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Posted

i want to say African...but, i don't have the receipt in front of me. I have enough to make the mast and the gaffjaw (handle thing <--spar?) but not enough for the shelves inside or the other small projects so, I will be going to Austin Hardwoods later next week and picking up some more...also, going to look for some walnut...a client of mine made a man's dressing chair out of walnut and it is beautiful. I'd like to have some laying around for a project or two.

Also, the bandsaw has given me renewed hope in making my own wheel. I need enough mahogany to do that tOo.

my camera shoots yellowish sometimes...so, that may be why it looks like oak.


Posted

i have the birdsmouth bits from Lee valley....and will make a pretend mast in a small version and then full size out of DF for practice...Heavy isn't really an issue...i am not concerned with performance...i can't figure the hollow mast in mahogany to be any heavier than the solid DF 4x4....my goals include nice finish work (obvious slowdown on the whole process), a boat that floats and launching this summer....

a.

Posted

Give some thought on staining spruce to suit, then varnish, in lieu of mahogany. Top weight is important too.

Remember this is the first stepping stone.

Posted

Birdmouth saves some weight, but not an appreciable amount in a mast of this size. Speaking of steeping stones; remember you have to step that buggar! ;) Mine is solid DF and it aint light. ;)

And yes, weight aloft is a concern, even if you aren't concerned with performance, sooner or later you will be in a blow when you will have wished for less weight aloft. :);)

Posted

I agree with Oyster on this. Although a birdsmouth mast is lighter than the equivalent in solid material, Mahogany is quite a bit heavier than some other suitable woods. Sitka Spruce would be ideal, but may not be available in Las Vegas. It can be stained Mahogany and finishes out beautifully. Grain isn't quite as fine as Mahogany but then the sanding dust isn't as toxic either.

Weight is something of a factor and my mast is solid Doug Fir also, so it is fairly heavy. After being on a few boats with both lighter and heavier masts, some ballasted and some not, I've come to the conclusion that it is best to keep it as light as possible without sacrificing strength. Stepping it may be a challenge for those that are vertically challenged. :wink:

It will be interesting to see what your "mock-up" of Doug Fir weights in comparrison. That may be an interesting end of discussion either way. :lol:

Your port hole rings are going to be a nice addition.

Posted

whelp...firstly i am not vertically challenged, ya'll are toO tall. THar i was sittin' most comfortably in my dual tool work station today fastening things together....thinkin' this ought to be big enough for the chop saw...fits me, eh?

the mast OOOOOhhh the mMmmmmast. Las veGas is a lousy place to look for wood...must go to big orange box...sift through DF (ONLY). SiTkA spruce...WHat is it? We are geographically challenged here. i am going to make practice mast first...and after a recent conversation, i will be making the tabernacle higher. THe mahogany is aweful purdy....i love the tight grain, iridescent thing it does. WEight is an issue...eh? well, i am not quite thar. Just getting set up for it.

Stepping stone? i say the first stepping stone is when i went crazy and cut the pine for the keel....that was HUGE for me...barely managed to get my heart rate down....whEEEeHHHEEE AAHHAAWWWWWWW!

on a serious note...i am just getting to the part about where i get the seats glassed in and a liddle floatation...making another wheel and hatch covers.....the mast is its own issue....i may also toy with some weight in the boat (talking my 160lb dog into wearing a pfd)....

a.

Posted

i don't want to get hit in the head by the boOm. :shock:

Jan, i am surprised at how the whole thing is coming together...i'm not super thrilled with some of my woodtworking but the portholes turned out nice.

i cut the scuppers this morning....and about had a heat stroke. I put them about every 24 inches and they are 2 inches long.

HOW critical is the positioning for the chainplates? The reason i ask is that if i look at the plans and i look at the front of the boat...there may be a 2 inch difference in what the front was supposed to look like and what it does look like...my plywood meets the stem lower than the front of the deck...so, is the measurement 74 inches from the stem or 74 inches from the edge of the deck????

a.

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Posted

Since it calls for 74" from where the hull sides meet the stem and you are further forward than that with your hull sides, I would just measure about 75-76" back and then 11" between them. This isn't quite so critical as the shrouds will still provide enough support. The main issue is swing of the boom off to the sides. 1-2" isn't really going to make much of a difference.

Just do it! :roll:

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