cs

How many did and how many did not put them on their weekender? Chad

Starting to make good progress with"Fred". My color schem may be a little unusual, but I think I like it. The hull and deck is blue with a hint of gray. The space between the rub rails and the cabin sides are red. The interior of the cockpit is gray with white details. The inside of the cabin is white. All trim is white oak finished clear. I've still got a lot of little projects to do. There is finishing up the rudder and attaching it (I've decided that I want the tiller). I need to finish the grab rails on top of the cabin and build that hatch. I need to build a hatch in the lazzerete, and than I can start looking at rigging. Chad

First look at my slat seats. Chad

The plans call for drilling a hole through the keel, installing a eye bolt for the rudder and than covering the hole back up. Instead of drilling a hole to install an eye bolt and than haveing to cover it back up, I was thinking about using a lag eye bolt instead. Do you think a lag eye bolt would work? Chad

Maybe by this weekend I will have some photos for you. I'm doing that with my weekender. I started by putting a cleat on each side and than a vertical brace at the mid span. The slats will be 3/4 x 7/8 white oak. They are cut and routed and I hope to get them installled this weekend. Chad

Cool Video. Do you mind if I link those videos on another site? Chad

I was noticting the other day that where the gaff jaws will ride on the mast is shown as square. I made my mast this way, do you think it will cause a problem or did I skip over the part in the plans where it said to round the mast? Chad

Yes I will be laying it out just like shown in the plans. The plans called for 2" stock and I want to use the white oak, but had none in 2". All I had was 1", so today I corrected that problem. Cost me more than I wanted, but alas I wanted it. Chad

Well, I'm back. Ended up having to get a little over 3 board feet (cut off pile) @$4.60 a bf. Ended up costing $17.25, but I can know make my gaff jaws. Chad

Thanks. So a piece of 7/4 white oak 2' x 6" will work. Chad

Real quick. I'm at work and want to go at lunch to get some 8/4 white oak for the gaff jaws, but I don't have the plans in front of me. Can someone quickly give me the rough dimensions of the jaws so as I can get enough material. Chad

I hand't read about the messabout until you guys posted it here. Are the dates 30 Sep - 1 Oct? If so, I can't make that. I've got drill that weekend. Even though I may have to drive right by you guys on my way to South Pittsburg, I will not be able to make it. Tell you what though if by chance I do get some free time Saturday I will see. As it stands right now I have to spend all of Saturday at the ranges in Catoosa County and I will not be at the armoury in South Pittsburg. As I get closer to the weekend and formulate a plan for the battery I will have a better idea. Chad

I really doubt it. There are still a lot of little projects that need to be done. I would like to get it in the water this year, but I"m not holding my breath. Chad

I've started throwing some paint on my weekender. I already had some paint on her and had decided on the color scheme (blue & gray), but after getting the deck and cabin top painted I felt there wasn't enough contrast. I've decided to go with blue, red and gray. The blue is the sides, the deck and the cabin top. The gray is the keel and will eventually be the cockpit. The red will be the space between the clear white rub rails and the cabin side. The photos below show the gray scheme before I changed my mind and the blue/red scheme. The photo with the red, the paint is still wet and still needs more coats. The flash overexposed the photo a little, so the red is more red than what it actually is. For a true representation of the red look at the canoe in the first photo. Chad

Yes it will. The reason it is not in that photo (almost embaressed to say) is that when I drilled the hole from the top it went of course a little. I had to drill from the bottom to get it straight and than fill the void with epoxy. When trying to put the eye bolt in from the top it wants to go the other way, so I have to take the eye nut off and feed it through the bottom. Chad

I had just thrown the bowsprit up for a photo op. I didn't seat the eyebolt all the way home. Chad

Running them across the cabin top looks interesting. I do wonder though if someone else is in the boat with you and you need to adjust, would they be in the way? I'll keep your ideas in mind as I start to rig, which is still a little way off, but getting closer. Chad

My local ACE didn't have an eyebolt long enough. While that may be 10" long, is that the overall length or is that the length of the shaft. In my case I needed one that had over 9" of length in the shaft. Most of the ones I saw were measured from the top of the eyebolt to the bottom. You lose quite a bit in the eye itself. I ended up getting an eye nut and threaded rod and cutting it to length. In this photo you can see the eye nut threaded rod combination. Chad

Thanks. I'll study these photos and your post more this afternoon. I know I may ask stupid questions, but this really clears up a lot of things for me. Chad

The plans show the peak halyard coming down through a cheek block on the bottom of the mast and than ran to a cleat at the cockpit. This just shows one cheek block. I assum that the peak halyard runs down around the cabin. Would it work better putting another cheek block out away from the cabin and than running back to the cockpit. Using 2 instead of one to re-route the halyard toward the outside of the boat. Chad

The mast was no problem. I bought (5) 1 x 6 Douglass Fir at the local Lowes store. Glued them up with epoxy on Saturday and shaped it Sunday. Lowes had 12' pieces and with the 4' base already made I didn't have to scarf anything. I used a chalk line and laid out the taper and ripped it with my circular saw. Being as the material was thicker than the blade cut, I had to cut it from both sides and than use the hand plane to clean up the cuts.. Once the rough shape was achieved, I used the hand plane and the belt sander to round of the top of the mast. I than used the hand plane to round the corners, giving it a not so square look. All in all an enjoyable task. Chad

Roughed in a new location for the seats which is closer to design, and it seems to work. I will look at it closer tommorow. Chad

Like I said all I have is the cleats for holding the seats on. They are only on the port side, so it shouldn't be any trouble at all to relocate them. I will look at that tonight. BTW I glued the mast up Saturday and cut and shaped it Sunday. Will start drilling the holes needed and start varnishing it. Chad

After quite thought and reflection I think I know why. I raised the seats closer to 1-1/2" higher than the plans call for. I also have them about an 1" deeper than what the plans call for. This all for the sake of comfort. I'll rethink tonight and tommorow and probably end up moving the seats closer to plans and see what happens. At the moment I tjust have the cleats for holding the slats on one side and nothing else, so it isn't an issue to move them. Chad

Something is just not right. The wheel is right. Instead of box seats I'm doing open slat seats. The seat height is maybe an 1/2" higher than what the box seats would be. They are the same distance from the sides of the boat as the what the plans call for. Holding the wheel up to where it should be the wheel would be in the seats by about 3". Did anyone else have any trouble with the wheel clearing the seats? I was kinda up in the air about whether to use a tiller or the wheel. Unless someone can tell me how to fix this, I need some ideas about the tiller. My idea is to bring it about 3" above the deck and come into the cockpit about 6" Chad