cdunc

I might have missed this in the plans but what is the recommended length for oars on a Spindrift 12. I found some formulas online for calculating the length but one formula calculated 8.5 feet and the other 7.5 feet so I would rather get a recommendation from an actual user. Thanks, Craig Duncan

Very nice. I hope my S12 paint job looks as nice as yours. Still a long way off for me. Congrats, Craig

On a different post someone pointed out that measuring the resin and hardener by weight is not correct due to the difference in density. I had been mixing up small batches of epoxy with a 2:1 ratio by weight instead of volume. Due to the difference I really wasn't getting the 2:1 ratio. Graham said that the difference in mixing by weight vs volume is too slight to worry about. In the small quantities I had been mixing up to that point it would be even less significant. Since I am using Graham's epoxy I figure he would know. Since I find it much easier to use a digital scale than lines drawn on a plastic cup with a sharpie I decided to improve my formula. Using 2 small 3 oz cups with equal amounts of water (by weight) I drew lines on the cups. I then poured the resin into one cup and hardener into the other up to the lines I had drawn. After measuring the 2 cups I found that the hardener was 30 grams and the resin was 35 grams. With those numbers I can now measure out the proper 2:1 volume of epoxy very quickly. I still use the pump for the hardener since it is not as thick as the resin. So 30 grams of hardener goes into a cup and then I poor 70 grams of resin for an even 100 grams. If I want to double amount then I pump out 60 grams and 140 grams for an even 200 grams. Pouring the resin is sooo! much easier than pumping. This makes mixing up a batch quick and painless. Just thought I would share this for people to use or to be shot full of holes. ;D Craig

I am getting ready to start building the centerboard trunk. I read in the Devlin book about using kitchen laminate for the interior of the trunk. Has anyone used this method? Any thoughts? I happen to have some laying around from a previous project.

I am also building an S12 and I used the butt joint method as described in the B&B plans. You can go either way. This is my first boat so I stuck with the directions. For the next boat, I will probably try the scarfing method. I am not as far along as Greg. My boat would not sink immediately but it would eventually. I don't have all the seams filleted and taped on the inside of the boat. I might be able to bail faster than the water comes in but I can wait until some warmer weather. They are talking about some possible snow here in Atlanta. Craig

Things have been moving slow on the build. The weather in Hotlanta wasn't so hot. It was hard to get motivated to work in a cold garage plus I was worried that the epoxy wouldn't cure. So out came the measuring tape. I figured out that the boat will fit in the basement work shop. I was not building in the shop because I was afraid that if I built in there I might never get it out. But after some measuring of the window opening and my floor space I decided it could be done. So now my boat is in a nice warm shop for the winter and all my tools that were spread between the shop and the garage are happily hanging in there appointed spots. All is good. Which means I am making some progress. I have most of the inside seams filleted and taped. The gunwales have been installed. I still need to install the knees at the transom. When is it okay to remove the temporary center frame? Craig

True that the pumps measure volume. So if the hardener and resin are of different density then doing it by weight would be bad. Since I am using the same pumps for both parts and a full pump puts out the same volume and they both weigh the same then the density is equivalent, correct? density = mass/volume. I emailed Graham to ask about my pumps and they are identical, but apparently there is a spacer under the pump handle on the stem that can be used to restrict the handle to a half pump. I did not notice the spacer when they arrived. I will have to check them when I get home. Both my pumps travel the same distance so they are both pumping their full volume. I will try to do some measurements to prove my theory that the density is the same.

Yes. One pump of the resin is 30 grams. One pump of the hardener is also 30 grams. I checked that the first time I mixed the epoxy. I usually mix up a small batch at a time. Which is 2 parts(pumps) resin and 1 part(pump) hardener.

I have the pumps from Graham and both pumps are identical. They both pump the same amount. I use a digital kitchen scale to measure out the epoxy. One pump puts out 30 grams. So two pumps from the resin and one pump from the hardener gives me 90 grams. I can mix up smaller batches using the kitchen scale. I am using Graham's epoxy and the slow hardener. Craig

The instructions call the "tack welds" mini fillets. Fillets are made with thickened epoxy, so I am assuming that my tack welds should be using thickened epoxy. Is that a correct assumption? Update on the video of going 3d. I cannot find the cable I need to connect the camcorder to the PC. I will find it or buy a new one and load the video at some point. I spend 8 hours a day 5 days a week in front of a computer so I would rather spend my off time doing other things, like building a boat. Thanks in Advance, Craig

The order of construction for the S12 are the same, wire hull (bulkhead, frame and transom as you go), check hull for straightness, "tack" weld your hull, breasthook knees and gunwales, epoxy fillet and fiberglass tape seams inside.

