ecgossett

Has anybody looked into this project? http://www.psnw.com/~jmrudholm/etekoutboard.html It looks like a promising idea for the core sound... Any comments or better ideas?

I know my front is slightly off due to having to re-loft the forward 3 feet. Not much I can do about that at this point with out considerable expense for more materials. I did the corrections on the forward bulkhead to make it fit. Everything else seems to fit... It just seems that I burst some wire in unfolding. Probably shouldn't have used the rebar wire.

Two Problems .... Any Ideas? 1) between temp frame and forward bulkhead I had some wires break and have a crack between hulls... Even using clamps and a board under to push up wood cannot get it to go back together.. Can I live with this problem? It could have been slightly miss-cut.

To semi fix the forward bulkhead I've shaved a 1/8" off each side and almost 1" off the bottom... It seems to be fitting better now... The bottom lines for the foward bulkhead are almost straight now instead of curved.. Not sure if that's ok.

On my forward bulkhead are the bottom cuts just supposed to be angled or curved as well? Curved it doesn't seem to fit very well. The other problem is on the port side around the bulkhead line the wood as popped/bubbled in instead of outword. Not sure how to fix it.. Even standing on the bubble didn't seem to work. The wood seems to be kicking my butt.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/02/articles/woodenblocks/woodenblocks.htm

I did some searching online and have not found anything about making homemade blocks for boats... I am interested in making wood shelled blocks for the CS17 I'm building.. Does anyone know of any online descriptions of making blocks or where to go? V/R Edward

I had someone who offered me a pile of beautiful yellow grain pine boards. He was planing some down to redo the inside of his boat... Other boaters told me it would be a mistake using yellow pine... Yet historically it was a great boat-building material and resists rot.

I'm having trouble finding fir locally... Can I substitute cedar for internal parts of the boat?

Fixed my problem with the bottom... I'm wondering how much higher is the bow supposed to be then the transom? I've looked at the plans and cannot figure it out but want to do the tube/water method of leveling the boat. Also on some CS's I noticed the inwale is installed before bulkhead positioning and filleting and taping begins.. Is this normal?

Being in the St. Mary's river which empties the Okephonkee Swamp we have some very blackish water. Some of the cleaner looking boats are painted dark red, regular (royal) red, or dark blue. Other wise some of the boats painted a almost brownish/yellow white blend in very well. I have noticed waxing the boat with a good 3M Marine Wax keeps the dirt off for a couple of trips.

I have enjoyed taking a Flying Scot out and was told the CS17 is similar in how it handles. Just a good stable boat..

Try this tip for a using a circular saw. http://www.ehow.com/how_2239068_convert-portable-circular-saw-table.html I know Lowes sells Rip Fences that hook to the circular saw and allow you to cut straight lines very easily. http://www.rd.com/how-to-use-a-circular-saw-to-make-long-cuts/article18171.html Try this article as well.

Here's a photo of my new lofting for the front.. Basically I used a drywall square, and a regular square ruler as I had not edge anymore for the measurements. The drywall ruler has a horizontal and vertical measurements. I would set something like 6 inches vertically lining up with the edge. Then horizontally I would goto 12" which I was off and use the regular ruler at a 90 degree angle and see how far away that edge was.. The different between the two numbers is how much I would off set my new point... This kind of sucks but it works to redraw the angles. For cutting the 1 foot of fiberglass apart a friend loaned me a diamond blade tile cutter rotary saw... This blade was thin and didn't cut the wood and sliced through the fiberglass like butter. Later, Edward

I rechecked all the other measurements and lofting lines.. Everything was fine for the sides, and for most of the bottom until I got to the bow. That's when I realized after a certain point it was to long.

From the forward end of the bottom I made it to long... Basically the curve forward is a foot to long. My measurement was done off the forward bulkhead instead of the last 36" mark. This made the forward bow point to far off. I've made my mind up... I'm going to cut the bow point fiberglass apart (used to butterfly), and reloft the forward 48" of the boat.. Should fix the problem. Lesson learned... I attached a photo to show.. The black line is what I should have made my twenty something inch measurement off on the bottom. The green line is the fwd bulkhead measurement which I used wrongly. I just roughly drew the colored lines in paint to describe the problem. It should be easy to reloft and cut the little bit on the bow. Later, Edward

Worse... It's an exact 12" 7/8" to long.. Somehow I measured my last 36" off of the forward bulkhead line for the bottom instead of the right place.... This changes the hull shape a little as well. Not sure if I need to tear the fiber glass off and recut the forward curve.. Would it be easier to extend the boat the 12"?

We had the same problem on our Camp on Blythe Island near Brunswick GA. A developer and the big houses on the way to the island wanted the camp gone. Where willing to give semi-better land somewhere else to acquire the island. We lucked out by the economy crashing the the developer declaring bankruptcy.

Problem with the sides.... I opened up my boat today after wiring and my sides are about 1' short on the back. I've remeasured and everything seems to check out... At least for the sides, the bottom seems close as far as I can tell since I haven't refolded the boat together... Am I missing something or just being stupid? V.R Edward

I'll be visiting Souda Bay very soon and was curious if anyone knew of any good places to charter a sailboat for a day?

Any ideas on designs that B&B has that would be good to pull behind a CS17 for some cargo or as a boat to go ashore? I've considered a kayak but not worth it, because only seats up to two which can't get my kids in it. Basically I need a boat that pulls well, can be covered with canvas to keep water out, then boarded and rowed/motored in when parked at a mooring etc. Ideas? V/R Edward

My bad! It's been a long day

For the bottom forward does anyone have suggestions on how to go from 3/4" plywood to 1/4" plywood for bottom mid and forward?

I did my first scarf joints today... Used a borrowed power planer to knock off the first stuff, then the rest was a hand planer, and finished it with a borrowed(cheap) belt sander... Coated with epoxy gave it a minute added some epoxy with wood dust and clamped it together.. Do I need to put any fiberglass tape over the scarf?

I was rearranging my wood today and my cat walked up and took a leak on my marine plywood. I blotted up what I could with paper towels. Anybody else had the same problem? Should I use some cleaner on the wood?