Phil Gowans

I have a line at the luff of the main and one on the leech which runs up through a grommet and back down that I draw down and tie off. As Ray mentioned some use a hook at the luff to hold the grommet down. I have not needed to reef very often, so I'm not too practiced at it. In fact I have only done it once with my new loose footed sail. I don't even have any pictures (if you can imagine that :roll: ). I still need a better way to tie off the lines fore and aft. A couple of weeks ago I was out in gusts of up to 30 kts. It was rather exciting. I waited a bit long to reef, but I was amazed at how well ALOHA handeled the high winds once I reefed. The steering came back, and I was able to sail much more upright and under control. Everybody ought to have a way to reef your main. Here's a picture of tying off the reef points in the middle. This is with my old sail that was laced to the boom. I kind of roll up the sail and tie it. These are slippery reef knots. The same procedure is done with a loose footed sail. This leaves the sail still loose footed. The reef points just keep the sail out of the way.

The blocks are harken micro 224s. They are quite small. I wanted to use blocks that didn't need replacing. The're only about $7 each anyway. I think the small size was one of the problems with the wire rope, but they were recommended for wire use. I used low-streach (basically no streach) line and found some rope clamps. They work really great - don't slip and easy to set up. I don't recall the size of the turnbuckle, but it is quite small too. (Translate cheaper). It is stainless and the barrel is only about 3/8 in dia. The whole thing is probably only 6-7 inches in length. Remember to use a piece wire to keep it from turning. I did have it fall apart once while sailing. That's always fun. :roll:

adla, I didn't see too many saying anything in behalf of the wheel, so I thought I would. As you can tell, I really like mine. Some have not liked theirs and have switched, but I haven't seen anybody switch from the tiller to the wheel. I must say I am very impressed with your work. What you have done, you have done very well and what amazes me is how fast you are. I did my boat before any forums existed, and there were only a few pictures. That's why I put together my web site. I spent a lot of time sitting in my moaning chair and just thinking about what I wanted and how I wanted to do it. It became an obsession. I don't think I thought about much else. I can see you are one of those obsessive / compulsive types. You're going to have a great boat, whatever you decide on this. The wheel is really pretty simple. It's one of those things people either love or hate. If you don't like it, do something you do like. Even thought I will probably not like it, BUT who cares. I hope you're doing this to please the person who matters most - #1. Just thought I'd slow you down with something else to think about. At least for a few seconds.

I have put a white dot on the king post of the wheel. As you can see it is almost straight up in this photo. When the boat is sailing along at a constant course the boat is fairly well balanced and the post is mostly straight up. My wheel turns about 1/2 turn left or 1/2 turn right. When the white dot is down I know I have the rudder fully turned. When the white dot is at 3 o'clock it is half way, etc. I don't need to look at the rudder to know where it is. The wheel tells me that. You might also notice the short rope with an eye splice on either end holding the wheel in place. I use this to hold the wheel when I need a little breather, or have to do something besides hold the wheel. It works fairly well since I can easily put it over any spoke. That's not as easily done with a tiller. I was doing it here so that I could take a picture. Johanna, I decided to use the same geometry as the Stevensons. I just don't have the adjustment outside of the lazerette. I think this makes the system simpler than the complicated method that most have used with the turnbuckle on the floor and extra blocks. The blocks are positioned where Stevensons are - over the bottom rub rail. I put in a fairlead that holds the block. It is bolted through the rub rail with two flat head machine screws so that nothing is sticking out beyond the rub rail to catch on anything.

