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Posted

I don't know the exact answer to your question but I used 6oz cloth from Raka and had no problem with wetting out the corners you mention. I did however radius those corners somewhat with a sander so I would guess that they were no less than 1/4".

Posted

Denis,

Instead of a sharp edge, it is eased by creating a radius on the edge. In the case of using fiberglass to reinforce the joints, the weakest point is the joint itself. If the joint is eased or radiused, the cloth will conform better to the material it is applied to and form a solid joint. In the case of applying fiberglass to cover the material, the weakest point will be at the joint where it is wrapping around a corner. If it is radiused or eased, the cloth again maintains its strength and it doesn't crack at that point. The smallest practical radius would be about 1/4", anything larger is better. It also helps to establish a better contact between the fiberglass cloth and the wood below. Smaller radius corners tend to pull the cloth away from the wood below as it is wetted out leaving a hollow or dry spot below it. That weakens that area and can cause problems.

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Posted

We used the 5 oz. cloth from Raka on Star Chaser and found that 3/8" really works best. You can get away with 1/4" but you have to be careful of how you work the epoxy into the cloth. I used a 3/8" radius on the chines and 1/2" on all the inside radiuses'. We used a 2 3/8" radius on the keel to bottom fillet. I used a 1/4" radius on the stern block and had a terrible time keeping the glass down.

Save yourself the headach and plan on using at least 3/8" or larger radius.

Bob

Posted

I would agree whole heartedly. The larger the radius, the better the contact and the easier it is to work with it. If you are using heavier fiberglass cloth, it will need a larger radius yet. Doesn't matter whether it is an inside radius or outside radius. Larger is better on boats for a lot of reasons. This is just one. :D:D

Posted

I am glad this subject came up... I was thinking about overhanging the seat about 1", actually moving the vertical seat fronts back an inch, but this would be a pain to glass.

I want to glass, so I have two options: either do original plan or thicken the seat lip so it is thick enough for the radius. I think about 3/4" would do it (full semi-circle not just a quarter-circle)

Phil

Posted

Phil, you do realize that 3/4" instead of the specified 1/4" would add a lot of weight don't you. (I take it your building a Weekender) Your adding weight to the stern of the boat, the place you don't want it.

Bob

Posted

You're welcome Denis. I have the same challenges once in a while. Even with English as my language.

You are making good progress, it is nice to see the photos. Keep on posting and asking questions. As you can see there are a lot of good answers from other builders. :wink:

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