Stump Posted July 15, 2004 Report Share Posted July 15, 2004 Ok, no one has written over here for a while so I will. As I mentioned on the main form I came into a whole bunch of old lumber and after unloading it I wanted to build something with it. I thought, how about another boat, a flat bottomed skiff shouldn't be too hard. Looked through the plans I've downloaded from the web and decided to follow the general idea of the DH boat. http://www.mcallen.lib.tx.us/staff/gm/dhboat1.htm Plywood with a single center frame. Option of either and internal or an external chine. I'm leaning towards the internal and I'm not sure why. Maybe because that is the way I did it on the Weekender. So, Cut out the sides and butt jointed them together. Used 1 by 6 pieces instead of plywood. found my first mistake, butt jointed them the same so, I just recut the bow and stern pieces and the boat is a little shorter by about 10 inches now. Got the sides put together and will do the bottom tomorrow. Still not sure about the chines. I'm planing on making a dagger board instead of the leeboards on the plans, I have a 3' x 18" piece of sign metal that I don't think will flex too much for the dagger, not sure how it will work though. I did widen the transom 5" at the bottom and 10" at the top. I am also going to deck the front to just behond the mast partner and the back 12" or so at the transom, packing that area with floation material. Ideas? :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 15, 2004 Report Share Posted July 15, 2004 First off, the shot of the example with many of your modifications, is still a narrow boat. One must take this into consideration with lumber of any real thickness. You also state you want to cut off 10 inches. Hum??? Suggestion, for you, start out with a simple sheet plywood skiff, with even 1/4 inch luan, rib frames and fitting them, and sawn 1x2 battens on two or three jigs, and screw it all together, and paint it. This will give you some knowledge of weights, as it plays out to performance, handling in the water, and construction methods. You are describing a completely different animal then what you maybe wanting ot end up with, as far as a tender to your sail boat, or anothe useable boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stump Posted July 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2004 I know, this is NOT going to be the boat I finish with, it is only to get started. I just had to use some of that wood...it was killing me! Went with the outside chine, that worked well, problems with the stem, never did get it really straight, I can't tell if it is the 1/4 ply or my workmanship, I'm leaning towards workmenship. I tend to get on a roll and proceed at a faster pace than I should. Mounted a 2x2 for the keel and also have 2 skegs(?) on either side. The boat has a nice rocker and seems to be level side to side. Oyster, I think some of the problem I had at the bow was lack of frames, when I actually make a better boat I'll definitely use more of a frame work to keep everything true, it was interesting to see the different stresses put on various parts and different times of the building. I really think that the stem needs to be solidly attached to keep the bow true, not cut in place like I did. OK, so, I've just flipped the boat right side up to finish attaching the keel and skegs, and I'll deck it and get the mast partner in this afternoon. I'll paint this evening and if it dries overnight throw it into the water tomorrow. Wow, talk about slamming together a boat. btw, couldn't find the sign piece so I guess I'll go with leeboards. I need a pair right? This little skiff should be fine throwing into the back of my truck and taking down to the local lakes to play with. I'm thinking of using a lug rig with this boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 16, 2004 Report Share Posted July 16, 2004 Waiting patiently for pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stump Posted July 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2004 yea, ummm, I'm going to have to borrow a camera. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stump Posted July 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2004 Still trying to get my hands on a camera... anyway, got mast partner and front deck framing put together, along with rear seat. still have to get the middle seat in. Took longer to paint than I thought, I had to let the 5200 skim over :roll: got one coat of paint on inside and out, looks like I'm going to need a couple more. Trying to get all exterior parts with at least one coat today, (still have rub rails, chines, and stem to paint,) due to threat of rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Hagan Posted July 18, 2004 Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 I think you will need two lee boards ... and a way to pull one up on the windward side when you tack (I think that's the way they work). You do see offset centerboards on boats ... I wonder how far offset you can go before you start sailing in circles? :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stump Posted July 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 Looking at the slight curve of my keel (I swear, looking at it from above it's straight. It's only when you get down and kind of look along it that it appears to have a slight "v" shape :oops: ) I might not even have to do anything to get a boom-a-rang effect! :shock: :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Hagan Posted July 18, 2004 Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 One of the Weekender builders had a very pronounced keel curvature, but it didn't seem to matter a bit. And I remember reading about a 100+ year old sailing boat from a scandanavian country that, when they finally took lines off her, was decidedly asymetrical. Makes me feel better anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stump Posted July 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 Actually Frank, that makes me feel GREAT!!! Today I put in the center seat just forwared of the frame piece and made a kick up rudder with a liftable tiller. Stole the lines off my Weekender and just lightened it up some, 1/4 inch eyebolts, 1/2 inch ply for the rudder itself, 1/4 inch side pieces and used standard "one inch" for the spacers, worked real well. Tiller is a 2x2 with 1x2 "jaws" attatched to the box with a 1/4 inch bolt to pivot up and down. Got a camera, now I have to figure out how to use it :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidmarsh Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 I think you will need two lee boards ... and a way to pull one up on the windward side when you tack (I think that's the way they work). You do see offset centerboards on boats ... I wonder how far offset you can go before you start sailing in circles? :wink: You don't necessarily need 2 leeboards as long as a single leeboard is sufficiently braced to handle the loads when it is on the windward side. Take a look at Jim Michalak's designs for numerous examples of single kick-up leeboards: http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/sail.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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