I hesitate to post this because my opinions are just that - opinions. I really believe in the principle - It's your boat and you make it what you want. That's part of the beauty of what we are doing here. We are building our own boat. Wheel or tiller! This subject comes up periodically and you can find lots of discussion about it. I've some strong feelings about some of the issues. And even though I usually keep quite about such things, I've decided to express some of them. Please feel free to disregard them all as my opinions. At least my opinions are based on some experience with a weekender with a wheel. The weekender is modeled after the friendship sloop. As you can see in the attached photo the Stevensons did a pretty decent job of making a minatureized version of one. I doubt you will ever find a friendship sloop with a simple tiller. It just doesn't seem to fit with the design. I can conceive of an extension to the steering post that would come through the center of the cockpit and a tiller attached as on some boats. But, I can't see it ever coming over the transom and into the cockpit that way. The Stevensons had to make a lot of subtle compromises to capture the essence of a friendship sloop in such a small boat. The fact that you have a lazerette and taff rail imply that you have a wheel. To build an extension on to the rudder box and put a tiller over the lazerette into the cabin is possible, but to my eye it seems to scream incongruity. It looks like a hodge-podge addition and appears out of place. It would seem better to somehow get rid of the lazerette and extend the tiller directly into the cockpit. The high transom is also in the way, but that could be modified. It seems that the wheel is an integral part of the design. I have not seen any solutions to exchanging the wheel for a tiller that appear to work with the existing design. To remove the wheel turns the boat into something other than what it was designed. The argument is often stated that a wheel takes less room in the cockpit than a tiller. I think this is true. A workable tiller would require quite a lot of room in an already small cockpit. This mind you comes from someone that has only pictures for the experience. The wheel does require that the aft of the cockpit be keep clear of items that might hamper the wheel and you cannot practically sit with your back on the lazerette. However, I do like sitting with my back on the cabin wall and steering the wheel with my foot. To those who are used to driving a car, a wheel to the aft of the cabin appears unusual, but it is not that unusual in a boat. You don't need to see the wheel to know how to steer with it. After all you can use the tiller with it behind you. Some just prefer a tiller and can't imagine using a wheel. I can sympathize with this, since I had never sailed without a tiller before. A tiller seems like the natural way to go especially if that is what you are used to. I only had a few minutes of confusion in getting used to the wheel. Remember this is a small boat and you get an immediate reaction when you turn the wheel - if you turn it the wrong way, you are not really committed to it, a slight effort can quickly fix that. I really like the wheel for steering now. It's always where you expect it, mostly accessible anywhere in the cockpit, very responsive, gives good manual feedback, and is fairly much out of the way. It also feels good in the hand and I like the way it looks. Almost everybody that sees it is almost immediately drawn to it and comments "It even has a wheel" or "Oh, look it has a wheel". Some have heard that it a wheel takes a lot of adjustments. I have not found that to be the case. Mine has not been adjusted for 3 years. I have my own design for steering with a turnbuckle inside the lazerette that works well. I do admit to some problems with starting with and experiment of using wire rope instead of rope. For some reason still not clear to me the wire rope failed quite quickly. The biggest concession I will make is that working inside the lazerette is a real pain. But once you get it working it should stay working. If want a wheel you should start with a wheel. It's easier to setup the steering before you enclose the boat. I hope this doesn't upset anyone that has modified his or her weekender to have a tiller. You obviously did it because you wanted it that way and then it is the right way because that is the way you want it. To that I say Here, Here and I hope it is working out well. I'm glad I have a wheel and wouldn't want it any other way.

I worried about a boat name for a long time. I think it was as much work as building the boat. I like a boat name that's personal. I spent 2 years in New Zealand and love the South Pacific. A name from there seemed what I was after, but most people would not know what "Kia Ora" meant. I decided on ALOHA. Everyone knows what that is - even though in Hawaii it has a thousand meanings. To me it is my private trip to the islands, my get away. Besides, it gives my crew something to do. I tell them it's their job to yell "Aloha" to every boat within ear shot. I collected a lot of boat names and had a site with them. Many are a bit dumb: http://www.pragdata.com/philboat/boatnames.html My son thought of PFD - kind of cute. My daughter wanted BOB. She likes simple. Be cautioned about getting everybody's opinion. It can take on a life of it's own. When I decided on Aloha, it didn't please anyone. It's too late to change now. She's been christened and I made the name board. It's final - ALOHA

Barry's right on that one. I used a electric ROS to prep for painting and it was shot within a couple weeks. I looked at the manual and it said not for use with epoxy. I had it reconditioned and it lasted less than a week. I bought an air powered DA (dual action, like the autobody shops use). It was wonderful. I borrowed a portable compressor, and though it worked, the DA takes so much air the compressor could not keep up. It's a great way to sand though!

