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Posted

Sure scared the bejesus out of myself this weekend when I rigged my newly finished S11N with its new sail and set out for an inaugural sail on this bay in my Alameda backyard.

The boat flew across 10-15 knot breezes, but when I went for that first tack, I moved too quickly across and experienced the dreaded death roll I have heard these boats like to do. Darn near capsized it. Part of the trouble was how I rigged the traveler rope (from bolt eyes on the outside stern). The mainsheet kept hanging on the stern edges.

Several times on that first sail, I shipped water as the boat tried to capsize (only on bad tacks - it took me awhile to get the hang of it, as the main sheet kept hanging on the tiller and rudder).

So, to the group, I pose these questions:

1) Should I use Graham's hole-in-breasthook method of running a traveler to avoid hangups or is this just what happens with the boat?

2) If it capsizes, does anyone have experience with righting the Spindrift? Got hints?

3) Since I have the reefable sail with grommets for tack and downhaul, what's the best way to run those lines? Graham shows only the tack with its line snubbed from a jam cleat through the tack to the base plate. What about the downhaul? I have a black at the baseplate, put does the line best run through a fairlead thence through the grommet down to a tie off (strap eye) somewhere around the mast collar?

Thanks, Spindrifters.

Terry


Posted

I think Ray's point about the nesting version is that it cannot have the longitudinal seats running along both sides that add crucial buoyancy in a capsize. The seat arrangement is up to the builder in a nester. I added buoyancy in the stern with seats fitted to the nested bow section. I also added buoyancy with a transverse seat in the bow section.

I have only sailed my S11N a couple of times but I am very glad that I added the reef point. The standard sail area is generous in a fresh breeze. The first time I launched, I put the reef in before I started and the boat did great. Later, after gaining confidence, I shook out the reef and had a wild bit of fun.

However, the 11 footer is a small boat and things can happen quickly. I came near capsizing during a brisk tack and shipped a good bit of water. The Spindrift wallowed a little but still handled okay while I tried to maintain control with one hand and bailed with the other.

I have the reefing line run for the tack as you describe without the fairlead. I haven't used it to set the reef while on the water yet, only to shake it out. I have not had a problem hanging the main sheet up except when gibing. When tacking, there is not enough slack. Maybe the length of the bridle(?) can be shortened to keep the sheet more inboard.

Posted

I have had some practice doing turtles in Graham's boats. All of them are real easy to get back up - even the big ones. The ten will come up almost as easy as it goes over. Make sure the main sheet is free so the sail does not load up with water as it comes out of the water. Make sure the board is fully extended. If you do this quickly enough after capsize the boat will be floating high on its side with the sail slowly sinking. Grab the board and and start pulling yourself up on it to lever to boat up. Grab the gunnel as it comes within reach and push with your foot on the board. The boat will bob up. Slowly first -the motion accelerating as the water spills from the sail. First time you do it it will snap back up so quick it will catch you by surprise. The boat will round up into the wind and the water inside will steady it. Best way to get back into the (regular) 10 (if you are alone) is over the stern.( Like a canoe) I never flipped my 17 but I had to swim out once to do it for a diabetic who was in difficulties. Not counting the swim I think it took no longer than two to three min to do it by myself. Naturally, if you have to flip, try to do it in warm water. Always carry a bailer. (Chlorox scoops are cheap and wanderful) PeterP

Posted

I've only capsized once in my 11N, I was still learning and it was my first high wind jibe. I also have the extra floatation on the forward half like garry does, after the capsize she was on her side for some time and it went turtle very slow like. I got caught in the sheet and couldn't get to the dagger board right away. It was pretty much my first capsize, and righting was fairly textbook (though I did forget to point it to the wind  :P ). The hardest part was getting back in, as she still had a lot of freeboard. I tried boarding from the stern, no luck, my arm strength wasn't enough to lift 220 lbs out of the water. :D. So I boarded from the side, leg first. i think the water in the boat gave it enough stability to keep it from rolling over again.

As to the hole in the quarter knee, I really think it's the best. I used to have a horn cleat next to the quarterknee for cleating the main on  those lazy drifting days, but the sheet just kept getting caught on it every other tack on any other day, dang thing almost capsized me twice. so I took it off..

Posted

I preferred a center boom mainsheet on my Spindrift 10 which eliminated any snagging on tacks or jibes.  Also shortens the mainsheet by a lot.  Not to say that I never capsized it.  Did that twice in frostbite races against Graham some years ago.  Once was inattention and once was just having the bow submarine in a strong following wind.  And yes, I was all the way on the transom when the strong puff hit.  The force of wind in the sail just forced the bow down under the water. Would never happen unless the adrenaline is flowing high in a race.

Posted

Thanks, guys, for the insight and advice. I now feel better about the prospects of sailing more on the edge and, if capsized, recovering to sail another day. If I can convince my wife to whip out the camera, I will post some action photos.

Terry

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