Laying the deck

[Maria CS20 104]

Hey All, I am working on the deck and doing all I can to pre-form to the curve of the deck beams as I do not want any hard fasteners like screws or brads marring the surface. I saved the best of the 11 sheets of 1/4 inch for grain consideration and it is beautiful. I currently, like right now have the starboard side forward deck 4x8 (plus) laying on the deck beams clamped along have a variety of weights pulling it to form around the beams and sides. I plan to cut 1/8" wide of the marks and sand down to meet the sides. Here now is the question, " When gluing down in place with thickened epoxy, I guess is the right approach, What is the best way to secure while the epoxy cures and glues the beast in place? I am thinking some clamps, straps and weights similar to what I am trying to do to form the 4x8 sheet. I will over cut by at least an 1/8th of an inch and sand to the hull size both port and starboard. Prefer your input before I cut the sheets as this is the last step. Should I wet the 1/4" plywood during forming to get a better bend to set in on the sheet? I want to minimize the sanding on the deck surface to minimize the deformation that will show up as a result of uneven sanding. So far, the weighting of the sheet shows that I am really close on the angles of the beams and it all seems to be setting well and firm on the structures in place. No one but me will see the corruption on the bottom (ripples and dents from over sanding etc.) but I really want the deck to be as perfect as I can make it. I will crawl into the forward compartment Sunday (tomorrow){we went to church this afternoon}to see where the plywood sheet sits against the beams, if adjustment are needed we can get that done quite easily. I have used a straight edge and a flexible flat that indicates I am very close all around at the contact points where the forward deck sheet sits. Any input will be highly appreciated and trust me, this request is begged for by those that have gone before on this critical step. The top deck is to be "bright" and the grain is too amazing to be lost under paint, cool swirls and twists with some zebra like stripes in the mix. You guys are the wizards and I need your HELP.

Thanks All.

Jim

[Designer]

Hey All, I am working on the deck and doing all I can to pre-form to the curve of the deck beams as I do not want any hard fasteners like screws or brads marring the surface. I saved the best of the 11 sheets of 1/4 inch for grain consideration and it is beautiful. I currently, like right now have the starboard side forward deck 4x8 (plus) laying on the deck beams clamped along have a variety of weights pulling it to form around the beams and sides. I plan to cut 1/8" wide of the marks and sand down to meet the sides. Here now is the question, " When gluing down in place with thickened epoxy, I guess is the right approach, What is the best way to secure while the epoxy cures and glues the beast in place? I am thinking some clamps, straps and weights similar to what I am trying to do to form the 4x8 sheet. I will over cut by at least an 1/8th of an inch and sand to the hull size both port and starboard. Prefer your input before I cut the sheets as this is the last step. Should I wet the 1/4" plywood during forming to get a better bend to set in on the sheet? I want to minimize the sanding on the deck surface to minimize the deformation that will show up as a result of uneven sanding. So far, the weighting of the sheet shows that I am really close on the angles of the beams and it all seems to be setting well and firm on the structures in place. No one but me will see the corruption on the bottom (ripples and dents from over sanding etc.) but I really want the deck to be as perfect as I can make it. I will crawl into the forward compartment Sunday (tomorrow){we went to church this afternoon}to see where the plywood sheet sits against the beams, if adjustment are needed we can get that done quite easily. I have used a straight edge and a flexible flat that indicates I am very close all around at the contact points where the forward deck sheet sits. Any input will be highly appreciated and trust me, this request is begged for by those that have gone before on this critical step. The top deck is to be "bright" and the grain is too amazing to be lost under paint, cool swirls and twists with some zebra like stripes in the mix. You guys are the wizards and I need your HELP.

Thanks All.

Jim

Jim,

Have you considered a toe rail? It gives a better foot hold and you can have fastenings around the fore deck perimeter and cover them up with the toe rail. Because there is a fair amount of bend for the deck at the bow, it is good to have some mechanical fastening as I have seen the ply peel back around the edge. In the picture there was also a fancy cover board down the center line to cover the center fastenings.

[Maria CS20 104]

I had not even thought about it and the last thing Wow it looks great as well, I can see using fir for contrasting highlights at those points. I do not want any peel back, I can picture that as a bad bad disease. Yer great, thanks again Graham.

Jim

[Maria CS20 104]

I had not even thought about it and the last thing Wow it looks great as well, I can see using fir for contrasting highlights at those points. I do not want any peel back, I can picture that as a bad bad disease. Yer great, thanks again Graham.

Jim

[Maria CS20 104]

Graham and All, how close should I space the fasteners around the bow to hold down the deck ply sheeting? I was looking at 3 inches until half way down the sides and then to four inches on the bow pieces. I was going to go to every 8 inches along the side decks as there is very little curve that will buckle the ply. I am geting ready to pre-drill the holes and slightly counter sink them to avoid divots around the screwheads. Any thoughts?

Thanks

Jim