Spring, summer and fall are for boating. Winter is for boat maintenance or improvements. I try to do something each year. I haven't found any significant failures, but there is always something to work on. This year it was: - fix the stem fiberglass delamination - repair & re-varnish the rubrail dings - strip epoxy & varnish off deadeyes and cleats, refinish with linseed oil - build a burgee mount on mast - grommet the mainsail leach for easy ensign attachment - fix the cockpit grate and refinish - redo some block thimbles - make rope for lashing the steering wheel I had the boat in the garage for about a month working on the above. The most significant was the stem fix. I will eventually put up some pictures and discussion on some of these. Remaining for future: - Rope fenders - swim ladder - add more flotation - make a cockpit shade - build a cover Currently I've got the boat completely ready for water - rerigged, sails bent and gear loaded. Now, just waiting for next weekend to starting sailing season.

Last month I got to do something I've wanted to do for a long time. I was in the SF Bay area while the Lady Washington and Hawaiin Chieftain were doing a battle reenactment. I got some pictures if you're interested.

Adla, scarf your rails, just make sure you have enough overlap - 1:8 minimum. There's a lot of bending force on the rubrails. Some people have had their joints fail. I was going to suggest the same idea as Kudzu. I've not done it myself, but have heard good success that way before. Here's another picture of scuppers. Mine are quite small - I didn't want them to be seen much. Infact you can't see them on the outside at all. Even at that they don't clog. I've put scuppers elsewhere on the boat where water might accumulate and can be drained off - sometimes just a 1/4 inch hole.

I don't have any of those fancy stationary tools, just some hand power tools. I cut my rabbet with a router. This allowed me to vary the height to fit where the side panel height varied. I wanted as much side in there as possible for strength. I screwed the rails from both sides about every 9 inches, alternating offset up and down. I don't recall what size screw I used, but I used ceramic deck screws on almost all construction and used the longest that would fit without going through. Hint:If you are planning on using mahogany or other bright finished wood, buy yourself a plug cutter and a drill/countersink set for cutting the same size hole. You can cut your own plugs out of the same wood in a few minutes and the plugs look wonderful. Barry, I put in scuppers that go right under my top rail on the outside and are angled into the inside rail so that water will flow off the deck and through the scupper. I cut 5 on each side about 1" x 1/4" about every 9 inches apart. I epoxy coated them and the work quite well.

The plans call for a 1x2 (actual 3/4x1 1/2) to fit on the outside of the sides panel and a half round inside of it. I drew up this for what I did on my rail and hatches: I wanted to hide the top of the side plywood so I imbeded it inside a mahogany bender that was cut to actual 1x2. I used the same size bender inside and down to the deck. My sides did not come up equally along the whole sheer, and I don't think most people have enough above to do it so that it will look nice. By hiding the side in the rail it could vary and not be seen.

I was hoping to hear from some builders. I guess I'm about as close as you're going to get Arnie. I considered this boat, but only got as far as the model. Here's my bobcat: I think it would be great boat for kids, but I'm a little old for that cockpit. I wanted something with a real seat. I could see my knees locking up and having miles to go to dock. Building the ballest in the swing keel also made me a bit nervous, but after all I've been through I think I could handle that.

Swages are soft metal ovals that fit 2 cables. These can be "swaged" with a "swaging tool" - a device that presses the sides of the swage around the cables. This is a standard way of connecting cables and is semi permanent. It is best to make 2 pressings on each swage. The store that sold me the cable allowed me to use their heavy duty swager for free at their shop. They rent it for over night. You can buy a small one for around $10. I'm not sure what size clamp fits what size cable, but make sure they are not going to slip. Your store should be able to suggest the right size.

Don't forget to strip the sheathing where you intend to clamp. The cable clamps will slip otherwise - at least they did for me. The guy at the boat store also said that they weren't intended to work over sheathing. I decided to avoid the problem and swage.

Tyler, I think the ties would work where forces are gentle - perhaps on the sides. However, in areas like on the transom to bottom joint, I had my steel wire breaking until I got some heavy gauge wire. There is a lot of tension holding those pieces together. John, All the reading I did indicated problems with wire removal. I decided to avoid all that by tacking the pieces together with a dab of glue between each wire tie, wait till it was solid enough to remove the wire and fillet the whole thing. It seemed to work fine. The tape I used was the 24 oz. biaxial tape. It is really heavy stuff and requires a lot of epoxy to wet it out. I used it inside and out. I had some extra left over and used it to beef up the bottom of the keel. I have had some problems there with delamination that I believe is due to not enough epoxy to wet it out. This has been a winter project. I'll have some pictures and discussion eventually. I don't recall if I used fiberglass in the inside of the sides or not. The bottom I glassed both surfaces. Here is a picture that shows what the stringerless joints look like. Lefty, The paint is holding up really well. I hoped it may last for maybe 5 years before redoing it. By keeping it out of the sun I think it will last longer. Of course you have to do little touch up jobs. You can't expect a boat that is used to go without some dings. The most effort in maintenance goes to the varnish touch up especially on the rub rails. I must admit that varnished mahogany rub rails are a bit silly, but they still look pretty good.