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement. I would never have started this project without the supportive forum that we have here. I will be installing the bulkhead, temp. frame and transom soon. Will post more pics then. When does the boat stiffen up? After the bulkhead, frame and transom? Of after the "spot" welds are in place? Craig

And I did get some video. I will have to figure out how to get it loaded on youtube.

I had a busy afternoon. I recruited my daughter and her friend to help stabilize the boat and managed to get it to 3D. Man is my back tired. Here are some pictures.

After chatting with Graham I decided to attach the beam to the forward bulkhead before going 3D. Graham recommends it so that you have some solid wood to screw into. So I have everything set to go 3D. It seems like I will need at least one extra helper if not two. Can it be done solo? I can recruit the kids to help me out. Should I go ahead and screw in some reinforcement blocks at the bow seams for preventative measures? Thanks in advance, Craig p.s. I will try capturing the opening of the butterfly to video if possible. Will definitely have stills.

No new pictures yet. But I have been busy since returning from the mess-about. My bottom panels have been cut and I created the butterflies. I need to attach the transom stiffener before I open it up to go 3D. I already have the temporary bulkhead ready to go. A couple of questions for the collective. This is a Spindrift 12 - Cat Rig. From looking at the pictures and the plans there is a beam/stiffener at the top of the forward bulkhead. It is located on the bow side of the bulkhead. Should I attach this to the bulkhead before I go 3D? I couldn't tell how wide the beam needed to be so I made it 3" wide. Is that right? Width doesn't seem critical here but I wanted to check. Last question, I am assuming that I should be using epoxy to glue the stiffeners in place. Would it hurt to help secure them with some brads? Or is it better just to use clamps and epoxy? Thanks, Craig

Well I was able to correct the misalignment without having to compromise on the correct shape of the sides. I now have 2 perfectly matched side panels. Now to glue up the bottom panel without screwing them up. ;D Craig

I will be there Friday - Sunday. Craig

I found some 6 mil heavy duty plastic at the big box store. I glued the two side pieces together using the butt joint. I got a nice glassy smooth finish with the heavy duty plastic. But I might have a problem. I did not heed Graham's advice to use some finishing nails to keep the pieces from moving during the clamping process, consequently I have a small gap. Is this going to be a problem? Potential weak point? Misalignment during assembly? I can see where it would throw off some of the measurements. I have not cut the sheer yet, I was going to do that after the glue up. I have included a picture with a penny in the picture for scale. Thanks for any help, Craig

I called the local Ace Hardware. They say they have a 4 mil product that is polyethylene. I mentioned that I was using it with epoxy and the helpful hardware man said he thought it would stick to the polyethylene. Craig

Greg, I was just reviewing your post about redoing some joints because of bad plastic. I am almost at the same point in my construction. I need to butt joint the sides and bottoms. I was going to use trash bags but now I am leary of using that. It looks like you got a much smoother finish using the "correct" plastic. Where did you get the plastic? Is it something the local big box store would have? Where should I look for it? I checked online and see something called Film-Gard. Quote from the ad says "Large sized clear heavy duty plastic sheeting ideal for crawl spaces, vapor barrier, all-purpose covering and foundation moisture barrier." It is 4 mil. Thanks, Craig

I was inspired by lbrewer's boat building enthusiasm and made some progress on the build. It helped that my son did not have any soccer games this weekend. I cut out the sides, bottoms, transom and forward bulkhead. Managed to cut some other smaller pieces as well. I am using a butt joint to join the side and bottom pieces so I need to get that setup and let it cure. I hope to make some progress on that this weekend. I recently got into using hand planes for my other woodworking projects and found the block plane a great tool for tuning the cuts made with the scroll saw. Less stressful to cut outside the line with the scroll saw and then clean it up with the block plane. Posts below show a couple of my "helpers".

Dude you are killing me here. I have had my wood for weeks and my plans for longer than that and I have yet to make a single speck of saw dust. Please tell me you are retired or independently wealthy and have tons of leisure time on your hands. ;D I do have the lines for the bottom and sides marked and I am ready to start cutting. Maybe I will get around to it this weekend. I have this company who insists I go to an office and sit at a desk for 8 hours just so they will pay me money. Man they are demanding. Good luck with your build.

Congrats!!