Dave R1

Thanks for the suggestions. I looked at things like small coat hooks. They're too big. Door catch hardware is too thin and sharp. I thought of what they look like this morning--curtain rod brackets--but they are also too thin and sharp. Problem is, they are so tiny. As I drew them 1/2 x 1/2 by 1 1/4 inch I'm going to see if a buddy of mine can come up with some scraps of HDPE from which I could mill these on the router table. If that doesn't work, I'll use my fall back plan of 1/2" long cylindrical nylon spacers with a screw running up through the center. I don't want to do that because I think it will be ugly but I might not have any choice.

I'm looking for something like what I've drawn to use on my Weekender as hooks for some bungees for a boom tent/sail cover. Any idea where I might come up with something like this ready made? I drew them with the base being a half inch by 1.25" although the length isn't terribly critical. I'm thinking if I can't lay my hands on any before the weekend I'll make them out of aluminum angle stock.

The St. Croix is nice. You'll have a good time. Wish I could be there to watch you launch but we're heading for Lake Vermilion up by Tower. Might take the boat if I can get it ready.

Lovely John, just lovely. Where are you going to do the launching?

That's a great idea. 8) I've got access to a fiber optic scope but that requires at least one hand if not two to operate and wouldn't be very good for something like you were dealing with. I never thought of using one of those cameras.

I suppose you would have made me come down there and repair it if you'd done it wrong. I fixed the drawing so you can save the new version and get rid of the old. By the way, It's a good thing you aren't going to name your Weekender "WEEKBLOODYENDER". The transom isn't wide enough for a name that long.

Because I'm a dope and didn't check the plans and somewhere, someone said 95

Have you tried contact paper (shelf liner)? It comes in all sorts of colors. You could even get that butcher block pattern. That would be unique.

Just apologize to her in the morning and then again before going to sleep at night. That's a great looking name board. It will be fun to see it on the boat.

I quit because it gets hot wearing a motorcycle helmet in the house.

Looking forward to seeing that one launched. You really ought to come up with a better name for her, though. Round Stern. That's almost like calling your wife "Fatty". :shock:

Very nice, Mike. I should know what it is but I have CRS. looks like she's almost got a bone in her teeth.

Adla, is your dog available? She looks like she'd be a friendly and mostly uncomplaining companion.

Thanks for the pictures. It does look like a cool place to to hang out. Now, I'm thinking when the wind dies down you ought to be out looking to land "George".

Wow! How many weekenders have we had lsee their first launch this year? Great job there Brit. Looks first rate.

Adla, I seem to recall in reading about the process of making dacron sail cloth that a number of steps come after the dying process so I don't know what would happen if you try dying it now. Why don't you take some scraps and try it. I've heard of wood stains being used to dye synthetic 3-strand rope. Maybe that would work on dacron, too. Or are you thinking some sort of orange and green tie dye sort of thing? By the way, I don't think I told you but I like your tiller and the rest of your boat. You know we'll be expecting you and the rest of yuor privateers to join us for the next messabout on Lake Pepin. It would give you a chance to sail where you can see trees.

Garry, I haven't tried it for that but I expect it could be done. The sandbox tool only works in the Z-axis so you'd have to lay the hull on its side to start with. You'd do a half hull. Then stand it up, copy and mirror the copy. I suppose with buttock lines as contours, you could do pretty well.

Thanks for those pictures, Adla. It still looks like fun to me. Were yours the only boats out there?

Yes, it should give you the correct angle for the bulkhead and that determines the angle of the mastbox. It was my pleasure, Shane. Glad to see you around here and the other place again. Get well soon. Jo and the hoons are still in my thoughts and prayers, too. Dave

Here you go. Most of the dimensions aren't critical. Just use a handy piece of scrap. I show the jig transparent so you can see the opposite side. I gave it a couple of "ears" so it can be clamped to the bulkhead. Notice I show the gauge part of it shifted so that an edge aligns with the center line of the bulkead. It would also align with the centerline of the bottom panel so it should make it easy to square things up. the notch in the bottom is shown 5" wide. Basically you need to cut away some of the material so that the jig doesn't tough until you get the equivalent of the depth of the mastbox from the bulkhead. The notch probably doesn't need to be as high as I've drawn it but it needs to clear the stringer that goes across at the front of the bulkhead. Click on the picture to get the big view.

It definitely does look like fun. Thanks for posting, Adla, but I think you owe us a few more photos. I didn't get out this weekend but I did have the cover off the boat yesterday. I even got a short nap in the cockpit in the afternoon. I did manage to make my first Turk's head for my steering wheel.

Shane, when I get home this evening I'll wrok out a dimensioned drawing and post it for you. Cheers. Dave

Garry, it would probably be a good idea to hijack this thread. I'm using a program called SketchUp. It's not really a CAD application but it's an excellent 3D sketching tool. I use what they now call V5 Pro which is not free. Google bought the company and released a cut down version called Google SketchUp (GSU). You can do most things with it but output is limited to screen resolution images. The Pro version can output extremely high res images as well as other formats to go directly to something like AutoCAD or to rendering software. GSU is also limited to personal use but that would probably work for you. Give the free version a try before you buy the Pro version. You might find it does what you need. Hint: when you get ready to start a drawing, go to Window>Model Info>Units and set precision to 1/64" and uncheck Enable Length Snapping.

Thanks Jake. It's probably over engineered but it seems pretty much bullet proof now. It's really quite simple and not very expensive to make. One nice thing about having the hatch in the center is that if the steering ever does fail, I can remove the cover and steer the boat by the stub tiller.

Thank's Frank. Maybe I should patent it. Actually, would there be any value in making a dimensioned drawing and posting it in the FAQ or something?