Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I see B&B have the P26 plan set for sale now. Anyone, besides me, seriously contemplating building one? My time table to start is going to be delayed by about a year, but I expect to purchase the plan set long before that. My wife demands I finish the other boat projects and the house remodeling prior to starting the P26.


Posted

I`m very interested in this design I think it would make a very usefull boat. I think that because of the offset center board fitting a marinised automotive engine as an inboard might be possible. Suzuki minicars have 660cc engines that woud give about 60 hp, although the transmission might be a problem. Shouldn`t need as much balast either, though it might mess up the C of G.

The princess looks like it could easily benifit from transom skirts to strech it to 28 feet or so. This would make a great diving platform. If the interior was minimal I think this could be a great daysailer, nice big cockpit.

I`d like one of these but the CS17 will come first

thebob.

Posted

Sixty Horsepower!!!

Bob, what are you thinking?!!

TEN horsepower would probably get you to hull speed, weigh less, take up much less room, cost less, be less complicated, generate more than enough to charge your batteries, cost much less to operate, and therefore give you much more range on a smaller fuel tank.

Other than that, I see no reason not to build a sailboat to carry around your engine.

Gordy

Guest Anonymous
Posted

Hmmmm? Perhaps the added HP is for a lot of appliances.....runs the generator?

Posted
Sixty Horsepower!!!

Bob' date=' what are you thinking?!!

TEN horsepower would probably get you to hull speed, weigh less, take up much less room, cost less, be less complicated, generate more than enough to charge your batteries, cost much less to operate, and therefore give you much more range on a smaller fuel tank.

Other than that, I see no reason not to build a sailboat to carry around your engine.

Gordy[/quote']

This design needs so much balast that by replacing it with cheap engine weight alone would be economical. A 10 horsepower outboard is a lot of money compared to an automotive power plant (especially one of these micro car engines.) Spares availability and cost would be much lower.

If you need 10 HP to get your to hull speed, would you

A. Run a 10 HP outboard at full speed.

B. Run a 20 HP outboard at half speed

C. Run a small, light, reliable, cheap engine that is easy to source parts for, just off idle.

These engines are far cheaper than even 3HP outboards where I will be building.

thebob

Posted

Bob, you make a strong case for the alternate power plant!

Gasoline has a bad rap for engine compartments, which I think is due to the explosive nature of the fumes (with diesel being much less of a problem). But that can be dealt with in the design.

I would go the outboard route myself, because I like the simplicity of it. And where I live, you can always find people who know how to service them (and can get the parts needed!)

Posted

Maybe for a bigger boat, Frank.

Bob, I see you've given this some thought. Have you priced a marine transmission?...stuffing box?...prop, shaft, and strut?

I would guess you're not considering one of those expensive folding props, so you're going to accept the drag.

I imagine you're not going to trailer the boat, but if you are I don't think it will add too many complications. Most ramps are deep enough.

Personally, I sail where my oars often contact the bottom, but if you accept another 8 - 10 inches of draft you should be fine.

Have you considered an air cooled Briggs and stratton?

Do you really, really want all that stuff sticking out the bottom of your boat?

Actually, for a small boat I don't think there is a really good solution. All the answers have drawbacks.

Gordy

"Time flies like an arrow - fruit flies like a banana"

Posted

If I went the Briggs route. I'd plum for a Thai style long tail design. Just a support tube for the prop with a bearing or two on a frame mounted in pintles. Either to replace the rudder or fixed alongside.

Frank wrote

"Bob, I see you've given this some thought. Have you priced a marine transmission?...stuffing box?...prop, shaft, and strut? "

I'd run the transaxle that comes with the motor. It's a FWD and has a cable operated selector and clutch. I was thinking of just cutting off the unecessary drive shaft and bolting it, by a welded flange, to the transaxle, to get drive to the other drive shaft. If I needed reduction, which I doubt, I'd use a VW bus reduction box.

Most of the dive boats here use small truck diesel motors driving solid locally made stainless propshafts, and bearings. These are large bamboo outrigger "Bankas".

Machine shop costs here are in the order of $3 - $5 per hour. And welding stainless is a speciality.

If they were cheaper I'd use a motorcycle engine and chain drive.

I'm a great believer in adapting to local conditions.

thebob

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.