Zeroice

Well its happened. I have to sell my weekender. I live in connecticut and I have no time to use it anymore and think it would be put to better use by someone who can take it out more than I can. I am asking $2600 obo. It includes: trailer, 3.5hp 2 stroke outboard, depth finder, 2 anchors with chain leaders an line, adjustable motor mount, dacron sails, full electrical system, nav lights, trolling motor outlet near mount, etc.

I did my splash coamings using the pvc steambox method. It worked perfectly and was easy to set up, cheap to. My splash coamings were the same size pieces 1"x2" red oak. I used a empty new paint can and clear plastic tubing over a camp stove to generate the steam. I had to fill the 1GAL CAN 3/4 with water to get the 45min steam time you need for 3/4 inch thick wood but it worked a great. You can load a partial board in it by stuffing with rags at the end were the wood will be coming out of the pvc. Also make sure the pipe is well supported through the length otherwise it will sag when it get soft from the heat.

I suggest just wetting the outside part of the trunk so as to expand just that side and cause it to start bending before you put in place. Also make sure the outer lamination grains are running verticle so that the bend is not fighting against the strand of the woods fiber.

I used a boat trailer from www.harborfreight.com. It was only $279 delivered. Some assembly, but just bolting up and wiring though. I would recommend some extra box tube added to the tongue though to extend the trailer a bit so the bowsprit isn't poking the vehicle. It can handle the weight of the weekender, as it is rated for 600lb.

I used polyeruthane glue to fill these kind of gaps. It flowed int th egaps well and expanded as it dried so that it spread into the entire gap well. At the time of pouring the glue the boat was upside down. It also filled the gaps I had between the boat bottom and the keel. I've had my boat in the water a few times last year after completion and it survived a wet cold winter on the trailer outside as well with no keel delamination.

looks like something I would get in an email with the preface of " You might be a red neck if...." Hahahahah. It does look like the thing to do the job though.

The maple I used was quite hard. I remember it being difficult to round out on the wheel spoke handles. So that may be why I haven't had any trouble!

thats good to know, i'll have to check to see what I have. I'm sure with the low stern and an adjustable mount I could still use a short shaft.

I use man o war spar varnish, and it hold up nicely. But a friend I know uses tongue oil on bird houses that are used in the weather. It takes a few more coats though.

good info guys!

I used some maple. Just when i built the wheel. The wheel was built from homedepot white maple. It seems to be fine with just 2 coats of varnish on it. It doesn't apear to have any signs of weather damage or any breakdown.

Has anyone ever built their own adjustable motor mount?

I've been doing some repairs to the fiberglass by sanding off the paint and mixing some tube type 5min epoxy and dipping in my fiberglass clothe and applying like paper mache. With gloves of course. Has anyone done this or are there any thoughts as to if this is good or bad?

Welcome. Looking foward to your boat shots.

Looks very nice! You'll have a lot of nice sailing this summer to post some cruising shots. I can't wait to take mine out for the first time this season.

I believe that the tarps started to breakdown a little and a combination of wind and heavy rain made its way down the deck from the front down to the seatbacks in the cockpit and into it. Another remedy I have done is to install long 1X2 splash comings from the cabin sides to just past the back of the lazeret. ( I'll have to post the pics.) Also I installed some small homemade deck drain scuppers to drain the water off the deck. Really nothing more than some 1/4" copper tube glued into a hole I drilled from the corner were the deck meets the hullside overhang though to just out under the top rubrail with some 3m 5200.

After pulling my boat out of winter storage I noticed a few inches (5" to be exact) in the cockpit, lockers & transom compartment. After getting the boat back to my house for a few addons and maintainence I noticed a few cracks in the hull down were the bottom meets the side: one 6"long on the port chine and two smaller 2" on the stern seam. It looks as though water got in from the inside and froze to force a crack. I have already started repairs with sanding and re-glassing the affected area on the port chine. I used some left over clothe and 1.3 tubes of 5min epoxy. Boy you sure have to work quick! It looks good now and will be better with some sanding and paint over it. While I was at it though, this brings me to the point of adding drainage. I feel that it is very important to give the water some way to leave the boat because no matter how good you tarp the thing up ( I had 2 tarps covering the boat) you will have some water getting into the boat some how :? So I installed one of these brass drain plugs that can be removed and the boat tilted to the right angle and let all the water get out. I put it in the stern compartment and bedded it in with some 3m 5200. This should do it I hope. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

My trailer really doesn't have any extra room in the front or actually anywhere else with the boat on it. I was thinking of setting up a mount to put in the bed of my truck that would hold the motor at about 45 degrees or so for transport. I'm not sure that the engine would be ok set over at that angle but that would be the best I can think of. As in the diagram. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Thanks for the advise. That makes up my mind about the matter. Now i just have to decide how to transport the motor. I may either put it in the back of my truck till I get to the launch or figure some way like was mantioned to put it in the boat for the road. Thanks again.

I was thinking about trailering with a 3.5 2-stoke motor I picked up this winter. I am going to use one of these multi posion motor mounts and was wondering if any of you had experience with these. My concern is if it is ok to leave the motor mounted on the boat while I'm trailering or will this not be stong enough on the road? Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated! [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

My experience was with 3m's 3X and Norton's 3X papers. They both seemed equal in performance in the areas I mentioned above. The sanding I did was all either hand or electric orbital with these papers. Belt sanding was done with rioby belts, but these were just standard and not 3X.

I've learned from experience that good sandpaper can cut your sanding time in half. last summer when i was glassing and finishing my weekender I started off with regular sand paper and a 1/3 sheet orbital sander (great basic sander from black and decker only $16). This paper kept getting filled up, and ripped apart after just 5 or 10 min. of sanding. Then I heard about this 3X sandpaper (sometimes called sandblaster paper) from a friend doing some home renovation. So I tried it out. I thought it was expensive because in a pack you only get 3 sheets! What I came to learn was the 3 sheets in the pack out lasted 20 or more sheets of regular paper. It was great stuff! I will no longer work with any thing else, this stuff even is good for shaping with just this basic vibrating sander. It saves time in a few ways: 1. Sands anything down much faster. (bondo, fiberglass,wood) 2. It doesn't fill up with material (even residual fiberglass resin is tough to gum it up) 3. Much time is saved in, not having to change out the paper very often. 4. Not as much time cleaning up sandpaper scraps from the work area. All in all I highly recommend it! Has anyone found this to be the case for them?

I've been working on some dacron sails that I'll be using this year. The main is almost done I just have to install the gromets and maybe some reef points. The jib just needs to have the tabling and grommets installed. I have also decided to put in a splash combing that runs the length of the cockpit, I tried out some steam bending and have 2 1x2 red oak pieces bent for the job. I plan to put in some scuppers for the deck were the water collects at the front of the cockpit through to just below the top rubrail with some copper tubing and epoxy. To finish of the things to do for the first over night I am working on a cockpit tent that is made with flexible fiberglass tent poles and white poly tarp snapped to the bottom of the top rail. This should give me the needed room for the porta-potty and storage overnight and keep everything dry.

I searched through the stacks of lumber for the clearest 16ft 2x4 I could find at home-cheapo and ripped 3/4" strips. I stained and varnished them. They look good considering what i used. It took a little bit of sanding to smooth them up but was quick work with a belt sander. This is the least expensive way to get doug-fir rubrails that i know.

I would still love a messing about calender.