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Posted

OK, I have the boat in the shop, finally! :) :) The mast is stepped! , yup, the shop it that tall (after avoideing teh bottom chord of the trusses and the cat walk).

Can't locate my plans yet, after the move. On the forward end of the gaff, is there supposed to be an eybolt to secure the head of the mainsail??

Additionally, can anybody explain or point me to the correct knot to tie off the Deadeyes with?? What I did temporarily is not holding sufficiently.

I have a little minor repair work to do (failed rubrail scarfs) and then I will begin attaching the sails and finishing the running rigging! :)

Thanks! :)


Posted

Thanks Craig and Ray!

Ray, I am assuming a simple 8 around the static line? Maybe a few??

Craig,maybe I need the rigging diagrahams? As the head of the main sail has a grommet, I am assuming I need an eye on the underside of the gaff to attach this to, though it appears as though the sail won't lay fair along the luff if I do so????

Lace the top of the sail to the gaff, correct (sorry about terminology, that book is also missing). :)

Getting cold and predicting snow again. :)

Posted
I use a single figure eight knot on both ends of each rope. IE: 2 figure 8 knots per deadeye set.

Jake, check your email

OK, I have the one one teh standing end, but only one 8 on the static end, the adjustable end??

I did, and I Replied!! :)

i found the plans!!!!!!! :) whoopy!!! :) But it doesn't answer my question. :( Off to the picture gallery!!!! :)

Posted

I have most of the main up in the air, though I still have a few things i need to figure out. Namely the loose-fopted main? How much touque is there on the end of the boom? I think I need to beef up the connections!??

For the first time since building... I am getting SCARED of it!!! :) That is a whole bunch of cloth up there with no ballast!!! :shock: :shock:

I am really starting to think about the ballast as Ray has posted!! Do I really need to? Or am I just being a whimp, as the last time i sailed aniything 'small' it was a sunfish???

Eeh gads, now onto pouring ballast??!! Seriously, it is dounting to look at it in it's glory!!! And scary! :)

HELP!! i need a life ring!! :)

Posted

Ballast required to go sailing in the shop. ROFLMHO, modifed for general audiences. :wink: I hav :P:lol: e heard everything, now. LOL!!! Gotta a simple one for you. Find some bird shot for reloads, comes in bulk bags here, and place in secure and sealed bags. Store in closed areas, or make you a small steel skid plate to screw to the bottom, bedded in place. BUt I know you already knew this. It will not rust in your shop, either. :lol:

Posted

Ok Jake,

Here are some photos of various Deadeyes as rigged on traditional boats.

Perhaps this will take your mind off of ballast for awhile. :lol:

In all cases the weaving begins with a figure "8" knot on the upper deadeye and is finished off by seizing the ends once tightened.

[attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Posted

One sure thing though, to be sure. It won't sink or turn over in your shop. And it won't get blemished by those awful wooden docks around the launch sites. :shock:

Put another coat of wax on it to make it easier to dust off while you work on the rigging. :wink:

Posted

ha ha ah all you schmucks! :) :) LOL I appreciate ALL of the information I have received!!!

I will forgoe the ballast at present, per the responses! Thanks!! I means that!!!

I need to re-configure the deadeyes, as I think I did them upside down, if that makes any sense? I started from the wrong end? :oops: :oops: Didn't realize this, well yes I did, just waited a year to admit it! :)

I have the Lapper jib in place and have to rig the lines for that.

My son gave me a hard time about the topping lift.. 'You have to tell these people about this!!". "No, I found out about it from THEM!". :) :wink:

Thnak goodness for the elevated shop hieght! I can scale a ladder and get things done up there!!!

I am at a loss as to what sort of knot to use with a double braid line; at teh end of the gaff?????? Meaning the lashing with a 1/4" double braid to secure teh top of the sail to the gaff. I have it lashed on OK, just the terminatiion knot?? How to tie this stuff and have it remain secure???

Ballast in the shop?? LOL Oyter, just how 'big' do you think I am??? Or more correctly, how much wind do you think I blow??? LOL LOL :) :)

No response needed, I blow myself over at times! LOL :) :)

Actually, I am surprised that I was able to get this done today, as I had to completely clean and re-arrange the shop. Hang cabinets etc..... I haven't had the time to really study what needs to happen in the shop, since we moved in, so I am amazed we got as far as we did today! :shock: :D

I definitely need to add on... But I also need to find a rich uncle! L :(

Posted

Jake I have never liked the way my main set at the head eyelet. I have moved the connection twice and it still doesnt lay fair at the top of the mast. Oh well, close enough. Start with the stock position and alter as required. I ran an eye bolt through the gaff and put a threaded eye on the top for the halard. I have since moved the halyard eye aft and then, finally replaced it with a bridle that works infinitly better. I also moved the bridle attachment back another inch aft. I am using saillrite sails and I suspect the angles are a bit diffrent than the Stevenson design. On the loose footed main, for my money it is the only way to go. All of my gaffer books recommend it for better power and the boat handles much better IMHO. You must use an outhaul to control the shape for differing wind conditions however.. Take your time with the ballast. The lead shot is a good idea to find the amount and trim point you need. Sail her for a year before you play with the ballest. In your area it may not really be a factor. I sail on a very big bay and the waves come with the wind. Keeping the nose down really helps. I did however make many choices that altered the design trim of the boat so the trim problem is my fault. For termination of lines and ropes I like to use the metal rope eyes( forgot the real name now) and whip the bitter end by sewing and whipping with lace cord. It doesn't snag and using a quick link or other boaty metal attachment device (clevis with a screw pin) it eliminates the chafe on the lines. I an using fairly good rope and want to maximize the service life. That said however, closeline rope will get you started.

Posted

Just get it in the water and try it out. I think a lot of your concerns will fall away. As to shop worry, I agree to some point: When it's on the trailer and the sails are up it IS a little odd-feeling. The boat can't give at all, or else it can get blown off the trailer if you do something stupid (and we've come close.) A very big thing which people also forget (especially when building the cockpit): When the boat's on the water it will give a little. On land you can put your foot through something which you'd never be able to do on the water.

Just buld 'em and use 'em.

Mike

Posted

Hey Craig, any photos of your rigging?? I am curious about the bridle.

I have the outhaul installed (late last inght) and it works like a charm.

I have to go the supply house to pick up a few things to finish teh jib sheets.

I am seriously thinking about getting a 40 # thrust electric trolling motor and installing teh battery in the forward hatch. These two outboards I have are short shaft and I don't see a way of making them work. At least work in a reasonable fashion. Walmart has the electric on sale for about $160 now and it is the saltwater version.

Posted

I'm running #4 from the batteries to the switch panel. Then #8 from the panel to the motor. Mine is being run thru PVC electrical conduit from forepeak to main bulkhead and then from the main bulkhead to the stern (lazerette). I figured that with PVC I wouldn't need to worry about getting things messed up. :?

Two patteries in the forepeak, switch panel on the main bulkhead just below the cabin top. Then one heavy pair to the motor plug in and one light pair for stern light.

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