vttramper

Never heard of them, but they look perfect for what I need!

Hi Jeff Thanks for the quick response - somehow I missed it until tonight! The videos are helpful, and bring back the time I spent stitching up my Ravenswood a few years ago. I actually found that whole process very relaxing. Go figure. My current project is a canoe, however, so I'll just plan on working the fabric as taut as I can while I do the stapling at gunwales. The bow and stern may be a little tricky, but from the ironing work you show at the end of the Shad part 7 video, it looks like small wrinkles can be dealt with, with so I think I'll be OK. Thanks again for your help! Steve

I have built several boats with the old 8oz fabric and had good results heat shrinking the skin. The new 9oz fabric is described as having less shrinkage and "should be sewn tight". Should I plan on sewing pockets at the ends and stretching the skin onto the frame (as with nylon)? Thanks Steve

Just launched my Ravenswood this weekend. Both my wife and I are very impressed. It is surprisingly stable, faster than expected, very nimble and handles wind and 1-2 foot waves nicely. No appreciable weathercocking in 10 mph winds and following seas were no problem. Overall a very nice boat to paddle. This has immediately become my go-to single boat. (Not in the least because at 20-ish pounds it is really easy to lift onto the car top!) Now my wife thinks she wants one too...

One complicating issue is that the location of the pilot holes is in part dependent on the location of the keel-bow (or stern) connection - that is, you don't want to find that you pre-drilled a screw hole directly over the lashing or over the meeting point of the two frame pieces. I speak from experience, having pre-drilled a laminated wood stem at nice even 5 in. intervals only to find a hole located directly on top of the joint. (Oops - measure twice, drill once!) Anyway, this will vary from boat-to-boat and supports the approach described by Jeff: "...put in one screw at the beginning. Then bend the strip into shape. It will not be perfect but it is close. Then I take it off, mark for screw holes and drill and counter sink it." That gives you an opportunity to also mark exactly where you DON'T want to drill. Works for me.

I checked my boats (Ravenswood + 2 other SOF and 4 strippers) and the laminated wood stems I have made are all about 2 ft except in one unusual case - a 16 ft canoe with a recurved bow - that need about 30in. So, for me at least, the shorter lengths would be good.

Cross country skiing in the Green Mountains this morning - you guys don't know what you're missing!

The "snow trial" pics were taken before we got another 10 inches of snow yesterday. And there's another 3 expected tomorrow. Actually though, in contrast to you folks in the south, we have have gotten less snow in VT than we often get by this time in the winter. In any case, it will be a while before I'll be doing any paddling!

Thanks all. That Maori fishhook is called a hei matau and is intended to signify strength, good fortune, and safe journeys, especially over water. Seems appropriate. I have done the same thing as an inlay with wood strip boats, but lashing it on just seems right for the Ravenswood.

What a beauty! I wish I had the skill (and patience) to do that paint work.

Hi all, These winter project Ravenswoods seem to be popping up all over! It's going to be a while before sea trials up here in VT, so snow trials will have to do: Final weight (fully fitted out): 26.5 lbs From the construction log: Setup, initial wood work - 23 hrs Lashing, finishing frame - 29 hrs Skinning, painting, fitting out - 28 hrs Total exactly 80 hrs. I can't match Pickman's paint job, but every boat needs a personal touch, in my case a Maori influence: I am very pleased with the Ravenswood design and the whole construction process. This is my third SOF but first of Jeff's designs and I can't say enough about the difference a good design makes. Now I just need the ice to melt up here. Oh yeah, and for those new float bags to appear in the Kudzu store. Meanwhile, back to the cross country skis for a few months. Cheers, Steve

Nope, not behind the seat. And max flotation/filling-of-space is my objective in float bags so largish sounds perfect.

Here you go: 1. AROUND the boat behind the cockpit coaming: 54.5 in. 2. AROUND the boat at the frame at the end of the foot rests: 47.5 in. I'll be watching the Kudzu store for the float bags!

That's a beauty - love the logo. The paddles on the Adanac website look very nice - did you go with a shouldered model? I have never used a Greenland paddle, but now that my Ravenswood is finished it seems like I should. I have a good source of WRC near me and I am tempted to pick out a nice tight grained board and try a hand at making my own. I have no expectations of being able to match the Adanac quality, however!

I test fit my Wilderness Systems spray skirt on my Ravenswood (under construction) and it works great. Don't know if it is still available tho, it is an oldie but a goodie.