smooth both sides of the panels were, right off the shelf. Any thoughts?

[Frank Hagan]

Several builders have used the 1/4" luan and laminated it ... I think Terry Crisp did on his Weekender. Someone will have to chime in with his website; I think it is http://groups.msn.com/Sandbarsanddriftwood

He used epoxy to do the laminations, but you could also use the less expensive Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue by DAP. You would have to mix up enough to coat the surface and then weight the laminations down with sand bags, concrete blocks, or water softener salt bags (my favorite weight since I utilize it rather than buy it and have to store it!) The other advantage of laminating the bottom is that you can avoid the "panel joiner" by staggering the lamination joints. Put plastic down on the floor first, unless you want a luan laminated garage floor.

Luan is pretty wood, but left exposed to UV, it turns pinkish-brown (even under epoxy or varnish). So its not good for brightwork except in the cabin.