John, You know you owe us some pictures.

I started this post saying that "I believe I'm still the only one who claims to have built a stitch & glue weekender, at least around these forums. I guess as the expert :wink:, I ought to comment." Unfortunately my post was interrupted by my having to do some work at work. How inconvenient! Before posting I saw John's post. It's great to have some company. I didn't realize there was someone else out there in the experimental zone. Stitch and glue works fine on a weekender. It should be noted that I didn't use the technique everywhere it could be used, e.g. on the seats. But on the hull, I think it offers some advantages. The inside of the hull is much easier to clean and sponge out without the chine logs. Having no screws in the hull was one of my concerns, sailing here in the Great Salt Lake. I don't see why you think it would be much more expensive. Biaxial tape and epoxy isn't really that expensive. Along with stitch and glue I scarfed all major surfaces, i.e. the bottom and sides. This also gets rid of a lot of butt plates and makes the stitch and glue easier. You need to realize if you want to try Stitch and Glue there will be a number of assembly differences that you must consider thoroughly before you start. First of all you might want to read Devlins book: "How to build any boat in Stitch & Glue". Some differences are that you must do the bottom to side joint before the top is in place. Putting the top on last changes the way some things fit together. As Barry stated I had some issues with my scarfed sides fitting, because I didn't realize that the joining angle for the side scarf is indeterminate, not 90

Wayne, That's an interesting site. I'm familiar with Ruapehu, I lived in Taupo in back in 1967. It would be quite a challenge to sail. That's the trouble with most of the highest lakes that he has listed, they're not too accessible. His list doesn't include any in the United States on that list, but has a separate site for them: http://highestlake.com/highest-lake-usa.html#Pacific He lists 14 lakes over 12,800 ft. When I started sailing Utah, I made a list of all lakes with boat launch facilities and have been crossing them off. I've still got lots to go. If you want to check it out it's at: http://www.pragdata.com/philboat/Utlktbls.htm As far as the winds here, I suppose you are right they should pack a bit less of a punch. I know we have quite a bit lower boiling point here. One interesting thing about the Great Salt Lake, the density of the water is so much higher than normal water it can throw you around a lot more than most sailing, especially on the "pink side".

This is ALOHA on Strawberry Lake in Utah at 7600 ft. with some neighbor kids back in 2001. We've got lakes higher than that in Utah, but most of them are small and or hard to get to. I've wanted to sail on Fish Lake for some time, but havent made it there yet. It's 8900 ft. I'll have to try harder. I hadn't thought that I was setting any records, just sailing around home. I guess Utah is higher than a lot of places. I just checked and the lowest lake ALOHA has been on is the Great Salt Lake at 4200 ft. In fact the lowest lake in Utah is over 2300 ft. I would imagine that there are some boats on higher lakes in Colorado.

I started with the designed arrangement with a cleat at the top of the rudder box. As you can see I replaced that with a quick release jam cleat as used on catamaran kick up rudders. I can lock the rudder up or down. If I forget to raise it, it will do so on it's own. I haven't found that it has damaged the rudder much at all. It works fine and with no weight in the rudder it will ride out almost horizontal when not locked in vertical. I seldom lock it up, but need to lock it down. I can pretty much forget about it. It even steers reasonably well when it is up.

Looks like a Bolger Light Schooner. See HH Payson Site: http://www.instantboats.com

Thanks all, for the kind commentary. I don't intend to take the site down. It's been a lot of work to put up and to keep up. Originally, it was my intent to help others with pictures, but that was back when construction pictures were hard to find. I use to get periodic emails from people who were finding my site useful. Now there are lots of great pictures available and I seldom get comments anymore. But perhaps, I'm getting emails now that I can't find due to all the SPAM. :x Nowadays I keep the site up for my own enjoyment and if others want to see what I'm up to they are welcome to join me. Bill, you should have an email with all the attached files. I'm glad to see all those pictures of the great models. I think they are a great way to learn about boats and they look so good. :salute: