Spraying System Three Primer

[cdunc]

I have just started priming the outside of the hull for my S12.  I am using the Yacht(haha) primer from System Three.  I initially tested the viscosity of the Part B and found it to be too thick for the sprayer.  But once the part A and part B were mixed it is much thinner.  I did add some water to thin out the primer but I am wondering now if I should have.  The primer is running.  This could be due to my lack of experience with HVLP.  I was wondering what other people's experience is with spraying system three primer.  Did you thin it?  Any tips?

Thanks,

Craig

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

I thin mine.  Here is my recipe;

8 oz paint

2 oz epoxy

2.5 oz water

1.5 oz rubbing alcohol

You gotta go light or it will run.  This is light body paint and you may need 4 coats of primer (I did).  You can shoot back over tacky paint, so you can do multiple coats in an afternoon.  I shot 7 coats of topcoat in a weekend.

Hope this helps.

[cdunc]

Thanks for the quick response.  I will try that.  What purpose does the rubbing alcohol server over using water? 

When you say "You gotta go light" are you talking about throttling down the volume on the spray gun or more that I should not make multiple passes over the same area?

Thanks again,

Craig

[cdunc]

Good point Ray.  I was wondering that myself last night.  Since it is such a small boat (S12).  In fact I was telling my wife that it takes longer to mix the primer wait 15 minutes(Induction time) and then clean up after than it does to spray it on.  Rolling on would be a little slower but it would eliminate my current problem.

What grit do you use when sanding the primer?  I am assuming you are not wet sanding.

Craig

[lbrewer]

I usually roll the outside of the hull with primer because its just less trouble and still gives just as good a base for the finish coats.  The inside I like to spray to get around all the nooks and crannies easier.  I've usually thinned it but it seems like it has always been a super hot day when I'm painting.  I think that makes a difference.

Larry

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

For the primer I see no reason to spray it.

Well, lets see...it is faster, no rollers or brushes to clean or throw away, no roller pan to clean or throw away.  I admit that the boat insides have a higher benefit ratio than the outside.  But once you get good at it, you don't look back.

[Greg Luckett]

This thread brings up a question that I have had about spraying vs roll & tip. I have not found any advantage to spraying except on very large jobs. The time it takes to keep care of the spraying equipment, the expense,  and the application problems have always been a negative for me that outweighs the gains.

I have found the advantages of airless and air brush applications to be worth the time and cost depending on the application. The airless systems are great for rapid and deep penetration using latex, on such as fences or houses. One coat vs two or more coats. I also use an airless sprayer to apply water sealer on outside furniture and decks. I have not found any real advantage or gain while boat building. This is a choice that is made for my circumstances but I would enjoy hearing other opinions and reasons.

Sorry if this is a hijack of this thread. I could repost elsewhere if desired?

Greg.

[Greg Luckett]

I like to use the foam brushes for applying varnishs and stains, but found that a fine brush works better for tipping the top paints due to the foam brush getting tacky and then tearing little pieces that mar the finish. I have had that problem with foam rollers too, therefore not using them anymore.  I like a roller with the smallest nape I can find, and about 9 inches in length. The size of the area rolled then tipped seems to vary with the weather and type of paint too.

Ray, you point about getting into the hard to reach places with spaying is a very good one.  How do you do it with primer since you do not spray primer?  I am guessing as I do and also ruining the brush shape?

[Greg Luckett]

I have considered buying a HVLP sprayer but haven't a clue as to which one of the many to choose, and prices range from $40 to $800.  It would be good to have some suggestions of what will do the job and the money to get there that is needed.  I do not like buying cheap tools as they do not last or work well, but do not usually need the top end stuff either.

[Cricket]

Greg and all,

If you're looking for a good hvlp system, I have used the Fuji Q3 for about 6 years in my cabinet shop. It is a real workhorse. I share the turbine with my neighbor in the same spray booth (he has his own gun), and the unit is running all the time between the two of us. We spray exclusively waterborne lacquers, both clear and opaque, and so called wb pre cats, and it does a great job. I have not sprayed system 3 with it, but might well try it on the peapod that is coming along.

Jim Luton

[cdunc]

I decided to go with the roller for the primer.  I put on the second coat of primer this morning using a 4 inch roller.  On a S12 it doesn't take long at all to put a full coat on with the roller.  Took longer than spraying but not so much.  Since I did not have to thin it the coat will be thicker.  Once it dries I will be sanding to get a nice smooth surface for the system 3 paint. 

I still plan on using the HVLP for the topcoat.  I am using an Earlex HVLP system.  I was able to get it on sale at Woodcraft earlier this year.  It seems like a good deal for the casual user.  Probably not something you would use in a production shop but for an amateur woodworker and amateur boat builder it should work nicely.  I believe I paid less than $300 USD.

Craig

[bruegf]

Greg,

Apollo and Fuji are well regarded on the woodworking forums.   You might also want to take a look at the Earlex 5000.   Its gotten some decent reviews and is less expensive than Apollo and Fuji.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-45-music-to-my-earlex/

Fred

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

Fred,

Nice addition to this thread!  My Wagner HVLP system ($99) gave up recently and I think I will try one of the Earlex setups.  I think it is a good price point and looks to be a lot better than the Wagner unit.  I have been hesitant to move up to a more commercial unit.  Thinking I would just buy another $99 unit for every project.  But this looks to be a good semi permanent solution at the right price.

[bruegf]

Joe,

I've considered it few times myself, but have finally decided to hold off for a Fuji or Apollo as my primary intended usage is for spraying kitchen cabinets I plan to build in the next year or two and I really want the ability to use the 3M PPS System which wasn't available for the Earlex gun the last time I looked.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Training-Resources/Best_Practices/PPS/

Here's the Earlex site

http://www.earlex.com/hvlp.php

Fred

[cdunc]

After sanding the primer over the weekend I was able to get a single coat of system 3 topcoat on last night.  I am using the Earlex hvlp.  I started out with a setting where I was getting too much volume of paint so I throttled it back to almost nothing and then slowly opened it up.  With the volume set too high I was getting some running of the paint.  I settled on a very thin spray pattern so that it took multiple passes or very slow passes to get full coverage.  That eliminated the running but of course took much longer to coat the hull.  I am going to slowly bump up the volume to see if I can get a happy medium.  I did get one coat on.

Posting pictures of primer coat and first coat of topcoat.