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Scott Pettigrew

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Scott Pettigrew last won the day on June 24

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  1. I'm adding my experience with the two-part urethane as it might help someone in the future. As Jeff mentions in his book, getting the mix right is critical. I've applied gallons of two-part epoxy and never had any trouble, but the urethane is much more sensitive to having too little of part A, the hardener. After applying 3 coats to the hull and waiting 72 hrs, the urethane was still slightly tacky. To remedy the situation, I mixed up one more batch but went slightly heavy on part A, roughly 4oz of Part B to 2.5 oz of Part A. This did the trick, and the urethane fully cured in about 24 hrs. I think what happened initially is that a disproportionate amount of Part A was remaining inside the measuring cup because it's more viscous that Part B. When I flipped the boat to do the deck, I measured a smidge higher on the Part A and also used a stir stick to scrape the inside of the cup and make sure I removed as much as reasonably possible. Lesson learned: Measure carefully. Get all of the stuff out of the measuring cup. And if you are going to err, err on the side of too much Part A.
  2. Looks good in the photo. Not so much in person. Not sure I'll go with this finishing method again. Need to see how it ages. I used burnt sienna pigment, which has the unintentional result of looking like varnished okoume.
  3. I'm applying the two-part urethane today. It's a long story, but I previously paid for the Cape Falcon Kayak course and decided to use the skinning and coating method recommended by the proprietor of that company. My skin is thus 840 X-TRA Tuff Ballistic Nylon, covered by the two-part urethane that I colored with rare earth pigment. I also did the lacing system where you tighten up the skin before actually stitching, and then after stitching everything, hose down the entire boat. When it dries the skin is super tight. Looks wrinkled in these photos, which are before I soaked it. Not sure if I like the pigment infused urethane approach. Doesn't look the greatest, but I'm sure once it's in the water I won't care.
  4. This is an old thread, but I have a urethane question I didn't see addressed. Can you apply a coat of urethane over a fully cured coat? I know with epoxy this is a no no without sanding. I'm think that even after 3 coats I may want to come back and do some touchup. Will a new coat adhere if the underlying coat is fully cured? I'm using the 2-part urethane from the Skin Boat Store.
  5. Kudzu is right about the scarfing. I used scarfing to make deck beams out of cutoffs I had laying around. Here's a tip that might help. My side deck beams were too pointy where they met the laminated beam (red circle) and pushed on the skin. I didn't realize it until sewing up the skin, but was able to reach in and sand them down before fully tightening up the fabric.
  6. I'm with Dave. I would try and replace the wood with a solid piece. I do use penetrating epoxy, but as a pre treatment for new wood. Not to fix rotted wood.
  7. No, I have not, but if you want to try brass I found a supplier with good prices. https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/brass-half-oval
  8. I've done some woodworking when I had no place to do it but a parking lot...it is a challenge. A good jigsaw and blades designed to cut plywood do make a difference. I would not try and cut them to the finished size, but cut them slightly on the small size and then use a flat file to fine tune once you get your keel and other pieces cut; that way you'll have a nice snug fit. Regarding the edges, using the trim router should be easy to learn, and once the bit is adjusted properly is fairly hard to screw up. Good luck!
  9. It's difficult for me to estimate build time because I break it up over many months, sometimes going weeks doing nothing. This is partly due to my work schedule that has me on the road for much of the year. However, one thing I know for sure is that skin on frame using the Kudzu method is faster than strip built, stitch and glue, and "traditional skin on frame kayak building, all of which I've done. I think the other factor that will affect build time is the tools you have. Necessary woodworking skills are rather minimal, but could also slow you down. Why is cutting out the frames taking so long? Are you using a coping saw? For me, I'd say cutting out the frames was a couple of hours, but I have a bandsaw . Cutting the keel, gunwales, and stringers about another hour, but I have a table saw and planer . Scarfing and gluing up those pieces was maybe another hour. Let them dry for one day. Putting the frame together with bungy cords was quick - < 1 hour Tapering the gunwales and stringers ends with a hand plane was maybe a couple of hours. Lashing took me the longest time. I did it over roughly two weeks, with the the goal of doing one frame per day. This took at most one hour each lashing session. For my coaming, I laminated multiple thin strips of white oak, waiting for the glue to dry between strips; this took about a week. Getting ready to skin now, which I'm guessing will test my sewing skills.
  10. Ones motivation for reducing boat weight should be considered. For me, I want a boat light enough that I can single-handedly mount it to the roof of a car. The last boat I built, a stitch and glue canoe made with 1/4" okoume, came in at 80 lbs. Too heavy to easily lift over my head, but it's great once it's in the water. For me, wether my Vardo is 30 or 35 lbs is inconsequential considering my current fitness level. Maybe when I'm older I'll think otherwise.
  11. Thanks. I don't know if anyone has told you this before, but I started to build one of the "traditional" style skin on frame kayak's with the steam bent ribs. Not only is steam bending by hand more art than science, but as I talked to the designer he started saying things like "if the distance from rib "X" to the deck beam is off by a 1/4 inch your boat will either be too tippy or not perform well." I wasn't loving either the process or the fact that after all that work the shape of my boat might be off spec. For the first time in my woodworking life I stopped a project midway...then I ordered your plans for the Vardo. The other frame is still sitting in my basement. Maybe one day I'll finish it, or perhaps it will become firewood. Here's the unfinished project.
  12. I appreciate everyone that posted pictures of their projects and finished frames. They helped me immensely. Here are some of mine. The spring clamps came in handy when positioning the stringers on the frames because of the one-handed operation. I also found adjustable bungy cords very effective.
  13. I built my Vardo out of Fir Plywood, specifically Roseburg 1/2" AB Sanded Marine Plywood. I know it's not the best marine grade plywood (I previously built a canoe out of Okoume), but being in Kansas marine grade building materials are not readily available and shipping is not cheap. The Fir was available from my local big box store. As I was making the floor boards I remembered that I had some left over Okoume so decided to do a weight comparison. Each Fir floor board came in at 596 grams, and the Okoume was at 422 grams. The difference of 174 grams is about 6 ounces or 12 ounces for both boards. That's a 29% weight savings... rather significant. I estimate that building all of the boat frames out of Okoume would have thus saved a few lbs. Okoume is also higher quality, fewer voids and such, and prettier once oiled. I don't think the extra weight will make much difference, but it's food for thought for my next build.
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