When, and to what, to add the non-skid sand

[Fintan Murphy]

Hi all,

I would like to ask the general wisdom of you all on the best time to add the non-skid on the deck.

At the moment the deck is epoxied, and another coat would not hurt. So I could add the sand onto the next fresh layer of epoxy, then paint over that when dry. Or I could add the next coat of epoxy, and add the sand to the paint primer, or the undercoat, or the top coat.

Or should I put on another coat of epoxy, then the sand, then a sealing layer of epoxy over the sand?

The only reason I can see to adding it to the paint is that it would get renewed if I ever sanded and painted again. But that is probably not going to happen. If I repaint, I would probably do so over the existing coat, rather than sand it off.

It also appears that the non-skid gets better with a few coats of paint on it, i.e. it is not as rough.

I also have the option of buying one of those rubberised additives for the paint, but I already have the playsand.

What did y'all do?

[Mike Donlin]

We used crushed walnut shells on our boats, easier on the knees and feet. You can find walnut shells at a gun or transmission shop, used for polishing brass and metal. Also pet stores carry it for some type of bedding.

We put the shells on the last coat of epoxy and locked it down with another coat of epoxy. Just mask off the areas that you want non skid with tape and put down a thin coat of epoxy, sprinkle in the nonskid, put more epoxy over the top and let it dry. We felt the shells were too sharp so we hit them with a sander and then another layer of epoxy and finally the deck paint. That made it just right, plenty of grip, but easier on my tender feet.

[Guest Anonymous]

Gidday Fitan

A mate in Canberra who is a skiff painter of some years experience has used many things and last year tried sugar in the paint with good success... have a look through the posts on the Woodenboat.com forum by one "Wild Wassa" {actual name Warren} in either the building section, resources or misc boat related.

low cost high effective level it would seem ideal

Shane

[Guest Anonymous]

oooh Fintan {sorry forgot the first n mate :roll: }

Warren essentially paints his first layer of paint on then puts sprinkles or pours sugar over the still wet paint then once the paint is dry washes the residue of the sugar of what is left is essentially craters in the paint... and ergo your non slip tread.

Shane

[TexasPhil]

That's an interesting idea. I have heard of the same technique with salt on concrete to form the non-skid, like on sidewalks and driveways.

I think I am going to use some of that rubberized paint for my non-skid... if I ever get that far.

[Wild_Dingo]

yeah Phil it sorta made everyone sit up and go... eh???... but from what Warrens said since it worked a treat... so cheep and effective non skid covering.

Shane

mmm yep those other 2 were me... I just couldnt for the life of me remember me login name when I wrote the others!!! :?

[Konrad in Lincoln]

Even though the prints don't call for it here, I would like to suggest adding non skid to the area on top of the cabin lid, where you stand to raise and lower the mast. The place right where the cabin lid slides forward.

On a Weekender, it might not be so critical, but on the Vacationer, the mast is big enough that you want all the traction you can get when stepping the mast.

[Frank Hagan]

I vote for putting the non-skid in another thin coat of epoxy, then painting.

Mike hit on the technique I used, although the crushed walnut shells might be impossible to find there. But even with sand it would work. I masked off along the toe rail and cabin top, then cut radiuses (radiii?) into the intersections with a razor knife. Did that along the seats, cabin top and cockpit floor too. When I had the areas masked off the way I wanted, I rolled on a very thin coat of epoxy and then sprinkled on my non-slip material. Pull up the masking tape before the epoxy cures (I waited a half hour) and don't worry about excess falling into the recently revealed areas. When the epoxy is completely dry use a vacuum to suck up the excess.

Then, you can decide to put another coat of epoxy or just paint on top. You'll probably find a coat of epoxy and a couple of paint will help with the sharp edges of the sand.

I did the cabin top as Konrad mentioned, and then every horizontal surface that could get wet ... the deck, the seats, the floor of the cockpit.