question from CS 17-370 Peggy-O

[LennieG]

This is going to sound like or be like a rookie question, but it's driving me nuts. It regards my drill....I bought a Dewalt 20 V expensive cordless drill about two months ago. Well, the simplest of tasks.....like sinking a 1 5/8" Sheetrock screw thru a "clamp pad" , pre drilled, (in other words, 2x2" piece of 1/4 ply) thru marine ply, into a stringer (d fir), and then after cure, back out.....ought to be the simplest of tasks......but about 50% of these become a chore. Either the screw doesn't move, it all spins like crazy or nothing happens. I change torgue, settings, bits, batteries etc to no avail.

Something is not right....too much drill for the task, wrong screws, pads or I am holding my mouth wrong....

Thoughts?

[Jim Stumpf]

Hey Lennie,

Not really clear as to what your problem is as stated but a few things to think about.

 

If you are backing screws after using for clamping pressure sometimes they become glued in place by the epoxy, applying a little heat (soldering iron) will loosen the epoxy so that you can back the screw out. Be careful also as it is possible to break the screw while installing or removing, this will cause the head to spin and never move the shaft in or out, this can be a bugger when trying to remove clamp blocks.

 

When screwing pieces together  through your clamping blocks, pre-drill  a hole that is slightly larger than the screw in the block so that the screw does not thread through the clamp block. If the screw threads through your clamp block and then threads through your work stock if there is any gap in between the two pieces the screw threads will keep the pieces form pulling up tight.  

 

Spring for a box of screws with a better head than your standard #2 phillips (drywall screw), use torques or square drive all readily available at your local big box store sold as decking or structural screws. Less breakage and less cam out of the heads.

 

Back off the clutch on your driver, over driving short screws into your stringers will cause them to hog out the screw hole and cause spinning.

 

Use a tapered pilot with counter sink for the screws that will stay in place. Trying to set a screw head without a proper  counter sink will cause the screw to hog out the hole also.

 

I have used Dewalt 18 v screw guns professionally for years  and I am guessing that some fine tuning of your technique will yield better results.

 

Hope this helps and good luck with your new build,

 

Jim

[LennieG]

Jim-

Thank you very much!! I think you hit the nail on the head more than once, no pun intended. I'll try to attach a photo from today which will illustrate one of your points. Generally I am running into problems when using pads as clamp pads but it is not only then. I assumed I should pick a drill bit slightly smaller than screw.....you helped so much. I hate to be the guy that returns a tool to Lowe's two months later. With your suggestions I should be good.Today there was no glue involved, but there is a gap, for reasons I think you've stated.....

Thanks thanks thanks

[PAR]

Yep, the threads can get glued into the hole. If I have a bunch of screws to back out, that I know are likely glued, I'll use a regular screw driver, but heated to glowing with a torch. I use this to break loose the glued in fasteners by hand, then go back with the driver. You can also heat up the driver bit, while using it in the drill. The tip you use in the driver also can play a big role. Forged tips hold up better. Ribbed tips have better grip. Square, star, torx, etc. tips have more control, but cost more.

[LennieG]

Thanks much!