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greendane

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Everything posted by greendane

  1. Thanks PAR--in this case, what do you use for thickener and to what consistency? (Ketchup, Mayo, Peanut butter if I may refer to something I read recently)
  2. Here is a pic of the xynole after: 1) Wet coat 2) Fill coat 3) Fill coat In the first, you can see the texture still left. In the second, you can see the seam. I might have been able to singe these edges, and should have tried I suppose. But I had a triangular patch and cut across multiple strands. The more I handled it, the worse it got so I left well enough alone. I knocked down a little while the goo was still green. I'll hit it again once it's cured better and then add one more coat of epoxy when I apply the fairing compound.
  3. Question: since this is more of a repaint than a new job, and about 80% still has the old paint on it (see "bottom april 12" pic attached) what should I do to prep? (Keeping in mind, as I said earlier--I'm done with stripping except in spot areas as needed). I've gone over it a few times with a scotch brite pad (in a bucket of water, cleaning it out as I go), and planned to do so one more time. As I am going, there are a few issues I am not sure how to address exactly: 1) uneven paint layers. See "paint 1" and "paint 2" below. Can I (after a bit of scratching) go over this with primer to fill in some of the strokes, scratches, uneven spots? Is it ok to have the base primer, then the paint, then another layer of primer and then another layer of paint? 2) On the transitions from epoxy (where I've stripped down) to this paint job, other than giving the epoxy and fairing material a good scratch, anything else I should be aware of? I'm assuming I'll need to do a little fairing with primer along the "coastline" (you have to admit it kind of looks like a map).
  4. Don--I've put two fill coats on the Xynole and it could still use one more. Maybe two. Though they are getting less thirsty with each pass. I've got some fairing compound that I could probably use, but I'm not sure how much I'll need to fair some other parts so I'm going to let the next wet layer for the fairing compound be good enough and go from there. Not sure how Dynel compares to Xynole after paint is on it, but if you want no-skid, this stuff would work. On the other hand, regarding your first mate's backside--Xynole wouldn't feel much different than walnut shells I think. Depends on how much you soften it with fill epoxy and paint I suppose. But I'm only speculating. Very novice at this stuff. But the Xynole is rough. One thing about this project...if I were to build this boat myself, I would take more pains to get it right. Partly because the thought of a well-faired, smooth surface is simply pleasing. If I keep going, I'm never going to get it on the water. It's not going to be roll and tip smooth by any stretch unless I want to pour another 40 hours into this--most of it removing old paint and cleaning up dust. I've had enough of that. Going to cut my keel stock down to size and get it on there so I can start fairing and painting and sailing.
  5. Hi Walt. I could hardly find the cloth. Defender was the only place that had it in stock. Not sure if they had tape.
  6. Public Service Announcement: Confirmed: Xynole takes considerably more epoxy to wet out. Possibly 4X vs glass. But I'm happy with the result. Very sturdy stuff.
  7. Making headway this week. Opting to fair the front seams and ended up striping back paint all the way forward. New layer of glass now as well as tape down the center. Fill coat done on the front and will fill coat the tape tomorrow. Then some Xynole and fairing and the finally onto the keel. Not that I won't have more questions, but I'd like to say say thanks to you all. I've learned a lot and couldn't have done this as well without your generous donation of experience and time forming that experience into pixels. Much appreciated!
  8. Sorry--"toothing" please explain. Thanks.
  9. This is great Wes. Would love to see pics of how those hatch systems work.
  10. Just re-inspected. There's more compromised than I thought. So I plan on laying a second layer of glass down and Xynole over it but smaller where I anticipate a bit more wear. How long do I need to wait to put that Xynole over the fill layer of epoxy? And related--for painting epoxy--what primer should I use and prep should I do (including how long to wait. I assume a couple of weeks until it's all fully cured?)
  11. I was wondering about that. The seam is good. There was enough epoxy on it to not go through to the weave. The parts that sanded through were where the glass was on the hull. For these small parts, is it necessary to re-glass them (none bigger than a quarter)? Or will a couple of coats of epoxy together with the xynole be okay?
  12. Well...I almost deleted this post as I, as I often do, grew pretty impatient with my project. I had a stripping disk (like a heavy duty Scotch Brite pad) for my drill motor, so I went to work as light as I could. I was going to only strip about a 10 inch wide section around the seam. The first section went well but when I put a straight edge down, I could see that the dip I am trying to fill is almost a quarter inch deep and a decent fairing angle will mean filling in about 10-14 inches wide to make it gradual anyway. (A career out of using high build primer is right!). So, I stripped a lot more off but as I got going, I noticed that the epoxy was really thin in places toward the front and I went into wood without even trying. So I stripped from the seam all the way forward to the bow. I'm going to put a two coats of epoxy, followed by Xynole over a much larger section (I have two yards anyway and was originally only going to do about 10 inches either side of the centerline). Now that I'm down to epoxy, I can use the fairing compound and get at least this part faired properly. Thanks Par. I'm sure I haven't seen the end of stripping. I'll get a flap wheel and hopefully do a less aggressive job of it next time. By the time I got toward the end, the pad was "dull" enough that it actually worked pretty well.
