costek Posted March 17, 2018 Report Posted March 17, 2018 Hello to everyone. I'm getting ready to make a Vacationer. However, the LWL line does not appear on the plan. If you take the line line on the spine to get a balance, the transom is buried in the water. When trying to adjust according to appearance in the water, the line on the spine is angled at 3 degrees. Is there someone to help me? Quote
Designer Posted March 17, 2018 Report Posted March 17, 2018 Mehmet, I do not know much about the vacationer but the blue line is intended to be the LWL. That said I would paint the water line above the blue line as it looks a bit optimistic to my eye that it would float that light in it's normal operating load with people on board. Remember that the water is rarely flat and small boats are rarely in perfect trim. Quote
costek Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Posted March 18, 2018 Hello designer. Thank you for your interest. I agree with what you say. But; you need to refer to the LWL line to get the balance while you're build the boat so that you can balance it with the boat when the boat is down. According to the sighting plan on the vacationer, the only straight line for reference is the line on the spine. But when the boat is standing on the water, the head is more buried in the water; which, as shown in the picture, causes a 3-degree bow at the spine line. It may seem little, but the big problem for building interior design is; "a curve table, a curve cooker, a curve bed... etc.) Is there a solution that I can not see? Can someone who has done Vacationer help? Quote
alexscott Posted March 18, 2018 Report Posted March 18, 2018 Looking at the plan for the scale model of the Vacationer: http://custompaperpocketyachts.k-j-g.com/papermodels/Vacationer/vacmodel.pdf it looks to me that the 'spline' line is just a baseline for the measurements of the external keel and has no relationship to the LWL. If you block the hull up with the forward and aft ends of the bottom at the same elevation, you should be able to use a level to set the interior at the right angle. From the pictures on the Stevenson website, it seems the bottom at the bow is a little above the WL and the bottom of the transom is a little below, but this may be because of crew in the cockpit. Quote
costek Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Posted March 18, 2018 Yes Alex; you are right the line on the spine is not LWL. In this case, for interior space construction; we will need to adjust the balance according to the bottom panel's head and aft. In this case it would be correct to mention this issue in the plan. Your comment gave me an idea thank you . Quote
alexscott Posted March 18, 2018 Report Posted March 18, 2018 After further thought, how about KISS? Build the boat with an empty cabin & spend a few nights aboard before doing any interior joinery. No good plan survives contact with the enemy- you may have quite different ideas about what you want. Quote
PAR Posted March 18, 2018 Report Posted March 18, 2018 I've found the Vacationer will trim with the transom just free of the water, though this is highly dependent on crew location and how over built the boat tends to end up. With the skipper married to a wheel, she'll trim down aft a bit, maybe enough to have the transom just kissing the water. If looking for a good starting point for the boot stripe, level the boat side to side and jack her up at the bow until a laser level will touch the bottom plank/stem joint and the corner of the transom, at the same time. This is roughly level, but a bit heavy. Measure up on the transom an 1 1/2" and make a mark. Measure up on the stem/bottom plank joint about 1" and connect these two points with your laser level. This will be the bottom of the boot stripe. It's a real good idea to "sweep" this line with about an additional 1" forward and about a 1/2" aft. This simply means when you pull your tape to mark the bottom of the boot, about 48" - 60" aft of the stem you'll gradually raise the line in a nice sweeping curve up to the new slightly raised mark. The same is done at the stern, though start about 36" - 48" forward of the transom for this slight curve. This creates an optical illusion on the bottom of the boot stripe line, so she'll look like she's in good trim, when in fact she'll rarely be so. The top of the boot stripe line is treated the same way, but with a little more sweep in the ends, maybe as much as 3/4" forward and 3/8" aft. The reality in these builds, is the actual LWL may very well be all over the place from one project to the next. Unless you've had a real LWL, likely employed as a base line in the lines and construction drawings, it's just a guess, which isn't a problem. Build her well enough to get her in the water and mark, where it eventually turns out to be. Again, not that uncommon a thing and a "build to the work" not to the plans thing. You have two choices, build to the plans or build to what you have (the work). Building to the work always looks better, though will probably add (or subtract) from your bald spot a touch. Quote
costek Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Posted March 20, 2018 Hi. Thank you for your interest. But actually I didn't understand what you said. Only this part. "Build her well enough to get her in the water and mark, where it eventually turns out to be. Again..." Whatever; when I start to build, I can find a way. Thank you anyway. Quote
Chick Ludwig Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 On 3/18/2018 at 6:26 PM, PAR said: with your laser level. Some of us don't have this. A simple method is a "water level". For this purpose, a clear hose with water almost filling it works fine. Hold one end of the hose just above where you want the water line at on end, then lift the other end of the hose until the water comes up to that mark. The water at both ends will be at the same level, so as you keep the water at your mark, move the other end of the hose to the other end, or wherever where you want to find and mark the water line. You'll need two folks for this. Water always seeks the same level. Gosh, that sounds complicated, but is really very simple. This will make it easier to understand: Here is a video of someone using it to mark the waterline. Quote
costek Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Posted March 20, 2018 Hi Ludvik; first thank you for that your efforts. But I must say, I have not a problem how can we find waterline. My trouble is that on Vacationer plan has no a mark to show us waterline. Whatever; when the time comes I'll solve this problem. But I don't think as you. the sample that you gave us is not right way. Yes we can find straight line with hose scale but that is not show us thats point is waterline. Also you can find alot of point " LWL " on the same boat. As you can. My friends; this subject closed for me anymore. To everyone thank you very much for yours reply. Bu if there is someone who build "Vacationer" I want to discuss about the plan, and about performance of Vacationer. Quote
PAR Posted March 21, 2018 Report Posted March 21, 2018 The Vacationer is a design I know well. Being a flat bottom boat, you only need to level her side to side, then jack up one end, until the transom edge and the stem/bottom planking joint are about as described above. A cheap single line laser will cost less than $10 bucks, though a self leveling one, that produces both vertical and horizontal lines can be had for about $30 bucks. Quote
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