  13. Hi All, I've got a related thread going on my keel maintenance project (link below) but this is a little more specific. I've combed the forums some but haven't found what I'm looking for. Feel free to point me the right direction if you know of something. Anyway...the keel-replacement project is growing the more I look at the bottom and on one of the seams on my Core Sound 17, there is enough unevenness to want to fair it out. However, I've trying to avoid using fairing compound because I don't like the idea of sanding down to get to the epoxy because I've found that so far I end up hitting the weave of the fiberglass and I don't want to go all the way to wood, re-epoxy, reglass, and then prime/fair/etc. If there is an easy way to strip it (latex paint) without doing that, I'm all ears. In lieu of fairing compound, I've been thinking that I could scrub enough of the paint to get down to the primer only and then put high build primer on and go from there. I'm not looking for a perfect finish--or even close. I want to get this boat ready to get back on the water. But the seam is bad enough that I prefer to tackle this much while I have it flipped over. So specifically (though I am open to a whole different approach too)... 1) What high-build primer is good for this application? Looking for specific product recommendations. Only want to buy a quart. 2) Are there better ways to remove the paint without harming the weave? (I'd be ok with fairing compound if I could get a good starting point that the compound would stick too.) I will be repainting the whole bottom with the same paint I already have since it's (a) the same color and (b) the same as what was put on originally. All of course once I am done with fairing this bit out, attaching the keel+skeg and reinforcing the bow for abrasion with Xynole. Thanks in advance. -Bryan
  14. First, is this a big enough deal to fix it? Or should I just finish my keel project, put another couple of coats of paint down and call it good? I'm not a good enough sailor to tell the difference if this ripple slows the boat. But perhaps one day I would be? Or maybe it's slowing things more than I know? I've only sailed this boat and only had it since May. Not concerned about it cosmetically.
  15. Thanks David for the link to your build blog. Great insight there. Last week I cleaned the hull to prep for glass and then the keel. Noticed a few things here and there that I may want to address but I am thinking on it. I could easily skip it this season, but eventually I may want to fix it. It does not appear that the original builder did much in the way of fairing compound. A couple of the seams are just plain bad. But I'd need to remove paint only (and not epoxy or glass) in order to get some on there and fill in the low spots (or more accurately, build up around the high spots to smooth over). Any thoughts on just doing this over the paint if I sand down to where it's more primer than color and not quite wood/epoxy/glass?
  16. Oh--and which thickener should I use? I know I'm possibly opening a can of worms here, but I just want something that will work and a link to a product would be great. I've seen this, but don't know where to start other than "not wood flour". http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/
  17. @PAR I just bent the pre-ripped 2X2 down on the hull to see how well it will bend. I will rip it soon and anticipate some of the effects I'm about to describe to diminish as the stock is reduced to 1" thick, but not entirely. There are some "high spots" along the line of the hull and consequently, when I bend it down, the keel stock bends up away from the hull. The brings up several concerns in my mind: 1) The epoxy goo is likely to get squished out too much where the pressure points are on these high spots. with not much material between the keel and the hull. Is this ok? 2) Should I build up more filler ahead of time in the gap? Or should I remove some wood from the back of the keel? Or will the screws mostly take care of all of this? 3) I was hoping to use minimal screws to temporarily clamp this down. What's the best approach for how many to put down? And what is the best way to fasten? Screw in and then back out a little so as not to squish the filler out too much? Pre-drill? If so, should the pre-drilled holes be larger than the screw shaft? I read a little here (http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?138013-Removing-screws-used-for-clamping-epoxy-glue-ups) about using screws temporarily, but my situation is a little different. Thanks in advance.
  18. @PaulSmith - When you say "on a bed of filled epoxy"--can you elaborate? Include wood flour to thicken it? And if so, how thick of a layer? I also assume I'll want to put a fillet the length of the keel on both sides. Should I put the fillet on at the same time as fastening the keel? Or will some of it ooze out and need to be filleted later?
  19. Ok. Removed the keel and tried flattening out the bed. I sanded through yomwood in a couple small spots. Ok to epoxy 2-3 layers, then glass tape the length of the keel and a few more coats of epoxy before putting the keel on? I'm going with Doug fir because that is what the local yard had. I found a nice clear 14' piece of 2x2 that I'll rip. The existing one was only an inch deep. And with the skeg it was only one more inch (and slightly narrower). Any thoughts on the making the keel larger or smaller? I don't have the plans since I didn't build it. But while I'm doing this, I might as well ask.
  20. Got the keel off. A couple questions. 1) There are screws every 2 feet or so. None corroded. Stainless looks like to me and some brass I think (copper colored where cut with the reciprocating saw). Not likely to get them out unless I dig. It seems like that would make a mess. Am I ok to epoxy over it and call it good? 2) I was going to put a layer of glass down under it but am wondering if it is necessary. I'm doing a decent job of keeping from hitting the existing glass. And the layer of epoxy that is there is pretty thick. If I can get that level, can I just put a new keel on the way? And how flat does it need to be? There are some pockets in the surface but it seems like they should fill in with the first epoxy coat? 3) looks like all the damage stayed away from the hull. Glad about that.
  21. This is what was under the "roller guards" on the skeg. I carved some back to see the extent of the bleed from the metal an screws. This is part of what made me decide to just cut it off. Which I hope to do this weekend.
  22. I might do something pretty on the bow section, but yeah, the flat SS bar might do the trick on the keel and skeg. And onlinemetals local pick up is a great idea too. Thanks!
  23. Thanks Paul. Any thoughts on using 2 pieces for the keel scarfed together? (Just thinking that I could get an 8' piece and rip it for the 3 lengths I need vs getting a 12 footer. And might be easier to find a piece with good grain all the way if shorter?
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